steveeasy · Oct 3, 2021

Ok, ive had a leaking diff oil seal that ive changed twice without really stemming the flow and been topping it up. the inevitable happened and I cooked the diff. well the rear pinion seal has failed big time. Looking uip at the diff ,im thinking here we go again. looks like the subframe has to come out to remove the diff.

So was thinking just to replace pinion seal until I get time or the enthusiasm to get started again. anyone know anything about either removing the front diff or changing the pinion oil seal.

Thanks
Steveeasy

marjon · Oct 3, 2021

Has yours had the modifcation done on the front pinion design.
Let me check what my manual says and I will look for the alert at the same time.

J

marjon · Oct 3, 2021

So cant find the bulletin yet its been posted here several times.

My Manual bear in mind TDV8 2011 says you don't need to drop the subframe but you do have to lift the engine.

Now I know its a disco fred but worth a read here as I am sure the bulletin was posted in here somewhere, and as they are very similar Driveline wise may help. Smithy didnt drop the subframe. So I would suggest getting all the wheel & plastic out the way and give it a good coat of looking at.Re-Discovery | Page 10 | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

J

steveeasy · Oct 3, 2021

marjon said:
So cant find the bulletin yet its been posted here several times.

My Manual bear in mind TDV8 2011 says you don't need to drop the subframe but you do have to lift the engine.

Now I know its a disco fred but worth a read here as I am sure the bulletin was posted in here somewhere, and as they are very similar Driveline wise may help. Smithy didnt drop the subframe. So I would suggest getting all the wheel & plastic out the way and give it a good coat of looking at.Re-Discovery | Page 10 | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

J

Marjon,
well ill read through that. to drop the subframe i have to undo engine mounts and disconect power steering as well as lift or hold engine so ill see how far I can lift it. not sure how the diff driveshaft releases through the sump though.? ill have to look in to that one.
Many thanks
Steveeasy

marjon · Oct 3, 2021

It’s say release engine mounts and lift engine 40mm why maybe to get the last bolt

.

but take a dam good look at it cos they often say too do more than is really needed, when you think about it

.

good luck

.

J

brianp38dse · Oct 3, 2021

This is the difference on the diffs

steveeasy · Oct 3, 2021

marjon said:
Has yours had the modifcation done on the front pinion design.
Let me check what my manual says and I will look for the alert at the same time.

J

No idea. what was the modification

brianp38dse said:
This is the difference on the diffs
View attachment 249482

Brian,
Thanks for this, Yes Ive had the upgrade then.

Steveeasy

Bemble · Oct 4, 2021

This is the procedure outlined in RAVE for the original splined drive tube design:

Although the ‘usual’ method would be to simply mark the nut and shaft when you remove the pinion flange, and then retighten to the same position following replacement of the seal, there’s a high risk that by not replacing the collapsible spacer and accurately setting the torque required to spin the pinion shaft (1.4Nm +/- 0.2Nm), that the correct preload on the pinion bearings will not be achieved and they will fail soon after.

For that reason, rather than just get the dealerships to replace the drive tube with the new pinion flange for the Q041 Service Action, the garages were told to remove the final drive assembly completely and strip it down so that the collapsible spacer could be replaced. This must have cost Land Rover a fortune.

This is the Q041 Service Action that uprated the original design due to front propshaft spline failures through misalignment:

Phil

steveeasy · Oct 4, 2021

Bemble said:
This is the procedure outlined in RAVE for the original splined drive tube design:

Phil,
Thanks for that. i dont think ill give it ago in situ then, I am going to change the Diff now as I am sure getting it so hot probably has reduced its life expectancy to little more than a few 100 miles.

Steveeasy

Although the ‘usual’ method would be to simply mark the nut and shaft when you remove the pinion flange, and then retighten to the same position following replacement of the seal, there’s a high risk that by not replacing the collapsible spacer and accurately setting the torque required to spin the pinion shaft (1.4Nm +/- 0.2Nm), that the correct preload on the pinion bearings will not be achieved and they will fail soon after.

For that reason, rather than just get the dealerships to replace the drive tube with the new pinion flange for the Q041 Service Action, the garages were told to remove the final drive assembly completely and strip it down so that the collapsible spacer could be replaced. This must have cost Land Rover a fortune.

This is the Q041 Service Action that uprated the original design due to front propshaft spline failures through misalignment:

Phil

steveeasy · Nov 12, 2021

Ok updating on the front diff on my l322 TD6. Due to leaking it overheated and cooked the pinion oil seal. think it destroyed the bearing as well. So picked up a used one. wondered if this meant subframe out again. I can report back was fairly easy. Front wheels off. both driveshafts removed with hubs still attached to the hubs. remove the ABS sensors first disconecting blue plugs. undo engine mounts 2 bolts only. Lift engine 2-3 inches. Undo propshaft at front. undo 4 bolts that hold Diff on. bingo it will come out of the side above subframe. Oh i removed the anti roll bar drop link as well. New one went back in, bit heavy but with gloves was fine. bolted back on and drop engine back on mounts and do bolts back up.

All good now.
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