Greetings All,

Previously posted in wrong forum, sorry for anyone who has read this twice, I have updated the details.

I have 2005 L322 RR Vogue 3ltr TD6, recently we had a mouse problem, the pesky bleeders chewed up the main fuel line that runs from the fuel filter to the injector pump, the one that has two clear plastic pipes and rubber bit on either end with a tee piece in the middle. Replaced the pipe and turned on the ignition, heard the air gurgle away but no start, cracked off the first injector and it was dry at the rail, can't get to any of the other injectors because of the inlet manifold. After turning over a few times we had good amount of fuel at the rail but still no start. A friend suggested we needed to get the air out and in the absence of a bleed valve, we got it running with Easy Start. Left it running on the drive for around 20 minutes, stopped and started it a few times and started but seemed to be a little more laboured than normal. Whilst I was trying in vain to refit the air filter hosing it cut out and wouldn't start again. Another can of Easy Start later we had it ticking over on the drive so took it for a test drive, 200 yards down the road is an incline and as I started to climb and accelerate it cut out. Pulled over and it started again no problem so off I went again, managed maybe half a mile on the flat but it cut out again. Pulled over with the nose up a slight incline, started again but if I rev it above 2500 rev it cut out, did this a couple of times and then it wouldn't start even with Easy Start so had to get towed back. There are no errors on the dash and the management light which was on went out before I pulled out of the drive but has returned.

Had a mate put his diagnostic machine on it and it posted two different faults the description of both is 'Implausible Fuel Pressure', didn't manage to get the actual codes. Another mate spoke to a guy in Holland with experience of the TD6 and he suggested the Fuel Pressure Sensor in the rail can get damaged if the rail is dry, not sure if there is any truth in that but I have ordered a new sensor to be sure.

Any other suggestions of things to check or do whilst I have the inlet manifold off?

Thanks

The high pressure regulator is a fairly common issue which I had to do a few months ago. It would start with easy start like yours but not without it. Quite easy to change if that's all your doing as long as the pump itself is ok.

Thanks backinblack,

No reason to believe it is anything else, RR was running fine before the mice did the damage and it always started without issues before, I'll fit the sensor and see what is what after that.

I put a bit of a thread up o hear https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2005-td6-not-starting.359145/ no need to take as much off as I did just for the regulator as you can do that with the pump attached to the engine.

The pressure check valve O-ring was my next thought but couldn't seem to be able to get any tool on to the torq bolts on it because of all the pipes around it, I will have another go, does anyone have any wisdom on how to do this with the pump on?

I took my fuel rail pressure regulator out with the HP pump insitu - this was on a 530d, same engine.

I can't 100% remember the process, but it was intake manifold off at the very least from what I recall - I will have to see if I have any pictures of it while I working on it at home tonioght!

OK so I replaced the fuel pressure sensor today and also managed to get the check valve out, the check valve seals were intact but the end of the check valve had something resembling the the fibres from the cotton lining of the fuel hose on the chromed shaft end of the check valve that fits in to the injector pump.

Does anybody know how the check valve operates, the chromed shaft looks to be perforated at the end where the fibres were, is it actually a hollow tube or is it a solid shaft?

Could the fibres be from the chewed pipe, the hole in it was maybe 3/4" an inch long but maybe 1/2" either side was chewed down to the cotton reinforcement. I am wondering if debris from the pipe could of entered the high pressure pump? Surely the pipe would of been under pressure so when it got punctured any debris would of been pushed away and if it was chewed up further after it was holed any debris would get pushed clear by the fuel coming up the tube and not pushed to the high pressure pump when I tried to start it and discovered the holed pipe. Perhaps the fibres are from something else in the pump but why would the pump fail all of a sudden after the fuel pipe got punctured?

The engine won't start, I have checked and I have fuel at the first injector pipe on the common rail, maybe not a fountain but there is fuel there when I turn over.

Any wisdom here would be greatly received.

Check pump seals are good so next step is to take the pump off to see if it shot.

I'm really struggling with the viscous fan coupling it won't budge, does anyone know on the td6 (BMW M57) if it is a left hand thread?

Any tips on how to get it off, I have tried trying to hold the pump pull and striking the spanner on the fan nut with a hammer.

Thanks

Undo in same direction as rotation, had to buy another viscous spanner and have two on job to get mine off first time which made the job kind of interesting holding two spanners while striking one with a hammer !

this may be worth a watch if you haven't seen it

Thanks for the help, seen that video quite useful.

Got the fan off, to confirm RH thread clockwise to get off.

Pump out and when stripped for new seals found bits of rubber stuck in each chamber



Hopefully that is it, well find out tomorrow when we put back in

OK everything back on and seems to be working.

Coolant is low, so I must of lost more than I thought when I pulled off the hoses, coolant is a very very faint straw colour, anyone know what this might be? As far as I am aware it has always been serviced by LR. Don't want to mix anything wrong with it.

Most coolants are compatible but if you don't want to mix it, first of all top it up witg some antifreeze and put some radiator flush in and it'll clean it, then empty and rince it all out. Then refill with some clean new antifreeze and your good for two years minimum.

Thanks I had come to that conclusion as I have no idea what it is, never seen coolant that was a very distinct colour, blue, green orange ect. I have new coolant and flush on order so will clean it out and replace it with fresh.

Right coolant changed, new fuel filter, air filter, oil and oil filter. running absolutely fine.

But have now discovered and interesting issue, I took the car out a few times not far but it was fine stopped and started OK when I went to a shop and for fuel, wife took car to shops the other day, fast roads so would be going 60 most of way for maybe half an hour, she said it seemed to lack power, parked up and came back maybe 20 minutes later and it wouldn't start. I called a tow truck but whilst she was waiting she tried it and it started up and drove OK, she went to a couple of other shops and it drove back fine.

I went out yesterday and it drove fine 20 minutes to our local agricultural merchants, turned it off whilst I loaded the car up, started OK and I drove back, I parked it up went for a cuppa tea, 10 - 15 minutes later I went out to move it up to the shed and it wouldn't start, left it another 10 minutes or so and it started fine, started and stopped it several times after that.

So fault seems to be starting when warm but only if left for 10 or 15 minutes but then is OK again after maybe another 10 minutes, anybody any idea what I should be looking for ?

Thanks

Is it spinning over and not starting or just not really spinning over.
Battery terminal not on tight enough and a bad earth strap passenger side of engine by engine mount are common faults.

Don't think it is electrical, turns over with no start.

I noticed this morning it is idling a little rough, not trying to stall but pulsing a little, never did this before mouse damage.

Wondering if maybe rubber got beyond the injector pump, we cleaned out each injector pipe but maybe a bit got to an injector.

Ты check your car bmw inpa or another diagnostic program?

So stripped the pump and found more rubber that must of still been lurking in there. Put it back together and it now leaks. Took the plunge and put a refurbed pump on. Now seems to work, fingers crossed

Them`s little mice have a lot to answer for