storm99
Spreading Joy & Harmony
So...if i'm following a car in town at 30mph....according to you I can overtake as long as i slow down again afterwards?
So...if i'm following a car in town at 30mph....according to you I can overtake as long as i slow down again afterwards?
You don't need to have the engine running while you're filling it up, but you must have it running to set the final level. This is to ensure that the torque converter, cooler and valve block circuits are all topped up.
The fluid temperature in the oil pan should be between 35 & 45 deg.C when the final level is set and you should first move the gear selector lever through each of its positions to ensure that the valve block galleries are full.
The fluid temperature in the oil pan should be between 35 & 45 deg.C when the final level is set and you should first move the gear selector lever through each of its positions to ensure that the valve block galleries are full.
Well MJA have been and taken her away. They think it might be a dodgy/failed injector rather than the gearbox which would be the lesser of two evils.
Storm99, in answer to your last question. If you're in a 30mph area and the person in front is doing under 30, you can break the speed limit to overtake as long as it is safe to do so and you reduce back down to the speed limit. Case in point would be milk floats/tractors etc. Regards Zubenubi
Storm99, in answer to your last question. If you're in a 30mph area and the person in front is doing under 30, you can break the speed limit to overtake as long as it is safe to do so and you reduce back down to the speed limit. Case in point would be milk floats/tractors etc. Regards Zubenubi
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your help.
I have found a good write up on the internet that someone has done, explaining how to do it etc..
will let you know how i get on ! lol
Hi Guys
Just bought an 53 lpg converted 322 and am experiencing similar probs but setting off is ok. during the the speed range of 35 - 50 in comes a harmonic (rumble strip) vibe and watching the tacho i can see the eng speed hunting up and down. When in manual in 5th at same speed the is the occasional rumble but very minor and no hunting. Do one of you Guru types have an idea? thanks!
Just bought an 53 lpg converted 322 and am experiencing similar probs but setting off is ok. during the the speed range of 35 - 50 in comes a harmonic (rumble strip) vibe and watching the tacho i can see the eng speed hunting up and down. When in manual in 5th at same speed the is the occasional rumble but very minor and no hunting. Do one of you Guru types have an idea? thanks!
That's the torque converter lock-up clutch failing. The 5HP24 transmission doesn't have a torsional vibration damper in the LUC, it has a continuous slip mode instead (approx. 3% slip) - activated between around 25mph and 56mph - which is designed to eliminate the transmission of torsional vibrations from the engine through the driveline. When the LUC begins to fail you feel & hear the vibration.
The most obvious point to spot it is at around 30mph in 4th gear (around 1300rpm) on a slight incline and light throttle in 'D'.
A re-manufactured torque converter costs around £225 and takes 5 hours to replace
The most obvious point to spot it is at around 30mph in 4th gear (around 1300rpm) on a slight incline and light throttle in 'D'.
A re-manufactured torque converter costs around £225 and takes 5 hours to replace
Headbanger
New Member
Hi all
I am thinking of trading in the p38 for a 03/04 l322.
Looking on Autotrader for the last month it appears to me the diesel 3.0l engine is the one having more gearbox replacements/recons than the petrol 4.4.
Is this a fair comment or are they as bad as each other?
Also, is there a way for a layman to tell if the gearbox is on the way out when going for a testdrive?
Thanks in advance.
I am thinking of trading in the p38 for a 03/04 l322.
Looking on Autotrader for the last month it appears to me the diesel 3.0l engine is the one having more gearbox replacements/recons than the petrol 4.4.
Is this a fair comment or are they as bad as each other?
Also, is there a way for a layman to tell if the gearbox is on the way out when going for a testdrive?
Thanks in advance.
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
hi all, appreciate this is an old post but hopefully somebody still watching.
i have the same hunting vibration between 30-50 with light throttle in my 2004 4.4 with 108k
i only just bought the car so not sure of its history but no receipts for gearbox service or oil in with the paperwork that came with it
what would be my first thing to try, oil and filter with a flush or TC or maybe it will just go away on its own.........
i have the same hunting vibration between 30-50 with light throttle in my 2004 4.4 with 108k
i only just bought the car so not sure of its history but no receipts for gearbox service or oil in with the paperwork that came with it
what would be my first thing to try, oil and filter with a flush or TC or maybe it will just go away on its own.........
Drop the oil and filter first (see my how to in the how to section
)This will give an indication of the box....
The vibration on the 4.4 ZF box is caused by a knackered O Ring inbetween two clutch packs in the gearbox, causing a hydraulic pressure leak...search for posts on the subject as it has been covered extensively on here previously, and I have posted photos of the O ring and knackered roller bearings....(photos by a fellow member Bemble/RRPhil)
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
Drop the oil and filter first (see my how to in the how to section
This will give an indication of the box....
The vibration on the 4.4 ZF box is caused by a knackered O Ring inbetween two clutch packs in the gearbox, causing a hydraulic pressure leak...search for posts on the subject as it has been covered extensively on here previously, and I have posted photos of the O ring and knackered roller bearings....(photos by a fellow member Bemble/RRPhil)
hi saint again, i think i may have a post on just about every thread on here soon.
i think i should just get a hotline put in direct to you, is this related to my ATF fluid oil leak?
Quite likely....
I had similar symptoms to you - vibration between 30-50 on light throttle...
When I went to do the oil change, I noticed what looked to be a fluid leak with staining on the sump, I drained the fluid, fitted a new filter and managed to get back in more fluid than I took out..!!!
So far (Fingers crossed) the vibration is 100% better and the Gearbox is behaving itself (apart from going into a cooling down strategy yesterday after a long slog up a very looooong slope between Guildford and the Hogs Back....not steep just long and continuous slog)
The change is simple enough...check out the How To section
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
thats a really good write up, is there a way of removing all the oil from the TC as well with a flush or something?
i know that area quite well, i am a rep covering kent, sussex, surrey, hamshire...
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Yep a full flush using a machine will pull the fluid out of the TC too...be warned, a full flush can cause more issues as new ATF is a very good detergent and can loosen hidden (and harmless) deposits of gunge inside the box and spread it around the system trashing things....so be warned...
A better method is to drain as much out of the sump as possible, fit filter and refill, then run that for a couple of weeks, then do another fluid change (no need to do the filter again) this way the first change replaced about 65% of the oil, then the second will change another 65% meaning you will have diluted the old oil twice leaving about 85-90% new fluid in the box...
Yep it is the A31 Farnham Road from the Station all up the looooong hill to the A31 Hogs Back in 27degC with passangers after an hours running around between a garden centre, pet store and petrol station (People Food, Pet food and Car food
) plus Guildford Town Centre traffic
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
ive posted some pics on the oil leak thread i started if you get chance
i think i will do as you said, drain out what i have and replace filter and new oil and see how it goes from there depending on what i find in the oil
i am quite fortunate that i dont need to drive the vehicle so if its off the road for a bit it doesnt really matter. i also have the clocks out ready to have the pixels sorted and the all comms is on the way so i can trace the front suspension issue
i dont think i am going to run out of jobs any time soon
thanks for your help and advice so far, keep it coming
i think i will do as you said, drain out what i have and replace filter and new oil and see how it goes from there depending on what i find in the oil
i am quite fortunate that i dont need to drive the vehicle so if its off the road for a bit it doesnt really matter. i also have the clocks out ready to have the pixels sorted and the all comms is on the way so i can trace the front suspension issue
i dont think i am going to run out of jobs any time soon
thanks for your help and advice so far, keep it coming
