navigator16078
New Member
hi all
does anyone no what gearbox is fitted to 02 4.4 auto rr
thanks lee
does anyone no what gearbox is fitted to 02 4.4 auto rr
thanks lee
Hi Lee,
The BMW M62-engined L322 uses the ZF 5HP24 transmission.
I rebuild them for a hobby (I have five in my garage at the moment). I'm not sure why you're asking but, just for info., there's 27 different versions of this transmission and the L322 one (1058 000 032) is totally unique to the Range Rover i.e. you can't use a 5HP24 from a Jaguar or a BMW - not even from the X5. They won't fit.
The BMW M62-engined L322 uses the ZF 5HP24 transmission.
I rebuild them for a hobby (I have five in my garage at the moment). I'm not sure why you're asking but, just for info., there's 27 different versions of this transmission and the L322 one (1058 000 032) is totally unique to the Range Rover i.e. you can't use a 5HP24 from a Jaguar or a BMW - not even from the X5. They won't fit.
navigator16078
New Member
thank you i want to change the oil in myn how easy are they to rebuild i have a steamroller for my hobby lol
Make sure that you use Esso LT71141 fluid. It costs £29/litre from a Jaguar dealer
, about £17/litre from a Land Rover dealer, but I buy it in 20 litre containers for the equivalent of £7/litre. Don't even think about using Dexron as it has a different static-to-dynamic friction characteristic which will wreck the controlled-slip lock up clutch in the torque converter (it has no torsional vibration damper). You must use LT71141.When you drain the fluid you'll probably only get around half (5 litres) of the fluid out - the rest is retained in the torque converter, oil cooler & valve block.
When you set the fluid level (via the combined filler/level plug) you must do it with the engine running otherwise you'll be more than a litre down on capacity, and the fluid temperature should be 'warm' i.e. at around 40 deg. C.
Rebuilding the transmission is a piece of cake - you just need one or two special tools making up for compressing the clutch springs etc. but, yes, they're really dead easy to do. An official ZF overhaul kit costs about £140, a pipe set around £25, the fluid about £70, filter £25 and a remanufactured torque converter around £200, so that's less than £500. Land Rover charge £3300 for a remanufactured transmission. Now that's how to make money!
Attachments
Yes, that looks fine.
However, providing you can easily get to a Land Rover dealer, it would be cheaper to buy 6 litres of LT71141 off eBay (£10.99/litre with free postage) and then get the gasket (TYF000110 = £15), the filter (LPW000030 = £28) and the filter O-ring (TYX000100 = 50p) from a Land Rover dealer and save yourself nearly £20 over the £127.70 eBay kit price.
That way you'd be sure to get a genuine Filtran filter too - though the one in the eBay advert may also be genuine. There's a lot of Taiwanese/ROC pattern parts about though.
However, providing you can easily get to a Land Rover dealer, it would be cheaper to buy 6 litres of LT71141 off eBay (£10.99/litre with free postage) and then get the gasket (TYF000110 = £15), the filter (LPW000030 = £28) and the filter O-ring (TYX000100 = 50p) from a Land Rover dealer and save yourself nearly £20 over the £127.70 eBay kit price.
That way you'd be sure to get a genuine Filtran filter too - though the one in the eBay advert may also be genuine. There's a lot of Taiwanese/ROC pattern parts about though.
Yes, its simple enough. You just need a Torx T27 driver and the filler/level plug (35Nm) and the sump drain plug (25Nm) both require an 8mm hex driver. The filler plug can be tight, though, so make sure you can undo it before draining the fluid!
The sump pan is held on with 22 Torx T27 screws (10Nm)
Check the four magnets for excessive metallic debris
and the filter is retained on the valve block by 2 Torx T27 screws (only 6Nm dont overtighten!)
The torque converter, valve block & oil cooler will retain just under half of the units total capacity of 10 litres. You could do another drain & refill at a later date if you were keen to replace more of the fluid than this.
The fluid refill procedure is critical.
The sump pan is held on with 22 Torx T27 screws (10Nm)
Check the four magnets for excessive metallic debris
and the filter is retained on the valve block by 2 Torx T27 screws (only 6Nm dont overtighten!)
The torque converter, valve block & oil cooler will retain just under half of the units total capacity of 10 litres. You could do another drain & refill at a later date if you were keen to replace more of the fluid than this.
The fluid refill procedure is critical.
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
The td6 gearbox is easy to do
Search online
Someone else has already Put a procedure together
The TD6 uses a different transmission (GM 5L40-E)
but the procedure is very similar : http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic1259.html
but the procedure is very similar : http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic1259.html
Hi,
Just wondering if you know the distance measured from the bell housing face to the lugs on the torque converter when fully engaged?
Thanks
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
That's a bit of an old thread and its rare to see Bemble around now but it's a pleasure to read through some of his old posts.
He does know that measurement as I asked him when I did mine and I didn't quite have the TC fully home.
If you don't find out by the morning I'll try and find his email and let you know.
He does know that measurement as I asked him when I did mine and I didn't quite have the TC fully home.
If you don't find out by the morning I'll try and find his email and let you know.
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
This is the reply i got from Bemble when we were putting mine back together
"No, that doesnt look like its engaged on the oil pump drive tangs yet. There should be a 25mm gap between the bellhousing face and the bolt hole face on the torque converter when its on properly. I know it feels like it has slid on but that first engagement is the cast iron pump seal. You need to keep waggling until the pump drive lines up and it will drop in still further."
Copyright of the legend that is Bemble !
I'll try and find my pic that i sent him
"No, that doesnt look like its engaged on the oil pump drive tangs yet. There should be a 25mm gap between the bellhousing face and the bolt hole face on the torque converter when its on properly. I know it feels like it has slid on but that first engagement is the cast iron pump seal. You need to keep waggling until the pump drive lines up and it will drop in still further."
Copyright of the legend that is Bemble !
I'll try and find my pic that i sent him
Thanks for that. I'm off getting the steel ruler out. I don't think it moved any when I hoisted the old engine out but just needed to be 100% sure that it is definitely engaged properly. I know BMW quote 25mm for that measurement for the x5 and they use the same torque converter and the same gearbox, however the gearbox is slightly different (I think at the transfer box end) but perhaps not at the bell housing end.
Right, 25mm it is then. [emoji3]
