Greetings.
Forgive me I am new here.
I have a question and most likely has been asked before just I have not found it.
My freelander has this new issue when starting the engine runs 2 seconds and dies. Tried again .. runs 2seconds and same story.
I've gone through every fuse every relay all is good. The fuel pump is operating normal and all electrical connections are fine. Spark plugs are new and also I've replaced the coils for new as well as the timing sensor.
It ran perfectly the previous day and the next morning it's got this issue.
Please don't make fun if this situation because I'm litterely now wanting to set fire to her out of desperation mixed with frustration.
I seriously need help please!
Regards

just a thought, have you checked the fuel filter, fuel lines, filter could be blocked or a fuel line cracked and taking in air

I would be looking for an airleak on the inlet side, faulty ign switch, or camshaft sensor

I have not checked the filter however curious speaking, if so why then start , run a few secs and die?
I will check on this and reply my findings.

The cam sensor is new apologies in first thread it was not the timing sensor I replaced correction it is the cam sensor.

My mind is taking me towards the immobilizer but it's a thought.
Any thoughts about this?

Vincent123 said:

My mind is taking me towards the immobilizer but it's a thought.
Any thoughts about this?

Click to expand...

The immobilizer will sound a chime in the cabin, if a start is attempted without the key being recognised. However this is only true, if the immobilizer ECU doesn't recognise the key. The fault you described could be the engine ECU isn't getting a "run" code from the immobilizer ECU. However this condition isn't at all common, but not unknown.

It's best to eliminate the easy stuff first, before delving into more complex and less common faults.

First check the fuel pump is running and there's plenty of fuel being supplied to the fuel rail. It's very common for the fuel filter to clog, starving the fuel rail of fuel. This can give the symptoms you describe. If you can, you need to check the fuel pressure in the rail, but this is often beyond the home mechanic. So just allowing some fuel to run into a large receptacle will often be sufficent. The pump should supply a couple of litres of fuel in a minute of pump running.

Okay update. . I checked the fuel filter and also down as described by checking whether fuel is under pressure in fuel rail.
The pump motor runs and I get about 2.2ish l per minute in a glass jug.
I will purchase a new filter whilst I'm at it however this rules out fuel not being distributed to the rail.
As for the chime, no zero audible sound but what I've noticed is when switching ignition on then start a certain relay click sound clicks when starting and when engine dies another click sound. So I got me new relays and inserted this lot and sound still continues without any luck further.
In all my years of being a "home mechanic " ( stupid me ) this has got to be the very first ever.
I called up a few mechanics even Landy dealer themselves asked around and they too are just as dumbfounded as I.
I asked if they should do a diagnostic test their reply is they can however test won't include the immobilizer fault finding. ( ( ODD to say the least ) )
Keep thinking my fellow members I ask this hand on heart please....

It's sounding more like an immobilizer fault isn't it.

Do you have access to a noid light? If so, you can see if injection is stopping when the engine shuts down. This would prove that the ECU is stopping the engine, probably because it's not getting the run code from the immobilizer ECU. The immobilizer ECU has been known to suffer from corrosion on the plug contacts, which can affect it's communication with the engine ECU.

What model year is the car? Character before the ‘A’ in the VIN 8th from the end denotes model year

Model is 2001.
8th character from end is ..1..then A3.........

So an update.. I've had a auto electrician here and he triple checked wiring according to the RAV manual. He then went ahead and sort out from ignition towards injectors from started motor to ECU and now he says he will have to pull the dash in order to get to the remaining wiring apparently hiding inside the dash.
This means wimdow out and a whole lot of headaches.
I'm not sure about this as you said above concerning the immobilizer which is below the steering behind the fuse box inside cabin.
This is where my mind is taking me but before I do or make more mistakes ( human ignorant )
I prefer to ask members here for advice as knowledge is always acceptable.
Thank you guys in advance .. hand on heart appreciated
P.S. I am not giving up hope here ....

I would get fault codes pulled as the first stage from engine management and immobiliser ECUs then I would monitor live data for immobiliser and engine to check what is going on before, during and after the fault occurs.

Dumb as I am acknowledged. ...
Fault finding codes will it reveal the immobilizer too?

Vincent123 said:

Dumb as I am acknowledged. ...
Fault finding codes will it reveal the immobilizer too?

Click to expand...

With the correct diagnostic equipment, yes. It'll show a missing run code on the engine ECU, or a code sequence error. I'd not pull the dash out, before finding exactly what the problem is.

Done you sold me ...
Okay I will do this first thing in the morrow ...
Keep you all updated
Thanks for the help though

Greetings.
Update on the issue at hand.

Okay so I had my Landy towed to Land Rover agency for them to use that diagnostic equipment.
R 3789.23 later didn't find that problem. It did fine tune some stuff and also wasn't aware my airbags needed replacement.
The freelander is towed back to my place and I'm back to square 1.
Their mechanic said it will take them about a week to repair at cost of around R ( zar) 18500.00.
I turned this offer down flat and refused, as the vehicle market value is way lower than that.
To me i feel Land Rover house is a ridiculous agent and offer no help at all except force you To dig deep into your pocket .

However, like I said I am back to square 1 again.
So i started tinkering around starting with fuses to relays to wiring. Checked the fuel line plumbing checked the in can fuse box and relays as well as engine compartment box .
Although non shows faulty there is one relay even with a new relay gets kinda warm-ish .. it's found in the engine compartment with all the other engine / components fuses etc, set at stop engine marker.
I followed the wiring although hidden but by testing via a test light the fuel line. No fault there.
Book describes the ECU and all those sensors I've gone through not been able testing the sensor itself but my argument if engine starts up runs and switches off after 2 3 seconds.
This means sensors do work.

I am at a loss here totally frustrated now.
And gawd forbid but I am not going to send my vehicle in at Land Rover if their price is ridiculous.
Example... I asked a price on the steering rod ball joint right side ... cost R ( zar) 1850.00...
Whereas eBay landed at my doorstep cost R ( zar) 425.00.
Someone is pocketing except ebay .
And the part is original not a pirate part .

That's just for parts. Diagnostic problem finding at R ( zar ) 3789.23 with no idea what the problem is is absurd.

Guys what next .. I mean So do i continue or do I burn land rover for good and forget about?
It's seriously the only vehicle I got and living in a bad enough country costs purchasing another is ridiculous to say the least.

I ask help now please I am litterely at a dead end.
Thanks in advance

Did you get a print out of the faults stored from the Land Rover agent?

Yes I did
Temperature sensor ..... replaced
Srs. . Bought new bags and refitted
Settings to fuel economy was reset
Air fuel ratio .. reset was out 0.75%
Then it's the 3 amigos lights
The reading given showed sensors at wheels x4 needs to be replaced which I did order but through eBay.

Other than that according to their reading not much fault at all and mind boggling when it comes to why engine won't run.
I'd like to post the report just don't have access to do so however the above is the crucial diagnoses .
It further says at the bottom the ECM is in back up mode and points towards coolant temperature sensor ... which I replaced by them .
Still no luck.
What they also did is remove the camshaft position sensor replaced with another ... no luck and placed the new one I got back. Still no luck
They proceeded to replace the manifold absolute pressure sensor which the report also pointed to replaced this with no luck and put mine back again.
Basically that was all they did according to the report.
Now I am no specialist however I am pointing my mind towards the immobilizer again which I feel I should remove and get checked..bare in mind it makes no sense though I mean engine fires up and then dies after 2 3 seconds..
Clueless ...lol

Another issue is I don't get any warning light nor any codes at all not with me here and not even when she was with them either... makes no sense what so ever..

Have you checked to see if the exhaust is blocked or the air intake restricted?

Yes
I took off the exhaust manifold so I could have better access to that emission sensor used compressed air through the pipe.
I also removed the catalytic converter box no1 did the same there.
Starting the engine I placed my hand over the intake port at the throttle valve and she sucks big time.
Currently I am going through the Land Rover manual Haynes edition 3929. Page 4A-4 describing all the sensors that ECM controls .
So far I have no idea if any sensor actually works or not however the wiring is what I look at if possible damage.
So far no luck at all....hmmmm?

Did the garage say whether the immobilisation status shows up on diagnostics, and if so whether it was raised or not?

I believe the Japanese Freelanders had the immobilisation disabled and this means you can swap ECUs without having to swap the CCU/Imobiliser - if you are stuck, and its very much worth getting what I said clarified first, but you could see what it would cost to source one of those. There's a lot of ex-Japan cars over here, although after 2000 the 1.8's are not so common.