Simon Perks

Simon Perks

Active Member
Ok team so I have messed up somewhere as now I’m experiencing a lack of acceleration and power.
Standing i can rev the engine way up to 4000rpm no problem but when driving it’s struggling to get up to 3000.
The acceleration pedal seems to do almost nothing, it’s on the floor, no kickdown, gently I can get it up to 120kmh.
Did the head gasket and there’s no sign of overheating but did I miss or mess up a sensor somewhere?
New injector harness comes tomorrow and yes the ECU Plug was swimming in oil.
I changed the waste gate system both parts and now I’m wondering if this has anything to do with it or a combination.
What about the throttle sensor, should I also do that?
Im also still not convinced that my village garage put enough transmission fluid in at service as I gave him 10 liters but got 6 back..
a bit baffled now

simon
 
Simon Perks said:
Ok team so I have messed up somewhere as now I’m experiencing a lack of acceleration and power.
Standing i can rev the engine way up to 4000rpm no problem but when driving it’s struggling to get up to 3000.
The acceleration pedal seems to do almost nothing, it’s on the floor, no kickdown, gently I can get it up to 120kmh.
Did the head gasket and there’s no sign of overheating but did I miss or mess up a sensor somewhere?
New injector harness comes tomorrow and yes the ECU Plug was swimming in oil.
I changed the waste gate system both parts and now I’m wondering if this has anything to do with it or a combination.
What about the throttle sensor, should I also do that?
Im also still not convinced that my village garage put enough transmission fluid in at service as I gave him 10 liters but got 6 back..
a bit baffled now

simon
Click to expand...
Re the tranny fluid, you need to know what exactly he did.
If he simply drained it and then topped it up again then that doesn't seem too far off. You can't get it all out just by removing the drain plug, so much of it stays in the torque converter, the gears, the cooler etc. and you do have to fill it up with the engine running after having moved the lever through all the gears slowly, pausing in each gear.
It is generally seen that you have to do this a few times to be sure of having changed the ATF. And did he do a filter change at the same time?
Do make sure the MAF and the MAP/IAT sensors are clean, and if in doubt about the MAF simply disconnect it and then see how it goes. If it goes better then it either needs a feck off good clean or replacement.
Make sure you have 13 threads visible between the waste gate actuator and the locknut, down the threaded part.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Re the tranny fluid, you need to know what exactly he did.
If he simply drained it and then topped it up again then that doesn't seem too far off. You can't get it all out just by removing the drain plug, so much of it stays in the torque converter, the gears, the cooler etc. and you do have to fill it up with the engine running after having moved the lever through all the gears slowly, pausing in each gear.
It is generally seen that you have to do this a few times to be sure of having changed the ATF. And did he do a filter change at the same time?
Do make sure the MAF and the MAP/IAT sensors are clean, and if in doubt about the MAF simply disconnect it and then see how it goes. If it goes better then it either needs a feck off good clean or replacement.
Make sure you have 13 threads visible between the waste gate actuator and the locknut, down the threaded part.
Click to expand...
The MAF is the one after the air Filter? The MAP is by the inlet manifold right?
 
Simon Perks said:
The MAF is the one after the air Filter? The MAP is by the inlet manifold right?
Click to expand...
Right!
Be careful not to drop the bolts on the MAP.:eek:
Currently I am searching for sensor cleaner here in France.
Anything I see in a shop leaves a residue, so I am going to have to order some from Belgium.
Tis a right royal pain!!
One more place i can try tomoz then tinternet it is!:(
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Right!
Be careful not to drop the bolts on the MAP.:eek:
Currently I am searching for sensor cleaner here in France.
Anything I see in a shop leaves a residue, so I am going to have to order some from Belgium.
Tis a right royal pain!!
One more place i can try tomoz then tinternet it is!:(
Click to expand...
 
Simon Perks said:
Is the cleaner special? We use electronic contact clear by the Ton daily if that works..
Click to expand...
The trouble is a lot of them, if not all of them, leave a residue, it even said so on the tin I looked at in Leclerc Auto which was being recommended by the guy there.
As far as I know sensor cleaner is supposed to be used not contact cleaner.
I tested 70% alcohol, left a residue, and acetone, did the same.
It has been suggested isopropanol (Is that how you spell it?) would be OK.
Others may come on and tell you if I am wrong.
 
Isopropyl is what we use on the tape recording heads I can tell you it leaves no residue for certain but also the spray contact cleaner is too.
It’s called contact 60 and is a mix of butane and isopropyl so some countries it’s unavailable as it’s deadly in the wrong hands ☠️
 
Simon Perks said:
Isopropyl is what we use on the tape recording heads I can tell you it leaves no residue for certain but also the spray contact cleaner is too.
It’s called contact 60 and is a mix of butane and isopropyl so some countries it’s unavailable as it’s deadly in the wrong hands ☠️
Click to expand...
Funnily I mentioned this in another thread and the fact that I used to get that stuff to clean tape heads in my cassette players.
So do you work in a studio or summat? Not the one that burned down in "Smoke on the Water"!!!???:D:D:D
 
Simon Perks said:
Standing i can rev the engine way up to 4000rpm no problem but when driving it’s struggling to get up to 3000.
Click to expand...
two things to begin:
1. Check Td5 fuel pump HP
2. a stall test
Stall test.jpg
 
A big improvement yesterday, did the stall test and I’m at an easy 2600+.
Injector wiring harness was in the Post so I swapped that out, the MAP sensor (on the inlet manifold) was full and I mean full of gunk, I used industrial tar remover (butane propellant with alcohol and isopropyl plus some other nasty stuff) to clean it.
Cleaned the red plug and socket on the ECU.
The MAF looks like it’s newer than the air filter pipe.
This morning it made a huge difference on the drive down The Valley to the train station so very happy.
I’m still loosing coolant through the bleed valve on the top hose but I have a new one ready to get fitted at the weekend so I guess I’m about there.

i read a lot about this Nano Meter that shows a lot more details a out what’s going on but I wonder if it will just lead to nervous driving worrying about gauge values.
I’m used to very little on my S3 so I see no reason not to trust the indicators given by landrover right?

thanks for the advice guys

Alpine greetings

simon
 
Now it's all fixed i can say.. its s landy!! It's supposed to be lacking on performance and acceleration!!! :D
 
When you clean the MAP sensor make sure that the little hole inside at the bottom(shown with red arrow) is completely clear of muck cos there's the pressure sensor which has a huge involvment in the fuelling strategy, the "probe" is for IAT
MAP pressure sensor.jpg
 
sierrafery said:
When you clean the MAP sensor make sure that the little hole inside at the bottom(shown with red arrow) is completely clear of muck cos there's the pressure sensor which has a huge involvment in the fuelling strategy, the "probe" is for IAT
View attachment 273353
Click to expand...
thanks,
yes it was fully gunked up.
Do you think the ECR blanking will only make this worse now then or improve it?

It's way way better than it was but i still have like a flat spot and no real kick down acceleration but the gear changes are for sure improved.
Could this be that throttle sensor on the pedal?

Simon
 
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