Welcome my names Matt I have spent years with my head under landies and now i have just bought one and heres what should be my land rovers death certificate but being a lover of landies I'm restoring it to as new or better... Hopefully..

So let me Introduce you to "Lady" a White, 1995, 300tdi, 5 door Discovery. We met a couple hundred miles from my house a little over a year ago and it was love at first sight.. However she had been a little neglected so I snatched the keys from the robbing b****ds hands who enslaved her before threw him my cash and drove off in something I dreamed of having for years (low aspirations i know..) In my hazey loved up eyes i did manage to over look a few teeny weeny patches of the bad stuff.. and then a few more

However the engine, gearbox and and all area's around the rust was in very good condition and running sweeter than most 300's ( I have driven ALOT). Although some general servicing on most area's will give good room for improvement also im sure!

So in short including pictures soon as i suss out how..

Front Inner wings - cut out replacing with inner wing kit (Completed)

Boot Floor - Cut out including surround replaced with standard paneling topped with 2mm rubber matting and thin easily removable layor of chequer plate flooring.

Sills - Cut and either replaced with standard or box metal.. undecided

Interior - Mixture of heavy duty and soft and comfortable, lots of electric nerdy bits and safe storage (Mainly meaning water tight after getting air rifles wet from Lady's recent swim) All interior currently removed will get pics of the bad bits.. some in scarey spots before it gets cut out. Only front seats going back in... cut that weight where possible!

Add ons;

She came with an aftermarket very heavy duty front winch bumper which i didnt like initially but in action have grown very fond. the bumper that is, the winch cable broke 3 times (most likely operator error ) it does its job so this can go to the back of the cue for changing.

Roof lights bolted and wired to main beam, will add a switch when i decide where my switch panel will hide (as i said lots of nerdy electrics to come). but good fun when return firing someone who forgets to switch their main beam off

Rear bumber ... WONKY END CAPS ERRRRRRGGHH ! whole thing will be taken off and binned and replaced with something much heavier and straighter! (And rear boot cross member replaced just remembered) towbar with be thrown.. restricting alot at the back when out playing, rarely used will get some big hitch points on the bumper/chassis for rescue moments.


Rock sliders- depending also on sill replacement method.

Roof bars - try and save the few patches of paint left on the roof.. woops

Steering guard- Probably not have good access to spares and dont want to drag out recovery times any longer than needed!

Suspension- Currently has had a cheap 2" spring lift which does suprise me off road but not the quality im looking for especially on road, complete overhaul.. Will be sticking to 2" lift just done right!

Diff guards a must, air lockers... one day .. ill dream for now

and plenty plenty more.. its a landy

All ecouragement, tips and advice appreciated mainly through the modding side as I have little experience in the non standard side of Land Rover's.

Thanks for reading, ill keep ya posted!

Matt

:nopics:

Trewey said:

:nopics:

Click to expand...

Ok let the picture reading begin!

First mod was roof lights, probably the least essential bit of kit I needed but something I feel a must with Discovery's, thats the show off in me. Didn't take any pictures during the fitting however very very simple. Place light bar on roof in water gulleys, drill holes put bolts through holes and tighten... my kinda job!

Won't go into too much detail with the wiring, will cover this at a later date as will be adding a switch panel so will be altering the set up from simply wired to main beam (if you need help with this more urgently just ask!). As for routing the wire currently a little unprofessional i have simply tucked behind the seal down N/S windscreen (this will be corrected when snorkel is fitted), under bonnet, across bulk head and through exsisting gromit into drivers footwell/fuse box.. no need for any more holes on her!

And here she is with her first mod by me! Although incomplete

Coming up next front Inner arches cut out and rebuild pic's taken at a few various stages.. I will be taking better picture references from now on.. Promise!

:nopics:we like pic's

OK. I'm going to stick my neck out on this, but why roof lights? Loads of places I've been have overhanging branches or low clearance, so anything on the roof is a casualty. Its not as though 300tdi D1's have poor headlamps. If it was a Series LR, I could understand. Or is it just cosmetic........?

blackhadder said:

OK. I'm going to stick my neck out on this, but why roof lights? Loads of places I've been have overhanging branches or low clearance, so anything on the roof is a casualty. Its not as though 300tdi D1's have poor headlamps. If it was a Series LR, I could understand. Or is it just cosmetic........?

Click to expand...

I put rooflights on for laning in the dark. Potholes and 'the land' looks quite flat from a headlight, add in a second set of lights pointing down and you gain definition of obstacles. The outer lights of mine are turned to point towards the hedgerow on either side and down quite sharply, I won't be going fast but I do need to be able to see in tight turns.

Simple ..

I am building a rear bumper and sliders for my RRC using what's left of the box I am repairing the sills with. all of the steel for the sills, sliders, bumper and bracketing and cost £145 from the local stock holders..

Blackhadder - In all honesty I will say the main reason I fitted the lights was as I say I have wanted a disco for many years and in my head it had to have lots of lights, and of course what Paul D said... thanks for helping me out of a hot spot there btw! And we all know what a hot spots not..

Me too defender11069 so heres a few more!

Please note through the comming weeks that I am not a welder, however have a very capable mate and hopefully will learn the ropes soon enough, all other aspects apart the sticking has been done by me..

So although I've had 14hours of hell at work and one brilliant hour when i had to rescue my landlord in his land cruiser.. or not as the case may be (vids may follow) here is my run through on front inner arch replacement..

First if its in the way.. move it! Head lights, indicators, wings (yes like all landies they just unbolt) and of course there are those odd bits and bobs under the bonnet that are going to need to be moved out of the way.. ABS modulator if you have one, washer bottle, battery etc etc most can be unbolted and moved back out of the way..






Then the bit I love most, grab a grinder and if it looks weak cut it off!! I did also find the air chisel very good at seporating panels. (sometimes its better to check replacement panels before you go too crazy!) A few pictures to describe..


Becareful of the wiring looms!!


This side (N/S) not so bad support brace just has a small amount of surface rust and little work required on the bulkhead/top of floor pan.


The O/S was much worse a section of the wing support brace had to be chopped and also a big section which can be seen in the floorpan/bulkhead.


Now patch up whereever needed whilst you have good access then onto sticking in my case hand over to someone else.. but heres some pictures anyway, Getting good at this now eh?


First tac welded then seam welded throughout.. It is very important this piece goes on first then build out as support brace goes on top!



Then here..

Then the last section between the inside of the wheel and the engine bay and paint up all welds with a good sealant..





Waxoil the lot...

Then remember some holes need drilling to refix the underbonnet bits.. stick hands time, gloves recommended!


This waxoil may be removed and sprayed body colour at a later date..


Not too happy here however safe for the time being and might replace slam panel with TD5 and lights at somestage.. yes i know the dissadvantages are greater than the advantages but it might happen anyway

And as good old haynes said once or twice, refit reverse of removal..

Hope this picture content pleases! any questions fire away..

Otherwise tomorrow complete gear oil changes (she has been for a swim and i dread what i am going to find.. axles, transferbox, gearbox), stripping h/brake (tingling rattle very bloody annoying!) rear brake pads and maybe more..

My pictures dont seem to be working any tips ?

Stutab - what length and dimensions did you order to cover all that? would interested in seeing pictures of the sills and the rear bumper as and when its done mate!

Your pics are dead links.................

GreenHornet said:

Your pics are dead links.................

Click to expand...

how do i do it without attachments mate... struggling here currently have pics loaded on photobucket;

IMG_03191_zps1eaf073c.jpg photo by maddymatty | Photobucket

maddymatty said:

Blackhadder - In all honesty I will say the main reason I fitted the lights was as I say I have wanted a disco for many years and in my head it had to have lots of lights, and of course what Paul D said... thanks for helping me out of a hot spot there btw! And we all know what a hot spots not..

Me too defender11069 so heres a few more!

Please note through the comming weeks that I am not a welder, however have a very capable mate and hopefully will learn the ropes soon enough, all other aspects apart the sticking has been done by me..

So although I've had 14hours of hell at work and one brilliant hour when i had to rescue my landlord in his land cruiser.. or not as the case may be (vids may follow) here is my run through on front inner arch replacement..

First if its in the way.. move it! Head lights, indicators, wings (yes like all landies they just unbolt) and of course there are those odd bits and bobs under the bonnet that are going to need to be moved out of the way.. ABS modulator if you have one, washer bottle, battery etc etc most can be unbolted and moved back out of the way..

Then the bit I love most, grab a grinder and if it looks weak cut it off!! I did also find the air chisel very good at seporating panels. (sometimes its better to check replacement panels before you go too crazy!) A few pictures to describe..

Becareful of the wiring looms!!

This side (N/S) not so bad support brace just has a small amount of surface rust and little work required on the bulkhead/top of floor pan.

The O/S was much worse a section of the wing support brace had to be chopped and also a big section which can be seen in the floorpan/bulkhead.

Now patch up whereever needed whilst you have good access then onto sticking in my case hand over to someone else.. but heres some pictures anyway, Getting good at this now eh?

First tac welded then seam welded throughout.. It is very important this piece goes on first then build out as support brace goes on top!

Then here..

Then the last section between the inside of the wheel and the engine bay and paint up all welds with a good sealant..

Waxoil the lot...

Then remember some holes need drilling to refix the underbonnet bits.. stick hands time, gloves recommended!

This waxoil may be removed and sprayed body colour at a later date..

Not too happy here however safe for the time being and might replace slam panel with TD5 and lights at somestage.. yes i know the dissadvantages are greater than the advantages but it might happen anyway

And as good old haynes said once or twice, refit reverse of removal..

Hope this picture content pleases! any questions fire away..

Otherwise tomorrow complete gear oil changes (she has been for a swim and i dread what i am going to find.. axles, transferbox, gearbox), stripping h/brake (tingling rattle very bloody annoying!) rear brake pads and maybe more..

Click to expand...

PICTURES!!!

maddymatty said:

My pictures dont seem to be working any tips ?

Stutab - what length and dimensions did you order to cover all that? would interested in seeing pictures of the sills and the rear bumper as and when its done mate!

Click to expand...

Got a standard 7.5m length of 100mm / 60mm box with 3.2mm walls. Don't think there will be much spare, then got 42.5mm tube with 3mm walls that is 7.3m long. The box was £58.75 + vat and the tube was 20.50 + vat, also got 6mm flat 120mm wide 6.1m long for £33.75 +vat. Got a friend 48.3mm round 3mm wall 7.5m long tube for roll cage at £22 + vat.

Hope to have some pics in a few weeks.

Ideal cheers stu although think im going to stick with genuine sills possibly with some slight reinforcements (just in case) as either way id like my sliders attached strongly to the chassis and keeping the sills, body tucked away in safety and like to keep to genuine where I see its adequate (plus alot lighter). Still looking forward to the pics thoughout bud! ...

So today was spent doing a few jobs i have meant to have done a little while ago.. Firstly that damn tingling rattle from the handbrake.. i suspected one of the fixings from the shoes might had popped off due to mis-fit upon removing the drum one of the 4 fixing bolts that hold the drum to the transfer box fell out.. some doughnut left that one loose.. not me i promise! So not too off the mark and a much easier fix.

Whilst doing this i had the rear axle dropping its guts which i must say i should have done a year ago.. Let it drain untill it stopped sprayed a good load of brake cleaner inside and blew out with a air blower untill looked cleanish.

I also found whilst inside the h/brake drum i had a slight leak from the transfer box output seal, as i was changing the oil here anyway i drained this one next and in went the seal, luckily we had one kicking about.

Drained the gearbox oil which had also seen better days, then give the magnet on the drain plug a good clean screw in and out repeating this a few times to grab some more of the chippings out then let the rest be.

And finished up with the front axle.. very black so will probably need to check the swivels for grease in the week..

Topped them all up (MTF 94 for gearbox - 75/90 Axles and transfer box)

Adjusted H/brake (Single bolt on back of H/brake drum tighten whilst off untill drum wont turn then turn back near full turn so drum turns freely. Check.

Greased props and spent a bit of time cleaning down the surface rust from the rear of the chassis close to fuel tank so its not so scarey when i cut the floor out and see even more work to do, the rest of the chassis im glad to say is spotless!

And without further ado.. Pictures!



Start ya off with a tool, here is a prop shaft nut socket have seen a few different examples this one seems one of the best cost around £15 from your local tool van man.




Also spotted a worn propshaft donut/coupling will have to get back to this as none if these kicking about .. deffo seen worse examples mind..



Hear is the evidence of the leaking transfer box output seal again not a bad exampe of them leaking but leaking none the less! Easily seen with the h/brake drum removed (undo 3 propshaft nuts slide back off of studs, undo one big screw and pull drum off, whack with hammer if stuck (make sure h/brake off first)) undo 30mm nut, easy with airgun. pull off flange Oh err! (For you green hornet) remove seal (hooked puller ideal, dont scratch the face!) metal outter case will pop off too. carefully replace the seal using a fitted socket or with a punch if needed carefully working around the seal (lubricate first). Refit flange, apply small amount of instant gasket if possible to washer and on large thread then do up TIGHT.


what it should look like without the flance etc (one of these four bolts was what was found floating around in the drum).


Ok so thats just about the bulk of it today, Lady's MOT is up Feb 10, will get shots tomorrow of the bits to be done beforehand.. Me and my business currently depend on her so the race is on!

Nice pics Maddymatty. Will help when I have to do the same fabrication later in the year. Just need to get another Disco so I can take mine off the road for a week.

Thanks blackhadder i'm doing me bestest! Though im going to have let ya down on the pictures today as just not enough daylight time left to get some shots.

I did however get chance to have a go on a plasma cutter today for anyone who thinks ive just started talking about something from star trek, a plasma cutter works very similar to a welder expect using HPA (high pressure air) it cuts rather than sticks... MY GOD THEIR BLOODY BRILLIANT! Practiced by cutting my initials out of a defenders front chassis crossmember (was being cut out anyway diff story) single handedly in seconds. My mind is now on overload at the possibilities!

So ive done just about everything I can to get Lady ready for her MOT
apart the big bits No more tinkering about tomorrow im all angle grinders, air chisels and of course... THE LIGHTSAVER... i mean plasma cutter :violent:

Plan of action:

Empty all me junk that has accumulated inside the car since removing the interior.. over a month ago And take some pictures of the rust as seen from the inside (mainly because some of which is very bad and may shock anyone who hasn't bothered to look, as im sure there's alot of MOT stations that wouldnt pick this up either)

Remove the rear bumper, towbar and fuel tank.

Cut out the entire rear floor pan upto the top vertical section in the 2nd row footwell along tight to the side of the vehicle as the side panels are being done too. Most of which will be done with the plasma cutter im sure

Then remove rear boot crossmember (bit between floor and bumper) as its starting to rust.. so in for a penny in for a pound and out it comes! This will probably be done with a mixutre of the air chisel and the plasma cutter.

So im removing the fuel tank as whilst the floor is out i can have a good ol clean up of the chassis and get it properly treated as of course its difficult to get at with the boot floor in may as well do it properly all round. (towbar coming off as it's in the way when out playing, bloody icecream scoop)

Then I run to the shop buy a crate of beer and hopefully me mate starts to weld in the floor..

Whilst he's at this I can make a start on the sills again this will probably be best done with the plasma cutter and air chissel as i want it to stay nice and tidy. A trusty grinder im sure will get it's use throughout aswell..

If i manage to get anywhere near this point ill be a happy man (perhaps will do the beer run a little earlier on) Im lucky to have access to an impressive workshop don't mean to rub it in to anyone who has done this on their back.. honestly, hats off to you guys!

Be prepared for a whole load of picture fun over the next couple days!

Regarding the sills, I'm replacing mine with some box section rather than OE sills. Hopefully be a more permanent and solid job.

Yes its been a difficult choice this one going with OE as much more expensive aswell but I am planning on having the sills well protected from obstacles by the sliders and rust shouldn't be an issue as the sills come in 2 pieces so i can make sure properly sprayed and waxoiled as it goes together. Also i want to stay original where possible and keep the weight down as much as possible as theres going to be enough bolt ons eventually

Today was that day, It's comes into realism of the time thats going to have to go into this before it even gets to the fun bits! However youv'e gone far enough to have to keep going..

However progress..ish has been made and the pictures to entertain!

Firstly here is a few shots for those that haven't "properly" checked their boot floor.... Those that have kids who like to sit in the fold out seats in the boot pay particular attention!


These two black metal brackets are what your folding seats bolt too then onto the rear inner quarter panel, check the bottom line of this...


This is a bit closer...


Check the flex in the quarter panel from the last pic with a slight push...


This square patch you see through the whole in the arch is the mounting point for the N/S/R (center row) seatbelt...







What you could also find in your boot floor if you haven't looked... Arent' plasma cutters great?!









So as planned the rear bumper and towbar have been removed along with all the crap and rubbish from the car. Then using a plasma cutter (an angle grinder would be absolutely fine for this of course but makes alot more noise when theres a choice..) We cut arounnd the entire boot floor in one big section.. only thing that got hurt underneath was one of the brakepipes going to the rear of the car. Becareful of the fuel tank if you are leaving it in.

After around an hour of cutting the rust out, this is all i was left with..




....... Woops i mean this....



And a cheeky pose by "the ripper" one of Lady's surgeons! Currently using visegrips to squeeze my brakepipes closed to stop the fluid leaking (extra care would be taken however i am removing the ABS system so all pipes will be changed at the same time).

More tomorrow .. :doh: