steveo
Well-Known Member
cheers - if I go the pin route, I will reset the pump first. I can get a quite smooth and stable 70 out of it on the flat, and there is no significant oil coming out of the (bypassed) breather.
steveo
Well-Known Member
Yeah - hand cross was the worst, dropping into 4th before the weigh bridge
and barely making 50mph. The other hills were similar though, including the last drag up to the M25 junction, just losing speed.
steveo
Well-Known Member
Interesting - I was checking the boost pin position earlier - its turned to maximum, but if I then move the throttle (with no diaphragm installed) I can't see the pin moving - but then that would surely mean the fuelling wouldn't increase at all? Unless its the range of movement thats restricted..... Just thinking out loud!
flat
Well-Known Member
Inside the boost pin chamber is a small rod sticking out the side - that needs to be free moving - use a screwdriver to ease it in and out and spray it with silicon spray as if it doesnt move your fuelling won't increase so making boost becomes a moot point.
Also check the pipe work to it is clear.
This is 200tdi but IIRC is similar to a 300
Also check the pipe work to it is clear.
This is 200tdi but IIRC is similar to a 300
Retroanaconda
Well-Known Member
If you pull the diaphragm and eccentric cone out then you should be looking at an empty cavity. Actuate the throttle lever to full throttle and then fuel metering pin mentioned above should pop out into view. As flat has correctly said you should be able to move it back in with a small screwdriver and then push the lever to pop it out again. If it's sticky or won't move easily then you could be short of fuel on boost.
I had a problem with the FIP on mine whereby the metering pin was stuck, I managed to get it freed off again by removing the blanking plug on the lower-front of the boost compensator housing (behind the throttle arm which needs removing for access) and tapping it through there (you can get to the back of the arm which pushes the pin). Working it back and forth applying lubricant freed it off. Unfortunately it also caused a leak - there is a small o-ring that the pin runs through which stops diesel coming along it into the cavity in which the eccentric cone sits, this failed and the diesel eventually started leaking out of the breather on the back of the compensator housing. Got a spare pump rebuilt in the end!
I had a problem with the FIP on mine whereby the metering pin was stuck, I managed to get it freed off again by removing the blanking plug on the lower-front of the boost compensator housing (behind the throttle arm which needs removing for access) and tapping it through there (you can get to the back of the arm which pushes the pin). Working it back and forth applying lubricant freed it off. Unfortunately it also caused a leak - there is a small o-ring that the pin runs through which stops diesel coming along it into the cavity in which the eccentric cone sits, this failed and the diesel eventually started leaking out of the breather on the back of the compensator housing. Got a spare pump rebuilt in the end!
steveo
Well-Known Member
Cheers chaps - I whipped the top off again to confirm.
The only way the pin came out fully was by holding the throttle wide open for about 10 seconds (lots of resistance) - the pin then slowly moved out. A bit of lube and a bit of working back wards and forwards, and the pin now pops out a treat when the throttle is opened.
It will be a few days before I get anywhere near hands cross, but a local steep hill and she will pull 40mph in 4th with no labouring or loss of speed, and very slight acceleration under full boost. This is better than previous runs at this hill.
Thanks for the advice
The only way the pin came out fully was by holding the throttle wide open for about 10 seconds (lots of resistance) - the pin then slowly moved out. A bit of lube and a bit of working back wards and forwards, and the pin now pops out a treat when the throttle is opened.
It will be a few days before I get anywhere near hands cross, but a local steep hill and she will pull 40mph in 4th with no labouring or loss of speed, and very slight acceleration under full boost. This is better than previous runs at this hill.
Thanks for the advice
james6546
Well-Known Member
Some good advice here, I have the same problem, on the flat it drives fine but up slight inclines on the motorway it struggles to keep at 60.
That said I did have a roof tent and it does have a disco transfer box. I'll give this a try though.
One thing, I tried my hand at tuning but it didn't really have an effect other than a lot of black smoke so I put it back, is there anyway to reset the smoke screw back to it's original position? As I think I lost track of where it was due to the centre screw being seized.
That said I did have a roof tent and it does have a disco transfer box. I'll give this a try though.
One thing, I tried my hand at tuning but it didn't really have an effect other than a lot of black smoke so I put it back, is there anyway to reset the smoke screw back to it's original position? As I think I lost track of where it was due to the centre screw being seized.
IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
The fuel adjustment pin being stuck is common I had it on a friends 90 which ran alot better afterwards. I don't think there is a standard setting James. I guess you could back it all off so there's no smoke then screw it in bit by bit whilst frequently testing for excessive smoke just like you should do whilst tuning it
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
I've also got this bookmarked for future tinkering
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/sluggish-disco-not-any-more.146991/
Speckydude
Well-Known Member
Also from way back in the Dawn of Time : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/uncle-charles-pump-timing.55111/
discomania
Well-Known Member
In a 96 300tdi 110, with a following wind, in 5th, boost at about 17psi on the gauge, up a hill (not steep...) I struggle to keep 60 mph - in fact up the A23 today on the way back from Brighton, I ended up shifting down to 4th to even manage 50!
How does yours compare?
I have done the following:
tappets
intercooler clean
1 full turn of top screw on pump
90 cw degrees on the diaphragm
90 cw degrees on the star wheel
All pipes and hoses are secure and air tight where they need to be.
I expect more
Shall I put it in the hands of a professional when I get the timing belt done?
How did you arrive at these "settings" you used above? it sort of sounds like you have misunderstood tuning an injection pump.
The three adjustments ough to be adjusted in relation to each other with test drives and checking in-between tuning. Do you know if the pump was totally standard tune before you started tinkering?
What did you do to the tappets?
Have you done things like, air and fuel filters? You could also consult with a diesel mechanic and have them setup your pump timing bang on. I did nothing more than give my 300tdi a good service and a timing tune up to get it spot on, it reduced my fuel burn, increased power and reduced black smoke. I knew from the noise and smoke that my injection timing was a little retarded, after going a little too advanced I found the sweet spot. Took me minutes to do the adjustments but lots of quick drives around the block.
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Speckydude
Well-Known Member
and remember to do a service as in filters etc, but also check the hoses for splits, pinholes and delaminations.
steveo
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the replies - I may not be an expert when it comes to adjusting / setting / servicing my 110, but I am not an idiot either, however all advice is valuable - its like talking round a problem and allows different trains of thought to be explored
The tappets were set to the correct clearances, with new caps (one had punched through) - done by a damn good independent. The diaphragm is set to max fuel delivery (still no appreciable smoke) with the eccentric farthest away from the fuel pin, service done regularly (2 fuel filters in a year and a clean air filter).
All adjustments were done one at a time with drives in between - I now have better pick up from idle, and better midrange acceleration (relative, I know).
While I can change a timing belt, (and have done several), I won't be adjusting the pump - I will get my local independent to do the belt and pump timing shortly.
If you'll excuse me, I am going to lie down now, as I am just out of hospital - if you want, google 'transperineal biopsy'.
The tappets were set to the correct clearances, with new caps (one had punched through) - done by a damn good independent. The diaphragm is set to max fuel delivery (still no appreciable smoke) with the eccentric farthest away from the fuel pin, service done regularly (2 fuel filters in a year and a clean air filter).
All adjustments were done one at a time with drives in between - I now have better pick up from idle, and better midrange acceleration (relative, I know).
While I can change a timing belt, (and have done several), I won't be adjusting the pump - I will get my local independent to do the belt and pump timing shortly.
If you'll excuse me, I am going to lie down now, as I am just out of hospital - if you want, google 'transperineal biopsy'.
