That's a very good example, knowing how to read these things on the diagnostic while the engine is turning and watching behavioural patterns. Being a specialist they should know what to expect.
Some components will work even when underperforming and some won't.. with or without fault codes or eml's.
Definitely a dedicated diagnostic needed.
 
holidaychicken said:
I had a new golf company car that after a year was getting slower and slower, 0-60 took about 20 seconds, it had been to the main dealer a few times and they replaced turbo and exhaust and loads of other stuff but still crap. I went in to the dealer to look at the next car and mentioned it to the young girl on reception about it and she said it would be the air mass meter, but I said it has had everything done to it including the senior technician taking it on, 20 minutes later after she asked them to change the air mass meter it felt like a rocket ship!
Click to expand...

The Range Rover is having a new air flow sensor fitted today, apparently the readings don't change from idle to when it is being driven which could be causing all sorts of issues, including the lack of power.
Fingers crossed it will be sorted by the end of the day!
As for the EGR blanking off kit not being legal for an MOT I'm not entirely sure, we will see what happens at the next MOT!
 
Update..

So the Range Rover had the new Airflow sensor fitted and this made a vast improvement for a few minutes before returning to limp mode. The old sensor wasn't working so this wasn't helping things, however, the technician now thinks the ECU is somehow affecting the airflow sensor.
Long story short, the ECU has been sent off for testing and is currently with them. Does anyone have any experience with ECU faults etc? If it comes back without any faults being found then I honestly don't know where to go next as everything has been changed that could be causing the problems. Selling as spares or repairs or for parts might be the only option, which would be a shame as it's such a lovely car!
 
RotherRog said:
The Range Rover is having a new air flow sensor fitted today, apparently the readings don't change from idle to when it is being driven which could be causing all sorts of issues, including the lack of power.
Fingers crossed it will be sorted by the end of the day!
As for the EGR blanking off kit not being legal for an MOT I'm not entirely sure, we will see what happens at the next MOT!
Click to expand...
I don't know the L322, but on a lot of cars you cannot blank the EGR as the ECU checks for feedback and if there is none can put the car into limp mode. The MAF readings are used by the ECU for operating the EGR amongst other things. I'd put the EGR back to standard at least until you get to the bottom of the problem. Disabling the EGR on my Transit and on my mates Defender requires a re-map of the ECU.
 
Datatek said:
I don't know the L322, but on a lot of cars you cannot blank the EGR as the ECU checks for feedback and if there is none can put the car into limp mode. The MAF readings are used by the ECU for operating the EGR amongst other things. I'd put the EGR back to standard at least until you get to the bottom of the problem. Disabling the EGR on my Transit and on my mates Defender requires a re-map of the ECU.
Click to expand...
Exactly data, if the egr valve is a motor driven unit, it monitors it's position. Only blocking the pipe can effectively stop unwanted crap entering the inlet manifold. A software delete is the other option. That way the setup looks untouched.
 
RotherRog said:
Update..

So the Range Rover had the new Airflow sensor fitted and this made a vast improvement for a few minutes before returning to limp mode. The old sensor wasn't working so this wasn't helping things, however, the technician now thinks the ECU is somehow affecting the airflow sensor.
Long story short, the ECU has been sent off for testing and is currently with them. Does anyone have any experience with ECU faults etc? If it comes back without any faults being found then I honestly don't know where to go next as everything has been changed that could be causing the problems. Selling as spares or repairs or for parts might be the only option, which would be a shame as it's such a lovely car!
Click to expand...
I think you would benefit from live data so that you can see what is going on as you drive it but if the ECU is not communicating correctly then you could still be at a loss.
To enter limp mode it must communicate somehow to tell it why to do it but if it is at fault somehow then the faults won't make sense I guess.
i am pretty sure you can clone the engine ECU on to a known good one with the right kit. A faulmate would cost you at least £100 just to change the license over and back again if you can find one with an L322 license nearby. i am at the wrong end of the country and there is no guarantee it will tell you what you need, i'll send it to you for a £1000 refundable deposit :)
 
Dont think blanking egr is the problem, it will run just as well if not better with it blanked it might throw a fault code however but no eml on the dash. or so I understand ;)
 
kds said:
Dont think blanking egr is the problem, it will run just as well if not better with it blanked it might throw a fault code however but no eml on the dash. or so I understand ;)
Click to expand...
Disabling the EGR on some vehicles will certainly put the car into limp mode.
 
I have a feeling that the 2006 TD6 i was having fun with turbo related limp mode, i think it was that as when i backed the turbo actuator right off it ran really well although i am not convinced it didn't have something to do with the transfer box connection, didn't light up the EML even with the ignition switching on and i never saw it on multiple limp mode runs. I don't think it was active by design - i may be wrong though again..
 
Many EGR's I've fitted to Diesels has always had a small hole drilled in it to allow some gasses through to keep the ECU happy..

Notably Duratorq diesels will throw a right hissy if you fit an entirely "blanked" plate..


With the M57 being a veritable smorgasbord or leccy tronics i'd say that might be the problem there.
 
The ECU has come back, no faults at all detected. The technician said he looked through the stored data and he seems to think that there is an ABS fault or a fault on the brake system which is causing the engine to go into limp mode.
We connected the ECU back up and sure enough there are three warning lights illuminated that weren't there before! ABS light, DSC and and Emergency Brake Assist are all illuminated amber.
Also the height adjustment is no longer operating and the normal ride height light is flashing.
What are everyones thoughts on checking the ABS unit? Is this something that can be easily checked/replaced? Also was thinking of replacing the pressure sensor on the end of the fuel rail.

The saga continues...
 
I wouldn't think EAS or ABS would cause fault mode, when my abs sebsor was playing up it used to try and apply the brakes when i started moving thinking it was engaging HDC.
have you cleared faults and then checked again and they return ?
Have you tried steering lock to lock to see if the disconnect has upset the steering angle sensor / eas ?
 
Thanks for that info wish i had your knowledge on RR. Tried what you suggested turning wheel lock to lock and guess what , lights disappeared from dash and i was able to get all three height levels.Took it for a spin and its still flat as a fart.When it was at auto electricians he told me there was 7 bar fuel pressure before the filter which is new so now wondering if there is sufficient pressure in the fuel rail. Think the next thing to replace is the fuel pressure sensor in the end of the fuel rail.Does this make any sense to you and is it a DIY job what does it entail. Fed up with spending on the bloody thing.Many thanks for all your help.
 
RotherRog said:
Thanks for that info wish i had your knowledge on RR. Tried what you suggested turning wheel lock to lock and guess what , lights disappeared from dash and i was able to get all three height levels.Took it for a spin and its still flat as a fart.When it was at auto electricians he told me there was 7 bar fuel pressure before the filter which is new so now wondering if there is sufficient pressure in the fuel rail. Think the next thing to replace is the fuel pressure sensor in the end of the fuel rail.Does this make any sense to you and is it a DIY job what does it entail. Fed up with spending on the bloody thing.Many thanks for all your help.
Click to expand...
Pressure sensor could cause the problem but should log a fault, EGR valve could also do it and again should log a fault. Is your new fuel filter a good one or a cheapo?
 
I should have some live data for the TD6 showing manifold (turbo) and fuel pressures at the various stages , it was a bit intermittent but captured enough data.
One day soon you will love this car again and it will feel like the fastest thing on the road..I hope
 
Datatek said:
Pressure sensor could cause the problem but should log a fault, EGR valve could also do it and again should log a fault. Is your new fuel filter a good one or a cheapo?
Click to expand...

The fuel filter was the first thing to be replaced by the garage, it cost enough so should hope its a good one!
 
I've come to the end of the road with the RR, the latest garage suspects a possible injector fault which would explain the rough idle and smoke etc.
Is there a section on here I can advertise it for sale as spares or repairs? Its too good to break and the right person may very well know how to get it running right. I've spent a small fortune trying to get it right and can't justify spending any more.
 
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