LaxfieldLandy

LaxfieldLandy

Active Member
Morning everyone,
I’m after a little help.
My cappings on my 90 are rusting away nicely so I wish to replace them.
I’ve got a couple of questions…

1. mine are currently 2 piece, can I use the later defender one piece cappings?

2. where is the best place to buy cappings? I’ll fully prime and paint so don’t need to go for full galv.

3. what size rivets do I need and how many?

4. do I use a YRM seal on top and tiger seal or something underneath?

cheers!!
 
v8250 said:
Just buy everything from YRM including all the body to capping seals and rivet pack for installing. First rate products, very friendly and everything fits first time. Use a Tigerseal if extra sealing needed.

https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category/land-rover-defender-90/body/

https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category/foam-tapes-seals/seals/

https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category/fasteners-fixings/rivets/
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I am tempted by YRM but their galv cappings are soooo expensive!! As are their rear corners, I’ll be painting them so it’s nearly double the price to have them all galv. It would mean that it’s a job done well though…
Can never have too much sealant when it comes to an old landy!
 
A good coat of t-wash, rinse & dry, prime and paint. They'll last forever + should you come to sell those in the "know..." will be very happy knowing there's correct/quality YRM parts on your Landy.

Oh, and there's a reason why some of their components are a little more expensive...they fit right first time so make for straight forward installation.
 
I think I’m going to take the plunge and go for YRM parts. So far my list of parts is over £1000 from them alone and I’ve got all sorts of other bits I need to get elsewhere. And I still can’t decide if I’m going to go for gloss Keswick green or Satin Keswick green!
 
If you want to save some cash series 109 capping's fit [ you have to cut side strips down some. ] if you can find some that is.
 
LaxfieldLandy said:
I think I’m going to take the plunge and go for YRM parts. So far my list of parts is over £1000 from them alone and I’ve got all sorts of other bits I need to get elsewhere. And I still can’t decide if I’m going to go for gloss Keswick green or Satin Keswick green!
Click to expand...

Ha, welcome to Land Rover ownership o_O You know you want to and it makes sense...:)
 
v8250 said:
Ha, welcome to Land Rover ownership o_O You know you want to and it makes sense...:)
Click to expand...
Like you said before, if you do it properly the first time then you don’t have to do it again (hopefully!)
The issue is knowing where to stop with all the shiny new parts!
 
LaxfieldLandy said:
Like you said before, if you do it properly the first time then you don’t have to do it again (hopefully!)
The issue is knowing where to stop with all the shiny new parts!
Click to expand...

Ah, therein lies the problem many of us face...namely, when to close the wallet!:eek: If it helps, I've recently completed a total refurbishment to the whole tratter, excluding external bodywork [I wanted to keep a slightly used look...] But everything else front to back, inside out was either restored, rebuilt, refurbished or bought new. It was an expensive exercise but I'm used to rebuilding classic/historic cars.

The trick is to write an xls plan listing everything you want to do/needs doing. Price up every last component...here, with the power of the internet, smart buying can provide huge savings, often 30%+ and then add 15% for consumables :) Then prioritise the works. Logically, you may like to start with chassis, suspension, hubs/swivels, brakes...then engine/ancillaries, transmission et al. Or, just tackle the parts you want to do. One area to take a very close look at is the condition of your wiring. LR wiring is the crappiest known to man and has been the cause of many a crispy Land Rover.
 
v8250 said:
Ah, therein lies the problem many of us face...namely, when to close the wallet!:eek: If it helps, I've recently completed a total refurbishment to the whole tratter, excluding external bodywork [I wanted to keep a slightly used look...] But everything else front to back, inside out was either restored, rebuilt, refurbished or bought new. It was an expensive exercise but I'm used to rebuilding classic/historic cars.

The trick is to write an xls plan listing everything you want to do/needs doing. Price up every last component...here, with the power of the internet, smart buying can provide huge savings, often 30%+ and then add 15% for consumables :) Then prioritise the works. Logically, you may like to start with chassis, suspension, hubs/swivels, brakes...then engine/ancillaries, transmission et al. Or, just tackle the parts you want to do. One area to take a very close look at is the condition of your wiring. LR wiring is the crappiest known to man and has been the cause of many a crispy Land Rover.
Click to expand...

mines very battered on the outside but mainly straight. Just lots of different shades of green.
It’s mechanically and electrically sound now. I used to be a wiring technician for various Formula 1 teams and a few other motorsports (independent wiring house) so handy on the electrics. Already changed all the lights and fuse box etc. Plenty of other upgrades to come.
For me it’s a case of chopping out and replacing the door bottoms and doing the cappings first then a home job lick of paint this year and internal work next year hopefully.
 
How old is your vehicle? All this nonsense I read regarding ''oh, that will last a life time'' , yeah, but will the rest of your vehicle? If the old ones lasted this long, new ones will last around the same time, or, you could have them crafted out of a single piece of gun metal then fitted with heat tiles from the space shuttle, just in case.
 
nobber said:
How old is your vehicle? All this nonsense I read regarding ''oh, that will last a life time'' , yeah, but will the rest of your vehicle? If the old ones lasted this long, new ones will last around the same time, or, you could have them crafted out of a single piece of gun metal then fitted with heat tiles from the space shuttle, just in case.
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Mines a 1987 with a 200tdi fitted. So 34 years on the first pair isn’t bad going!
 
nobber said:
Keep the roof! I have an 85 and a lot of the original bits are still there, well, a few!
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I think I will as it’s got no dents etc. Needs a good clean and paint though.
I do however need a new bonnet as mine has a split corner and the frame is rather rusty!
It’s already got a new rear door, upgraded doors and 200tdi wings etc. They were all on before I bought it
 
LaxfieldLandy said:
I think I will as it’s got no dents etc. Needs a good clean and paint though.
I do however need a new bonnet as mine has a split corner and the frame is rather rusty!
It’s already got a new rear door, upgraded doors and 200tdi wings etc. They were all on before I bought it
Click to expand...

I bought mine 15 years ago as a basket case, chassis was so bad you could pull it apart with your fingers, so apart it came and back together it went. All the original bodywork is still on it apart from the doors, my bonnet has totally had it too! But I can safely say, Defenders were not built the same as these old 90's! Well, basically yes they were, but no, they werent!
 
nobber said:
I bought mine 15 years ago as a basket case, chassis was so bad you could pull it apart with your fingers, so apart it came and back together it went. All the original bodywork is still on it apart from the doors, my bonnet has totally had it too! But I can safely say, Defenders were not built the same as these old 90's! Well, basically yes they were, but no, they werent!
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I’ve done bits and pieces to mine but I really need to sort out all my bodywork before there is more rust and corrosion than metal. The chassis on mine seems to be rather solid so that’s a start. Did you paint yours yourself?
 
LaxfieldLandy said:
I’ve done bits and pieces to mine but I really need to sort out all my bodywork before there is more rust and corrosion than metal. The chassis on mine seems to be rather solid so that’s a start. Did you paint yours yourself?
Click to expand...
I used Tekaloid on mine, tought myself to coach paint. When it was done it looked pretty good, great in fact, but enamel doesnt sit well with time, it oxidised after around 6 or 7 years then just started to look very bad and the problem is you cant polish enamel paint. I wouldnt do it again. Also you have to seal it to paint over it with anything other than enamel!
When I do it again (its due) I wont use enamal again unless it have to.
152.jpg
 
mmmuttt 089.jpg
mmmuttt 128.jpg
doors 017.jpg
As for bodywork, thats a massive can of worms on a vehicle your age, it will need doing, but its a lot more than a rusty door.
doors 017.jpg
 
That looks good to me. So did you go for the proper roller and brush method?
Have a look on the Paintman website. I’m sure they’ve just started stocking something to restore enamel paint. I am tempted to use their coach enamel anyway.
 
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