Thought I would get a bit of a thread going so all you folks can help me straighten out my ongoing mistakes.
So am slowly working my way through the numerous leaks on my TD, which are disguised quite well in all the years worth of crud stuck underneath, not an easy task.
Anyway, started with the sump gasket, went with an actual paper/cardboard version and seems to be holding out quite well, previous sealant had failed, changed the oil and filter so all good.
After cleaning a fair bit of oil/dirt off of the block I can see a drip of oil forming on the bottom of the lift pump which drips on to the oil filter below so was not easy to spot until clean.
Have picked up a new Delphi pump + gasket and intend swapping it out with the fuel filter as my next task.
So the lift pump seems to have a housing behind it, would it be good to remove that and fit a new gasket while there? it's not leaking but makes sense to do it, anyone any thoughts on this?
Thanks in advance
lasher

It's a spacer and will probably come loose when you remove the lp. May aswell clean it and refit with a paper gasket.

mick the builder said:

It's a spacer and will probably come loose when you remove the lp. May aswell clean it and refit with a paper gasket.

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Cheers Mick, thought so, will sort it.

Heading out in the morning to pick up some gaskets for the fuel pump switch and was thinking about a slight intermittent groan coming from the prop-shafts.
Both props look like the originals ( 89000 miles on the clock) rear one seems in good nick, no sideways/up down play but trying to grease via the nipples was a pain, snapped one nipple in half other 2 are ok. The front prop however has quite a bit of up/down and sideways play too much imo, UJ's look well neglected and past their sell by date.
So all in all I think 2 new props are in order, but not sure about the play in the front one, it's at the transfer box output end, would this be a bearing issue or oil-seal or both.
Wandering how big of a job is a bearing swap with the box in situ? Are there any special tools needed?
Don't really want to be swapping the box out just yet, can I get away with just doing an oil seal for now and a new prop? Or will I be flogging a dead horse?
Any help much appreciated folks

lasher99 said:

the transfer box output end, would this be a bearing issue or oil-seal or both.

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bearing wear = worn & leaking oilseal....

iirc theres a balrace behind the output flange and the output housings unbolt from the transfer box so can be worked-on in comfort (on a bench)

have a google / youtube session....

Rich.

Zed. said:

bearing wear = worn & leaking oilseal....

iirc theres a balrace behind the output flange and the output housings unbolt from the transfer box so can be worked-on in comfort (on a bench)

have a google / youtube session....

Rich.

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Going to take the front prop and output flange off tomorrow Rich to see what's what, sounds like something I may be able to handle.
Cheers lasher

lasher99 said:

Going to take the front prop and output flange off tomorrow

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keep us posted, it's a job on my list.........



but it's a bloody long list

Rich.

Update, purchased 2 new props, well I say 2 props but actually came home with the correct prop for the front and a twin driveshaft for some other vehicle ( the guy picking the stuff at Rimmers must have had enough of work by Sat morning) that will teach me to check all items in future before departing.
Anyway, also grabbed a front flange kit which was an aftermarket one and a genuine LR Oil seal, no real problems taking the old one off, used the prop-tool which was handy.
So new stuff back on, only real issue was the output kit comes with a smaller mud guard/shield that was clipped on to the aftermarket seal, I used the genuine seal and fitted the guard as it came, seemed to only fit one way, problem came when I tightened the nylon nut up there was no movement in the drive or prop not even a wiggle.
I wasn't happy with that so whipped the new flange off again swapped the mud shield for the original one, facing the other way, and all was good, new prop on and all looks good.
Whilst the oil is out of the box I changed the gasket on the pto plate which was leaking, so hopefully that is sorted, famous last words.
Just on with swapping the diff lock switch for a new one, what a pain to get to even with cab floor up, no good for guys with sausage fingers! Checked the old one when removed and worked fine, new Lucas one is slightly longer and when fitted seems to work the opposite of what I expected, diff-lock light on permanent and goes off when diff-lock engaged? The old switch had a screwed washer fitted so the switch was so deep, so I tried winding the new one out but same result.
Anyone any idea what I am doing wrong? Did jack one wheel up to rotate a touch see if it made any difference but no.

Cheers Lasher