mattstevenson2005

Active Member
Hi guys

For those of you that are following my pink drip thread I thought i would start a new one for my flat battery problem, i went out and bought a new battery changer and have charged the battery up to full power and while it was charging i had some time to do some research into why it may have gone flat, one of the main things i found was the possible HVAC fan blower and the Park transmission light staying on i.e. not letting the system go to sleep. Now ive got the car working again i decided to time the time it takes for the blower to stop and the park transmission light to go out. I timed it twice and it is taking between 20-25 minutes to switch off and for the car to go to sleep. Does this time sound about right or does it sound too long? because ive just got the car im not sure if the HVAC wiring harness has been replaced yet.

Sorry for the long post! but i dont want to have another flat battery and if its just the case of changing a wiring harness to stop the problem i will get it done.

cheers
Matt
 
Hi Matt,

Why can't you take the car back to the garage where you bought it? AIUI he's obliged by law to provide you with a warranty, the last thing I'd want it getting my hands dirty days after taking it home.

Maybe not what you wanted to hear but by your own admission you worked your nuts off to save for this car, so I'd expect it to work.
 
Hi Matt,

Why can't you take the car back to the garage where you bought it? AIUI he's obliged by law to provide you with a warranty, the last thing I'd want it getting my hands dirty days after taking it home.

Maybe not what you wanted to hear but by your own admission you worked your nuts off to save for this car, so I'd expect it to work.

Hi woogoo,

Not taking it back is a bit on my part as i live in manchester and the garage is in harrogate which is about 70-80 miles away and because of the rad problem the car is un-driveable for anything above 5-10 minutes away from my house because any longer would increase the coolant temperate and with the coolant system not working properly i don't want any more damage to happen to the system, and the second reason is that i don't really want to return it to the garage is that they have lost my trust as i reported this problem with the rad the first time i viewed the car, and they had it in there garage for 2 and a half weeks while i was waiting to pick it up and they said they could not find any problem with the coolant system even though it was still dripping the 3 times i visited the garage while they had it and i pointed it out every time, it was even dripping when i went to pick it up. So im at bit wary about getting them to fix it as im not 100% that they will do a good job and use genuine parts etc.. i dont want them to just put radweld in the rad to try and solve the problem and then say they have fixed the problem for it to only cause other problems later on! I would rather get it done at my local independent land rover garage which i can keep an eye on while they are doing the repair.

If i have any other major problems i will be getting on to trading standards about the garage and get them to refund all the money i have spent on repairing their problems that they agreed to fix before we picked it up.
 
You should definitely check that you have the latest design of final stage resistor fitted - the old design was infamous for flattening the battery
 

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I've just been suffering a flat battery on my 2003 L322 - where would I look to find one of those final stage resisters?

Ever since the battery went flat enough not to turn the engine at all the suspension is not going up and down but I'm not getting any warnings.....the trade off for having lots of elec' toys I suppose.
 
I've just been suffering a flat battery on my 2003 L322 - where would I look to find one of those final stage resisters?

Ever since the battery went flat enough not to turn the engine at all the suspension is not going up and down but I'm not getting any warnings.....the trade off for having lots of elec' toys I suppose.

When I reconnected my battery I got the air suspension inactive message, to clear and reset the air suspension turn the wheel full lock to the left then full lock to the right and that should reset the suspension and DSC system, this solved my suspension problem. Hope it helps!
 
Hi guys

For those of you that are following my pink drip thread I thought i would start a new one for my flat battery problem, i went out and bought a new battery changer and have charged the battery up to full power and while it was charging i had some time to do some research into why it may have gone flat, one of the main things i found was the possible HVAC fan blower and the Park transmission light staying on i.e. not letting the system go to sleep. Now ive got the car working again i decided to time the time it takes for the blower to stop and the park transmission light to go out. I timed it twice and it is taking between 20-25 minutes to switch off and for the car to go to sleep. Does this time sound about right or does it sound too long? because ive just got the car im not sure if the HVAC wiring harness has been replaced yet.

Sorry for the long post! but i dont want to have another flat battery and if its just the case of changing a wiring harness to stop the problem i will get it done.

cheers
Matt


Make the garage take it back. You don't know how long the bloody thing has been loosing coolant, it may have overheated before you got and you are in for all sorts of trouble. It's up to the garage to collect it.
If you let them off the hook or start DIY ing it you are stuffed:eek:
Make them fix all the problems while they are at it.
 
Does any one know if 20-25 minutes is correct amount of time for the fan blower and transmission light to go out and for the car to go to sleep??
 
Matt,
When you "Fan Blower" I assume you mean the Coolin fan (Engine) as its Temperature controlled & yer leaking rad fluid .... I think the 2 are very much connected ....as the fan only stops when the thermostat contact breaks the circuit if yer engine is HOTTER than normal it will take longer to cool down ..hence the fan running/cooling it longer ....

this would also account for the transmission light being on longer as well (as the car won't "Sleep" while its got "Something" i.e. Cooling fan running) to do
 
Matt,
When you "Fan Blower" I assume you mean the Coolin fan (Engine) as its Temperature controlled & yer leaking rad fluid .... I think the 2 are very much connected ....as the fan only stops when the thermostat contact breaks the circuit if yer engine is HOTTER than normal it will take longer to cool down ..hence the fan running/cooling it longer ....

this would also account for the transmission light being on longer as well (as the car won't "Sleep" while its got "Something" i.e. Cooling fan running) to do

What it sounds like is the air con fan running really slowly in the cabin as it starts running as soon as you unlock the car, same with the transmission light next to the P indicator on the centre console it comes on as soon as you unlock the car, but when i lock the car it takes 20-25 minutes for the light to go out. Dont think it to do with the engine fan as it does it even before the engine has been started i.e. as soon as i unlock the doors.
 
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What......?????? Whos this fool!
 
Here`s a bit of hard advise. Take the car back get your money back write it off to experience.
You seem to have `invested` a lot of cash, time and are determined to make this car work for you. But with problems like this, so early on, and a garage that seems totally uninterested, maybe you should that this is not the deal you expected, or deserve.
There are good cars out there, but sounds like this one ain`t it. It is difficult to accept that a long anticipated wish isn`t coming true , but at some stage... Well, better to accept it early rather than later maybe. Sorry, but I do wish you luck.
 
Here`s a bit of hard advise. Take the car back get your money back write it off to experience.
You seem to have `invested` a lot of cash, time and are determined to make this car work for you. But with problems like this, so early on, and a garage that seems totally uninterested, maybe you should that this is not the deal you expected, or deserve.
There are good cars out there, but sounds like this one ain`t it. It is difficult to accept that a long anticipated wish isn`t coming true , but at some stage... Well, better to accept it early rather than later maybe. Sorry, but I do wish you luck.

Cheers mate for your reply, once the rad problem has been sorted it should be ok, ive got a feeling the flat battery problem is a common fault with the HVAC wiring harness that can happen on any L322 range rover and is an easy fix. Ive got 28 days to make my mind up if i want to keep it and if i have any other major problems i will be considering sending it back
 
Well as I said good luck. Keep your options open and try to take a detached view of things. Easier said than done tho! Cheers.
 
Yeah, I agree with gtland, or maybe you could hint that you are considering returning it the next time you have contact with them, it might make them think twice.
 
I find it hard to believe you have bought a new to you vehicle, at what must be considerable expense, it is faulty, and you are even
considering repairing it yourself. TAKE IT BACK TO THE DEALER IT WAS NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE. It is for him to repair and get into a condition fit for resale. As he should have done BEFORE he sold it.
 
Matt,
just to help you reflect I picked
my car up on fri an as you know I've ha a few
problems too. I spoke to the garage on fri and it's being picked up now. Called this morning with more faults mainly the oil and there wasn't an issue. Due to this I still have confidence in the car and garage. Hope it helps.
Rob
 
Matt,
just to help you reflect I picked
my car up on fri an as you know I've ha a few
problems too. I spoke to the garage on fri and it's being picked up now. Called this morning with more faults mainly the oil and there wasn't an issue. Due to this I still have confidence in the car and garage. Hope it helps.
Rob

Hi Rob

I still have confidence in the car but not really the garage, im hoping that once this rad problem is fixed then the car will be ok from then on and after a bit of thought this morning i decided to call consumer direct the advice service, and they have said that if it is a wear and tear problem then the dealer is not responsible to pay for the repair but if it was a manufacturing problem then they are responsible, so from speaking to them then really they are saying if the dealer is willing to give a contribution then that is really all i can get.

Cheers
Matt
 

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