Hi John

Charger is new, in fact I bought 2 of them as they were such a godo price, tried both, same result on both.
Battery wont even unlock or lock central locking, so pretty flat
Sorry whats loading?
Battery is only 14 months or so old, 5 year guaranteee with it.... might 2 or 3 times drained completely of rendered it unserviceable?

And yup read the instructions several times, and now pulling hair out at home

Also guys, how hard is it to change the alternator belt? Got a new one for it so may put that on once problem is sorted.. is it a DIY job? or a pain to get to?

mrblonde said:

Hi John

Charger is new, in fact I bought 2 of them as they were such a godo price, tried both, same result on both.
Battery wont even unlock or lock central locking, so pretty flat
Sorry whats loading?
Battery is only 14 months or so old, 5 year guaranteee with it.... might 2 or 3 times drained completely of rendered it unserviceable?

And yup read the instructions several times, and now pulling hair out at home

Click to expand...

One of my chargers requires a certain level of battery voltage before it will switch on and start charging.If the battery voltage is below this ,there is a switch you have to press until the battery voltage rises above the threshold level.After that the charger will continue to charge.
As you have read the instructions I guess your charger does not have this feature.

Loading is simply drawing current from the battery ie switching on the lights with the engine not running.It was a thought that if your battery was fully charged then your charger would not switch on as it detected a fully charged battery.

I would have your battery checked by an auto electrician.
If is u/s then it may not accept charge.
Or prehaps both chargers are u/s though unlikely.

cheers john.
hope charger doesnt have that feature you mentioned unfortunately

So next step may be to get an auto electrician to check the battery? Is it a common check they do? Had Mr AA chec kit when he jump started me a couple of times and said it was charging fine and alternator was working too

Could it running flat a few times of made it unable to now hold a charge?

Thanks again

mrblonde said:

cheers john.
hope charger doesnt have that feature you mentioned unfortunately

So next step may be to get an auto electrician to check the battery? Is it a common check they do? Had Mr AA chec kit when he jump started me a couple of times and said it was charging fine and alternator was working too

Could it running flat a few times of made it unable to now hold a charge?

Thanks again

Click to expand...

They can check under load and if is a wet cell can check specific gravity of each cell.
Batteries can fail virtually instantly.I had a battery which function normally at first start of the day,I drove a few miles and then parked.Came back to the car a short while later and the car was electrically dead.A cell in the battery had completely failed.It had "shorted out" according to the auto electrician.

What is the make and model of your charger?

Is the battery still connected to the RR?.
If it is I would disconnect it and try to charge it then,you never know!

Might sound a bit cheap but it was from Lidl the charger, on special offer yesterday:

LIDL Great Britain - lidl.co.uk

Got great reviews on several sites, so bought 2, given the probs Ive had recently.

Battery is still connected to the RR, should I disconnect it? If so, whats the correct procedure to disconnect please?

mrblonde said:

Might sound a bit cheap but it was from Lidl the charger, on special offer yesterday:

LIDL Great Britain - lidl.co.uk

Got great reviews on several sites, so bought 2, given the probs Ive had recently.

Battery is still connected to the RR, should I disconnect it? If so, whats the correct procedure to disconnect please?

Click to expand...

Try this

attery disconnection
It is imperative that the key is removed from the ignition before disconnecting the battery. A time of 2 minutes must also elapse before disconnection.
Failure to do so could result in:
l Navigation computer hardware damage
l Incorrect fuel gauge reading
Before disconnecting the battery, disable the alarm system and switch off all electrical equipment. If the radio is to be serviced, ensure the security code has been deactivated.
CAUTION: Never disconnect the battery with the ignition switched on.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the navigation computer hardware, a waiting period of two minutes must elapse after the ignition is switched off before the battery leads are disconnected.

After re-connecting the battery, the steering wheel must be turned to full LH and RH lock (with engine running). This allows the DSC system to relearn the steering wheel position. Failure to do so will result in a variety of instrument warning lights being illuminated.

Battery charging
Only recharge the battery with it removed from the vehicle. Always ensure any battery charging area is well ventilated and that every precaution is taken to avoid naked flames and sparks.

86.15.01
Before disconnecting the battery, ensure all text and cautions in the battery disconnection section are observed.
+GENERAL INFORMATION, Electrical
Precautions.
Remove
1. Open bonnet.
2. V8 models only: Disconnect bonnet earth lead.
3. Release screen washer tube and heated washer jet harness from bonnet clip.
4. Secure bonnet in service position.
5. Disconnect both battery terminals, earth lead first.
6. Remove battery clamps.
7. Remove nut securing earth lead to body, release lead from stud.
8. Remove battery.

Refit
1. Clean battery tray.
2. Fit battery, align battery clamps fit and tighten bolts to 10 Nm (7 lbf.ft).
3. Connect body earth lead to stud, fit nut and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft).
4. Connect gas struts to body.
5. V8 models only: Connect bonnet earth lead and tighten nut to 6 Nm (4.4 lbf.ft).
6. Position washer harness and tube to bonnet, secure clip.
7. Apply petroleum jelly to both terminals, fit and tighten terminal bolts, negative lead last.

CAUTION: After re-connecting the battery, the steering wheel must be turned to full LH and RH lock (with engine running). This allows the DSC system to relearn the steering wheel position. Failure to do so will result in a variety of instrument warning lights being illuminated.

I can find no mention of the word pyrotechnic in the manual nor can I see one in the electrical diagrams. However, I'm no expert in the L322, I've never even driven one.

Wait! It's mentioned in the owner's manual (page 204 of the NAS version)


WARNING
The battery positive (‘+’) terminal is fitted with a pyrotechnic charge, designed to disconnect the battery as a safety precaution in the event of a severe collision. For this reason, the battery charging, disconnection and removal should only be attempted by qualified personnel.

Cheers JohnP

Mr AA jump started me again, and said to leave it ticking over for 45 minutes to put charge back into it, and to make sure I use it every day.... He seemed a bit old school and from reading previous posts on here, 45 mins ticking over isnt enough to recharge the battery.

Now Im not sure wether to:

A) Run if for a good couple of hours, put life back into it and use it as normal and see how it goes

B) Move it to a place easier to put it on charge (I dont have a drive way), run ext lead out and trickle charge it overnight tonight (if the chargers decide to let me choose the charge mode that is)

What would you guys do?

mrblonde said:

Cheers JohnP

Mr AA jump started me again, and said to leave it ticking over for 45 minutes to put charge back into it, and to make sure I use it every day.... He seemed a bit old school and from reading previous posts on here, 45 mins ticking over isnt enough to recharge the battery.

Now Im not sure wether to:

A) Run if for a good couple of hours, put life back into it and use it as normal and see how it goes

B) Move it to a place easier to put it on charge (I dont have a drive way), run ext lead out and trickle charge it overnight tonight (if the chargers decide to let me choose the charge mode that is)

What would you guys do?

Click to expand...

Along slow trickle charge is always best for a flat battery.

mrblonde said:

cheers john.
hope charger doesnt have that feature you mentioned unfortunately

So next step may be to get an auto electrician to check the battery? Is it a common check they do? Had Mr AA chec kit when he jump started me a couple of times and said it was charging fine and alternator was working too

Could it running flat a few times of made it unable to now hold a charge?

Thanks again

Click to expand...

Yes, as I think I have said a couple of times on this thread.
It's highly likely your battery is shagged, lots of short runs = never fully charged, plus being flat a few times = dead battery.

Cheers data mate
Battery is only about 14 months old, cane with 4 or 5 yr warranty from battery2u.co.uk, do you reckon they'd honour the guarantee? Or will it be case of send it back get it tested etc etc and them trying to get out of replacing it? (I know it's prob my fault it's shagged, just don't wanna shell out another £140 on a battery if I don't have to)

And where's going to be best to get the best battery I can for her at a decent price?

HELP! Read this with interest as I have the same problem. Apologies for the long post but I'm hoping someone has the answer. Bought the RR early September, no electrical problems. First really cold weekend in December, car would not start on the key turn, dash lit up like a Christmas tree, lots of messages about various faults, then it started after about 5 seconds. No gear selection and various other systems turned off. I turned the ignition off and tried again and the car started as normal. This happened a couple more times, then got the AA out. Battery tested and 'good' but needed a charge. Current draw 9 amps with everything off, AA man went through the fuses (in the front) and when he pulled the fuse for the nav etc the current dropped to less than 1 amp. Leaving this fuse out has solved the poor starting problem. Car in at LR dealer on Thursday, nav unit would not take the software update that I was told should sort problem. Whilst poking around the tech found that the upper tailgate was sticking meaning that the lights stayed on, this was sorted and he thought this might solve the current drain but.......it hasn't! Poor starting issue again today although not as bad as the first time. I have checked the fuse and it was a 15 amp instead of 30 so I have changed it - could this be the problem? So, that's the full story! Before I spend more money allowing the dealer to run a 'full diagnostic' (their words) I am hoping somene out there can help?

mrblonde said:

Cheers data mate
Battery is only about 14 months old, cane with 4 or 5 yr warranty from battery2u.co.uk, do you reckon they'd honour the guarantee? Or will it be case of send it back get it tested etc etc and them trying to get out of replacing it? (I know it's prob my fault it's shagged, just don't wanna shell out another £140 on a battery if I don't have to)

Click to expand...

Try battery megastore, 135AH 1000cca for the P38 about £98 delivered, 4 year guarantee. Send your battery back under warranty and if they replace it keep it on charge as a spare. They will probably try to wriggle out of it and offer a partial refund. It's possible to tell if the plates are sulphated due to not being kept charged.

Batteries are the bane of every Range Rover owner. I invested in a commercial battery tester which I was lucky enough to get on Ebay for about £35 from memory. It goes through a preset programme including measuring the CCA as well as the usual voltage check. Takes the guesswork out of it and tells you if the battery is duff or not.
Most garages will have one. A battery needs to be tested while under a high current load.

I just bought a bosch silver battery. £120 delivered. Car starts much quicker now and no more errors

Read the whole thread with interest as i've been suffering with battery drain in my classic lse for the last 4 years... ever since i've had the car with brand new battery fitted the battery would only last less than 2 weeks without use, now the battery is old and knackered i'm only getting a few days between use before it's too flat to start the old girl. I'm glad i don't have a modern rangie with all those warning lights and clever ecu's yes i appreciate that i need a newun but wanted to sort the problem first before i knacker another battery
so i finally went through battey drain checks.. i'm getting a 110 ma draw with everything connected and alarm armed, lpg system is using 40ma alarm seems to be using 0-10 ma fluctuating while armed and int lights/clock etc using 30ma could someone with more knowledge advise whether this amount of current draw is accetable please

I have no idea if it is exceptable or not, but here is some maths....

assume a 75A Battery when good and full charge etc....

Looking at your figures you are drawing 0.2A per hour (add all the Milli Amps up!!)

Divide 75 by 0.2 = 375

375 divided by 24 (hours in a day) = 15.625 days before the battery is totally shot...which is what you have found out with your previous good/new battery....


How this relates to what it should do I don't know...but I would like a battery to last 3 weeks minimum between uses...so I can only assume there is excessive drain somewhere....

Basically your not looking for much more than 50 mA with everything connected.
Not sure how you have measured the LPG/lights etc but what you need to do is is have all the doors closed or switches pressed/disconnectd to allow access to the fuse box without activating the interior lights (don't worry about c/locking/alarm at this point).
I'm not sure where the fusebox is on a classic but with everything off, leave for half an hour for things to settle with an amp meter connected and visible from the fusebox and remove one fuse at a time whilst looking at the drain, if it makes no difference replace it and move onto the next until the drain drops and this is where a wiring diagram comes in handy to find what is on that circuit.
From experience always start off with anything that was not fitted as standard.
Good luck!