R

Richard25

New Member
Hi i’ve got a Range Rover L322 03 plate, diesal engine and was wondering if anyone could help???

One morning the car started fine (as usual) until later that day when i went back to it and the car tried to start but wouldnt fire up but was turning over...after that the battery went dead so i therefore charged the battery and after putting my snap on diagnostic computer onto the car it reveiled a fault P1DF5 Anti theft device (EWS) and will not allow me to clear the fault cause as soon as im clearing it it then comes straight back up..???


Anyone have any idea’s as im at my witts end with it....

Thanks
 
Sounds like a defective/low battery to start with and the car is now confused and needs a proper diagnostic tool to read/reset the codes.
All RR's and esp. the L322 are VERY particular about having a really good and strong, fully charged battery.
Get the codes read by a proper RR code reader. Check your battery voltage is at least 12.7V (or better). 12V or less is a dead/dying battery.
An L322 expert will be along soon, I am sure, if you have posted in the introduction section to intro yourself first before posting here (we all like that, its the polite thing to do).
 
As said above they need a good strong battery.

Check the charging output of the Alternator with a multi meter..

it should be putting out atleast 14v when running.
 
@holidaychicken has had EWS issues (admittedly on the 4.4 M62 V8) but each time the battery was disconnected or went low - he had to get LR to re-initialise the EWS/Immobiliser unit to allow him the start the car - worth a punt!
 
DanClarke said:
Sounds like a defective/low battery to start with and the car is now confused and needs a proper diagnostic tool to read/reset the codes.
All RR's and esp. the L322 are VERY particular about having a really good and strong, fully charged battery.
Get the codes read by a proper RR code reader. Check your battery voltage is at least 12.7V (or better). 12V or less is a dead/dying battery.
An L322 expert will be along soon, I am sure, if you have posted in the introduction section to intro yourself first before posting here (we all like that, its the polite thing to do).
Click to expand...

Thanks dan for your speedy reply and further knowledge on this issue.I appreciate it greatly and will look into your suggestion as soon as...also sorry about not introducing myself, im knew to this forum and didnt know what to do
 
The EWS system on the TD6 won’t allow the starter motor to operate if it is immobilising the vehicle, the 4.4 will crank but not start though as the ignition and fuel pump is used to immobilise that engine.
You can still get an EWS fault showing though on the TD6 if you have low battery or other systems that talk to the EWS are not functioning correctly.
The ignition switch is a possibility as it is not a single switch but 3 or 4 switches or 12 volt feeds combined into one.
We managed to diagnose the switch on a recent thread by testing the various fuses fed from the ignition had a good 12 volts (battery voltage ) supply.
My first thoughts on a diesel cranking and not starting is always fuel system.
I’ll give you some things to try
But first thing to check as pointed out by others is battery voltage and terminals clean and tight.
Can you get access to some Range Rover specific diagnostics like Allcomms as snap on doesn’t always tell you the whole story I have found ?
 
Last edited:
At 2K rpm, the voltage at the battery should reach 14.7 volts. I agree with the others, the cold weather has shown up a failing battery. If you need to replace it, you need to buy a 120AH 1000CCA battery, not the torch battery the likes of Halfrauds recommend.
 
Richard25 said:
Thanks dan for your speedy reply and further knowledge on this issue.I appreciate it greatly and will look into your suggestion as soon as...also sorry about not introducing myself, im knew to this forum and didnt know what to do
Click to expand...
Hi Richard,
You are very welcome. We are all in the same boat (having been cursed with the love of the Green Oval). I have an old P38 and they are trouble enough; the L322 can be a positive nightmare and all I did was repeat what I have seen/heard in countless other threads on this issue. Its a real shame that LR made them so sensitive to low-volts.

Good Luck mate.
 
DanClarke said:
Hi Richard,
You are very welcome. We are all in the same boat (having been cursed with the love of the Green Oval). I have an old P38 and they are trouble enough; the L322 can be a positive nightmare and all I did was repeat what I have seen/heard in countless other threads on this issue. Its a real shame that LR made them so sensitive to low-volts.

Good Luck mate.
Click to expand...
Poor design of the ECU power supplies.
 
here is a bit of blah i took from my discussions with @nigglyblue when we were chasing his ignition fault, his started with cranking and not firing and then progressed to no dash lights or cranking.
Yours may be fuel related or something completely different but if you want o check a few fuses for voltage it is very quick to do with a multimeter and you don't even need to remove the fuse if you have a pointed probe.

Have a read of this BMW forum, you may have to register as if you read too many of their threads without registering they block you but really good forum so worth doing.
This thread had very similar problem to yours, only light on dash is airbag, problem starting with cranking ok but not starting and getting worse quite quickly which yours did and that was ignition switch but also same problem twice was a loose battery connection, i had to get some coarse emery cloth on the inside of the battery connector on that TD6 I had as that was showing signs of flat battery, might be worth doing next time you charge your battery as I know you like taking that battery in and out but your terminals looked good to me..

Also mentions fuel relay but i don't think that is relevant but can't be sure.
When yours was cranking and then started to do that half crank thing and then nothing points towards a connection getting worse.

https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f18/2001-e46-320d-no-lights-dash-wont-start-t3083/

These are mainly notes for me as it is easy to read these off my phone if i come over.

I have had a read through the electrical manual and looked at the circuit diagrams - i may now be permanently cross eyed

As I checked the voltage of fuse 5 and that was only 2 volts or less I have looked at what other fuses are powered from the ignition switch to test although it may not be completely conclusive as there are a lot of red wires coming from the bottom of the switch so one could be good and another bad.

To test my theory of a faulty ignition switch and knowing that fuse 53 that supplies the ignition is ok and at 12 volts i will check during my next visit ....
Fuse 5 again to confirm only 2 volts.
Fuse 34 and fuse 2 should be live with the ignition

The transmission circuit
Fuse 53 and fuse 54 should be permanent live
auxiliary position on ignition fuse 37 (transfer box) should be live
when ignition on fuse 5 , 33 and 35(HDC) should be live.

Instruments panel
Fuse 27 (BCU), 46(Instrument panel) and 53 should be permanent live
auxiliary position on key - fuse 45 should be be live
ignition on, fuse 1 should be live and provides two feeds to the instrument panel.
The clock illumination lights should come on with key in auxiliary position and ignition on when the sidelights are on.

if this is an ignition switch problem then following link is somebody who took theirs apart and cleaned it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l322-range-rover/244107-replacing-ignition-switch.html
 
Datatek said:
At 2K rpm, the voltage at the battery should reach 14.7 volts. I agree with the others, the cold weather has shown up a failing battery. If you need to replace it, you need to buy a 120AH 1000CCA battery, not the torch battery the likes of Halfrauds recommend.
Click to expand...
Wow that's a meaty battery, when looking for a replacement for mine I couldn't find anything above a 110ah and 950 cca. Only bigger battery I could find like that was leasure batteries
 
Mid life crisis said:
Wow that's a meaty battery, when looking for a replacement for mine I couldn't find anything above a 110ah and 950 cca. Only bigger battery I could find like that was leasure batteries
Click to expand...
Battery Megastore among others supply that size battery and it fits. Made a big difference to the time the car could be left and still start without problems.:D
 
Mid life crisis said:
Been on there website and couldn't find anything that size, biggest was the varta 110ah. You got a link for the bigger one?
Click to expand...
Battery Megastore £89.20
  • Part Number : MF31-1000
  • Manufacturer : Hankook
    • Ah : 115
    • This has replaced the 120AH Alphaline, the CCA is still 1000 which is the important bit. Double check the measurements to ensure it fits the L322.
 
Datatek said:
Battery Megastore £89.20
  • Part Number : MF31-1000
  • Manufacturer : Hankook
    • Ah : 115
    • This has replaced the 120AH Alphaline, the CCA is still 1000 which is the important bit. Double check the measurements to ensure it fits the L322.
Click to expand...
Thanks for taking the time to look for the part number but unfortunately it not the right size for the l322 (hight and length)
 
Mid life crisis said:
Thanks for taking the time to look for the part number but unfortunately it not the right size for the l322 (hight and length)
Click to expand...
You sure it wont squeeze into the space? I know it's physically bigger than standard, but I thought it would go in. Otherwise there will be one that fits with the same ratings.
 
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