Garwillis

Active Member
Hi Guys I got a bit of a problem my 2004 Rangie has developed a ride height issue stating air suspension inactive, I can reset it and it last about 2-3 days at various speeds before coming back on..the n/s rear and front seem to have dropped quite a bit ..the code is 64 articulation validity fault and the readings are n/s front showing 47.2v and all the other positions are showing between 2.10-3.43v all of the cabling to the ride height sensors look ok but am I right to think it would be the n/s front because of the voltages or is this a spurious fault ?
 
Would assume sensor is fecked....articulation validation fault means the system thinks the suspension geometery is totaly out of range and has shut the system down.
 
Just a question: I understand the system can feel if there is a leak, or a sensor issue. But how could it know the geometry is "off" ?
 
Just a question: I understand the system can feel if there is a leak, or a sensor issue. But how could it know the geometry is "off" ?
Because the ECU is programmed with what the designers considered 'plausible' articulation positions, if the sensor goes out of this 'range' the ECU will report articulation faults and shut the system down as it cannot guarantee the position and attitude of the vehicle and maintain the safety of the system or the vehicle correctly....

In the L322 the EAS system is also used to feed information of vehicle attitude to the ABS system for traction control and stability information, ifthe ECU can't determine the position/attitude of the car correctly, it feels it is safer to shut the system down rather than make erroneous height and stability adjustments.
 
Jeez. Amazing. Been around cars for quite a while but I don't know any other car where the system is monitoring the wheel articulation to then determine if it shuts down the air suspension.

Thanks for the explanation :)
 
Jeez. Amazing. Been around cars for quite a while but I don't know any other car where the system is monitoring the wheel articulation to then determine if it shuts down the air suspension.

Thanks for the explanation :)

Well if one corner reading is vastly different from the other three it has to tell the system something. ;)
 
True. Then again, if your geometry is so buggered... maybe you should have seen that as you got into the car?
 
Jeez. Amazing. Been around cars for quite a while but I don't know any other car where the system is monitoring the wheel articulation to then determine if it shuts down the air suspension.

Thanks for the explanation :)
Hence why I jumped ship from the L322 to the 110......the L322 is a bloody amazing car and awesome to drive....but its sheer complexity and repair costs were becoming to much for me in my currently 'stressed' life with a number of things going on in my personal and professional life, myself and my girlfriend decided enough was enough, we loved the car and whilst I loved repairing and working on it and figuring out how it worked and what is does, I just didn't have the time, money or space to keep up with it, so we opted for a simplier 'nuts and bolts' life of 110's rather than Range Rovers for a while....
 
Here's what I got on my download, from this I'm suspecting the front left sensor hence the voltage increase ..
IMAG0824.jpg
 
Does Anyone have any ideas on the readings ..I've taken the plug off the n/s front and cleaned it but still the same, I'll try a calibration tomorrow to see what happens and failing that I'll replace the n/s front and go from there ..I had a similar thing about 6 months ago but with hdc inactive as well as suspension inactive and it turned out to be my front abs sensor..but this is different..
 
Ok so to update you..I've carried out a full calibration of the suspension and the figures are all within 10mm of each other and error free, sitting a bit low on the back end but I'll calibrate it again once I get the correct figures ..
 
Ok so to update you..I've carried out a full calibration of the suspension and the figures are all within 10mm of each other and error free, sitting a bit low on the back end but I'll calibrate it again once I get the correct figures ..
Hi
Could you tell me how you calibrate yours.
I've tried doing mine with Allcoms.
Your voltage on left front was high, 3 others high. Mine is the same
Did you find out why.
Cheers
Steve
 
I guess my brief explanation in your post previously was not adequate enough....I even said there was a help file to tell you how to do it and a bit of Gooooooogling may well bring up even further info and tutorials on how to do it!!
 
I guess my brief explanation in your post previously was not adequate enough....I even said there was a help file to tell you how to do it and a bit of Gooooooogling may well bring up even further info and tutorials on how to do it!!
I'm really struggling, I have spent so long searching, emailed storey Wilson,
But he said it could be steering sensor. I don't think it's that.
Today I reset suspension.then measured and changed heights 10 times trying to get them all to the right heights.
If you want to lift 1 corner 10. You try and lift 1 corner and they all move.
There is no videos on storeys new Allcoms 3 for setting up.
I have got them Cole within 10mm of standard dive and a few minutes and dash says air suspension inactive.
Do you think it's worth looking at abs sensors
I do appreciate you help
 
Defo if you've got them within 10mm then I'd be doing a continuity test through the sensors to check them ..especially if uts still coming up with suspension inactive ..I had this and it was a sensor previously but it also said HDC inactive too..
 
Defo if you've got them within 10mm then I'd be doing a continuity test through the sensors to check them ..especially if uts still coming up with suspension inactive ..I had this and it was a sensor previously but it also said HDC inactive too..
I have put 3 new height sensors, 1 looks fairly new.
Suspension Gos in all heights great, drive off few minutes
Air suspension inactive, then plug in Allcoms to reset.
I don't no what else to check.
How can you check height sensors, in case faulty from factory.
Cheers steve
 
Have you Carriedout a calibration since changing the sensors ? I'd then look at the ride heights live on your diagnostic machine are they all within 10mm of each other on all settings ..is it also displaying hdc inactive as well as suspension inactive ? If it does I'd be looking more towards an ABS sensor if not I'd get it on a different diagnostic machine to pin point it.
 
Have you Carriedout a calibration since changing the sensors ? I'd then look at the ride heights live on your diagnostic machine are they all within 10mm of each other on all settings ..is it also displaying hdc inactive as well as suspension inactive ? If it does I'd be looking more towards an ABS sensor if not I'd get it on a different diagnostic machine to pin point it.
I have calibrated, no hdc when I looked at live data it was strange didn't under stand.
Left front was at 23564 right front 4
Left rear 0 right rear -43678 when in std height.
Should I check abs sensors
 
Are there any faults stored in the ABS ECU log that would indicate an issue with the sensors?

The L322 ABS and EAS system talk with each other and are dependant on each other for correct operation - hence why when one system faults, the other will also indicate a fault.

The EAS system relies on speed and braking information from the ABS ECU and the ABS system gets feed back from the suspension geometry position and the Steering sensor, Wheel speed sensors and the Yaw sensor to make adjustments through the Dynamic Stability Control system to ensure the vehicle is in a safe attitude and applies 'control measures' to maintain such.

The EAS system has indicated an Articulation Validity Fault - This either the ride heights are not valid (sensor readings out of range - or the ECU is not getting the readings it thinks it should and as such requires the ECU to be recalibrated) or the ECU is not getting the 'reaction' from the sensor it thinks it should... i.e. the ECU commands a down motion on the vehicle but the sensor is feeding back the car is actually going up.... this can happen if a sensor is mounted upside down or the control link has been reversed.

If you have no faults in the ABS ECU other than maybe a CANbus error (caused by the EAS ECU) or some other report to suggest the EAS system has shutdown and the ABS ECU isn't getting a message from it anymore.....then there is nothing wrong with the ABS system.

If an ABS sensor was at fault, there would be a fault logged with the ABS - similarly if the Steering Angle Sensor was at fault the ABS system would indicate this.

The EAS ECU has been known to get damp in its location on the passenger side (UK) A pillar, it may pay to get at it and check all the wiring connections to it, it could be a damp or corroded connection to it from one of the height sensors giving it a spurious reading.

Also, check all the wiring to all the height sensors for cleanliness and security.

This is why I got rid on my L322 in the end - the stress of fault finding was doing my head in.....they are complex beasts and after 5-6 years of ownership, a young family, work pressures etc...I needed to de-stress my life and went for something that is just nuts, bolts , grease and rust!
 
Are there any faults stored in the ABS ECU log that would indicate an issue with the sensors?

The L322 ABS and EAS system talk with each other and are dependant on each other for correct operation - hence why when one system faults, the other will also indicate a fault.

The EAS system relies on speed and braking information from the ABS ECU and the ABS system gets feed back from the suspension geometry position and the Steering sensor, Wheel speed sensors and the Yaw sensor to make adjustments through the Dynamic Stability Control system to ensure the vehicle is in a safe attitude and applies 'control measures' to maintain such.

The EAS system has indicated an Articulation Validity Fault - This either the ride heights are not valid (sensor readings out of range - or the ECU is not getting the readings it thinks it should and as such requires the ECU to be recalibrated) or the ECU is not getting the 'reaction' from the sensor it thinks it should... i.e. the ECU commands a down motion on the vehicle but the sensor is feeding back the car is actually going up.... this can happen if a sensor is mounted upside down or the control link has been reversed.

If you have no faults in the ABS ECU other than maybe a CANbus error (caused by the EAS ECU) or some other report to suggest the EAS system has shutdown and the ABS ECU isn't getting a message from it anymore.....then there is nothing wrong with the ABS system.

If an ABS sensor was at fault, there would be a fault logged with the ABS - similarly if the Steering Angle Sensor was at fault the ABS system would indicate this.

The EAS ECU has been known to get damp in its location on the passenger side (UK) A pillar, it may pay to get at it and check all the wiring connections to it, it could be a damp or corroded connection to it from one of the height sensors giving it a spurious reading.

Also, check all the wiring to all the height sensors for cleanliness and security.

This is why I got rid on my L322 in the end - the stress of fault finding was doing my head in.....they are complex beasts and after 5-6 years of ownership, a young family, work pressures etc...I needed to de-stress my life and went for something that is just nuts, bolts , grease and rust!
Faults in log are:
Anti lock brake system. Air suspension system can error
Air suspension. Articulation validity fault
Instrument panel module. Ebv function fault
Every time cleared eas works the drive off eas inactive
Eas Ecu is dry and connections looks good
All height sensors fitted right
When plugged in to the icarsoft i930 its says left front voltage 54volts
And all other 2 ish volts? That is new sensor,but it said the same before I changed it.
3 new height sensors ( have you ever heard of new one being faulty)
1 height sensor looks new but don't no how old.
How can you check a sensor is working correctly
I don't understand how it can go up in to off road down to access back to std
And 2/3minutes driving lights go out and eas inactive back on.
When calibration how close to std settings do you need to be?
When doing calibration and I try and lift 1corner 10mm and leave others close session, lift to full height let it set back down and every measurement is different.
Is that normal.
Cheers
Steve
 

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