I did hear that Richards Chassis had stopped doing series chassis in favour of Defender ones in greater volume. Try Paddock Spares in Matlock they used to stock them.
 
Where's the cheapest place to buy a new 2a chassis these days? Do they only do galvanised ones now?

Might be worth trying Shielder. They are in Armagh, Northern Ireland, but do free UK delivery on Defender chassis. I saw them at the LRO show, and their work looked very good, and competitively priced.
I don't know if they do series chassis, but no harm in asking. Here is an ebay link for their defender offerings.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Chassis-/112555352500
 
Got mine from Richards they told us it will take 10 weeks and £1,500 took 13 weeks in the end we haggled with them due to it taking longer than they said and got it for £1,200 if this helps
 
I don't know if I would buy a galvanized chassis myself, thought about it, but not sure I would.
My main reason would be remembering how many rotten bumpers I have replaced, and they are heavier, and probably better galvanized.
If I did, I think it would have to be etched, painted, and waxoiled inside....which I would do with a non galvo chassis, bar the etching, anyway.
My current chassis is not unlike George Washingtons axe, there's only one original outrigger, its had 2 rear crossmembers, and one front crossmember. In 35 years. Centre is original....:)
Guess my point is that a standard chassis can last pretty well if you treat it right, and mine wasn't touched in its first ten years of life. Imagine if it had been treated from new.
My old 2a, I would say that the chassis on that was better than the 3 to start off with, thicker I reckon. After all the 3 is BL era.
 
I don't know if I would buy a galvanized chassis myself, thought about it, but not sure I would.
My main reason would be remembering how many rotten bumpers I have replaced, and they are heavier, and probably better galvanized.
If I did, I think it would have to be etched, painted, and waxoiled inside....which I would do with a non galvo chassis, bar the etching, anyway.
My current chassis is not unlike George Washingtons axe, there's only one original outrigger, its had 2 rear crossmembers, and one front crossmember. In 35 years. Centre is original....:)
Guess my point is that a standard chassis can last pretty well if you treat it right, and mine wasn't touched in its first ten years of life. Imagine if it had been treated from new.
My old 2a, I would say that the chassis on that was better than the 3 to start off with, thicker I reckon. After all the 3 is BL era.
I agree, I'm not convinced galvanising is the best treatment either. For it to be really effective, the new chassis would need to be acid etched, annealed and galvenized without much time between each step. Mild steel will form an oxidised (rust) layer very quickly. You may not be able to see it to start with. If a chassis is etched and then left a while before galvanising, all you are doing is sealing the rust in. Of course this is also true of painting a bare chassis but at least you have other pre treatments available before painting.

Col
 
Just spotted these from face book LATP maybe they would be willing to quote un galvanised.
21766446_10155003755950975_4215230616499926658_n.jpg
 

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