What's the current state of the suspension? with everything you've done are you just left with
The front lowering slowly?
Does the rear raise and lower correctly?
I presume "to much energy" is when raising?
Did you change everything at the same time or in stages?
Reservoir pressure looks fine. As does Temp, unless you left it for a while before taking the readings?
The front lowering slowly?
Does the rear raise and lower correctly?
I presume "to much energy" is when raising?
Did you change everything at the same time or in stages?
Reservoir pressure looks fine. As does Temp, unless you left it for a while before taking the readings?
Oh and is it both front left and right that are slow or just one corner?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
You mean if you don't understand the system then butcher it till it's simple enough for you
You should get a job with the Main Stealers, that's what they did with a mates P38 many years ago and charged him over £2000 for the cockup. ps.your problems would only start if you do,think of headlight leveling and informing your insurance company.Big can of worms if you ask me, not thoroughly thought through.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
+1 ^^^^^^^^You mean if you don't understand the system then butcher it till it's simple enough for you
To fix the air properly would cost £3000+, anything less and your winging it.
If you rely on you car for work I think coils are the way forward. They can be had for £400 now I think.
If you're car is a project / toy and you love pointless gadgets the EAS will give you plenty to do.
If you rely on you car for work I think coils are the way forward. They can be had for £400 now I think.
If you're car is a project / toy and you love pointless gadgets the EAS will give you plenty to do.
I really dont know where you are getting those numbers from, but seeing as you seem to be living in a different planetary system to us humans
.I dont think I have spent anything like that on 3 that had EAS. Total
.Admitted if its already been bastidized it can cost a fair bit to bring back, but even then dont think you would get near that amount.
As for the £400 for springs you are pushing it
.J
Front struts £500
Rear bags £300
Compressor £800
Height sensors £400
So that's £2000 for non genuine bags and struts.
Then you will need new hoses as they rub through and leak.
The tank can rot out and then there is at least two valves I know of. The crappy little air fittings are , I think £25 each so if you crack and loose a olive that's another extra. You can get push fit fittings for 6mm hose for a lot less but they only have a couple threads on so I wouldn't be to confident in them holding well in the valve in the pump, rear arch and front arch as the valve body's are all plastic.
Also the push fit fittings can be a bit leaky in my experience.
So you could renew all that or just fit coils and it will ride exactly the same. Also the battery condition is less of a problem because it doesn't have the feed a circuit with a 70 amp fuse constantly.
The only downside is there are currently no heavy duty rear springs available but if you load the trailer correctly it's not a problem . To qualify that I tow a 2.5ton trailer with a digger and dumper on daily.
Looks like it's currently out of stock
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15394998...z_Dor0AQg2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE
Rear bags £300
Compressor £800
Height sensors £400
So that's £2000 for non genuine bags and struts.
Then you will need new hoses as they rub through and leak.
The tank can rot out and then there is at least two valves I know of. The crappy little air fittings are , I think £25 each so if you crack and loose a olive that's another extra. You can get push fit fittings for 6mm hose for a lot less but they only have a couple threads on so I wouldn't be to confident in them holding well in the valve in the pump, rear arch and front arch as the valve body's are all plastic.
Also the push fit fittings can be a bit leaky in my experience.
So you could renew all that or just fit coils and it will ride exactly the same. Also the battery condition is less of a problem because it doesn't have the feed a circuit with a 70 amp fuse constantly.
The only downside is there are currently no heavy duty rear springs available but if you load the trailer correctly it's not a problem . To qualify that I tow a 2.5ton trailer with a digger and dumper on daily.
Looks like it's currently out of stock
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15394998...z_Dor0AQg2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE
Last edited:
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
see you never addressed the insurance declaration etc,for the site you posted you get the best Chinesium steel and still have warning messages on the dash but hey ho your car and your money.We'll be on the lookout for a 322 dragging it's arse and trailer around Space.
You really are on a different planet, rebuilt mine 2yrs ago for £85 (i think) and still fine.
I hope you dont tow at night
. Nobody ever said you cant tow the weight but other cars drivers may not agree with that at night.And yes we tow lots
.From your attachment.
Note:
Compatibility information provided is intended as a guide only.
If you are unsure please message us before placing your order. (This is a direct replacement rear coil spring kit which completely removes the old air bag suspension. Suitable for all petrol and diesel 2003-2012 Range Rover L322 with air bag suspension) It's without any chip or bypass relay to plug, so most vehicles will display a warning symbol on the dash and "level control system fault/failure" message on the drive display. Don't worry，it does not affect to use, Any good Range Rover specialist could also be able to remove the dash warning messages
No dont worry
.Its people like you that wimp out and are scared of it, that give it a bad name.
I personally am willing to take the maintenance costs to keep a car as it should be, cos funny enough it was part of the reason We have them
.J
I can confirm I have told my insurance and the car has since been through a mot. I think I saw somewhere the springs from the kit I have are made in USA.
My kit came with a plug in box but I haven't used it. It seams ok with just the EAS fuses removed.
As said it only drags it arse if the trailer is not balanced. When loaded properly it's fine and tail does not wag the dog.
My kit came with a plug in box but I haven't used it. It seams ok with just the EAS fuses removed.
As said it only drags it arse if the trailer is not balanced. When loaded properly it's fine and tail does not wag the dog.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
You do realise that your on the wrong forum you want the Series forum now.
Problem fixed:
Firstly thank you to everyone who replied with ideas to correct my problem and apologies I meant to reply several months ago when I found the fault.
After checking and replacing every single part of the system, the problem still persisted leaving only the air lines themselves. As it turned out the pressure relief line that run to the silencer in the boot had a bodge repair carried out in the vehicles past right where it runs above the rear subframe so extremely difficult to see.
It looked like a welding torch was used in the past to free up suspension components and had torced the area. Someone proceeded to use a small line repair with 2 jubilee clips tightened so much that they had crimped the line.
My symptoms made sense all of a sudden, the vehicle could not lower fast enough at the front but could lower ok at the rear as the bodge was infront of the rear section and when the vehicle could not lower fast enough it would occasionally jump itself up extremely quickly as it thought it was beached.
Hopefully that explains it. Lesson to be learnt is do not overlook the physical air lines in their entirety even when logic tells you there is no reason that they would be damaged.
Firstly thank you to everyone who replied with ideas to correct my problem and apologies I meant to reply several months ago when I found the fault.
After checking and replacing every single part of the system, the problem still persisted leaving only the air lines themselves. As it turned out the pressure relief line that run to the silencer in the boot had a bodge repair carried out in the vehicles past right where it runs above the rear subframe so extremely difficult to see.
It looked like a welding torch was used in the past to free up suspension components and had torced the area. Someone proceeded to use a small line repair with 2 jubilee clips tightened so much that they had crimped the line.
My symptoms made sense all of a sudden, the vehicle could not lower fast enough at the front but could lower ok at the rear as the bodge was infront of the rear section and when the vehicle could not lower fast enough it would occasionally jump itself up extremely quickly as it thought it was beached.
Hopefully that explains it. Lesson to be learnt is do not overlook the physical air lines in their entirety even when logic tells you there is no reason that they would be damaged.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
nice one glad you sorted it and a nice cheep fix
