Inkedupload_2021-1-24_13-15-25[1]_LI.jpg
 
This is from the suspension components section of the RAVE manual so I assume it's not related to that.


upload_2021-1-24_16-11-24.png
 
[Ok pic of RHS of car at lowest ride height. The other side is down. Its goes up but this side is allways 3-4 inches higher. The core reader though says the front is lower on the right and rear is lower on the left.

Does the maxidiag elite have the option to calibrate?
 
[Ok pic of RHS of car at lowest ride height. The other side is down. Its goes up but this side is allways 3-4 inches higher. The core reader though says the front is lower on the right and rear is lower on the left.
@steveeasy
good advice/ pictures from mr BIB
another thing i forgot to say was make sure the drive your are trying to calibrate on is flat , and need to be in the same place each time,
i tried to look for a concrete screeded area so stands a better chance of being flat, or i have to be in the exact same place on my drive as it changes.
during the earlier days weeks of getting mine somewhere near useable and not laughable,
i struggled to get my car to raise up in calibration mode, some diag tools raise the car some dont( nsf would be higher by 20 mm.. ish )
so i had to inflate the system to get it square so i could then calibrate it.
as mr bib said re sensors, the track inside it wears and gets corrupt and can have a drop outs so to speak,
so if worn or suspect they can be out of tolerance if the car moves just a wee bit up n down on unevan ground, again causing a kinds of misery.
 
No don't think it does. You can see the mount on the subframe for the doohiggy thingy. 2 airlines, one in one out. and a connector. rusted to bits. wonder if its an early model thingy.
cant see why these height readings are all over the place. need to read them with another scanner. not sure about the Indy now. bit Pxxxxd I went last week after being booked in and got sent away. am booked in this week but wants it for 2-3 days. ching ching and it might not be a lot better.

Steveeasy
 
IMO if the car is calibrated on uneven ground one or more corners could be close to being out of tolerence which when on a level surface become out of tolerence. It has to be on a level/flat surface to calibrate correctly. When on my drive the rear nearside is on a grid while the other 3 are on sunken bits of varying sunkenness :D
 
@steveeasy
good advice/ pictures from mr BIB
another thing i forgot to say was make sure the drive your are trying to calibrate on is flat , and need to be in the same place each time,
i tried to look for a concrete screeded area so stands a better chance of being flat, or i have to be in the exact same place on my drive as it changes.
during the earlier days weeks of getting mine somewhere near useable and not laughable,
i struggled to get my car to raise up in calibration mode, some diag tools raise the car some dont( nsf would be higher by 20 mm.. ish )
so i had to inflate the system to get it square so i could then calibrate it.
as mr bib said re sensors, the track inside it wears and gets corrupt and can have a drop outs so to speak,
so if worn or suspect they can be out of tolerance if the car moves just a wee bit up n down on unevan ground, again causing a kinds of misery.
Yes thanks for this ,good Tips
 
IMO if the car is calibrated on uneven ground one or more corners could be close to being out of tolerence which when on a level surface become out of tolerence. It has to be on a level/flat surface to calibrate correctly. When on my drive the rear nearside is on a grid while the other 3 are on sunken bits of varying sunkenness :D

I am wondering if a couple of weeks ago about when I finished front subframe, the scanner had a hissy fit. lots of weird numbers on screen then went off. thought id wrecked it. about when car went all lop sided. it was on very uneven ground. I wonder if this caused what is happening now, like it recalibrated itself on the uneven ground. will only find out if I get a better scanner.

Steveeasy
 
You may be right about the model year, this is from a 2007 onwards manual. A bit crappy picture but I don't think it's there,


upload_2021-1-24_16-52-19.png
 
I am wondering if a couple of weeks ago about when I finished front subframe, the scanner had a hissy fit. lots of weird numbers on screen then went off. thought id wrecked it. about when car went all lop sided. it was on very uneven ground. I wonder if this caused what is happening now, like it recalibrated itself on the uneven ground. will only find out if I get a better scanner.

Steveeasy

Could well be. Yes a decent scanner will pay for it's self, could well be less than that indi is gonna charge.
 
Got mine from Amazon but I don't think they do the foxwell nt510pro for range rover anymore. A couple of members have tried the NT530 but it didn't work for them.
Not sure what others are still available and which will do the calibration though, perhaps others can help with that.
Luckily my local indi are very good to me so I can get away with a cheap'ish diagnostic tool.
You can get other cars added to the Foxwell software for a price so that may be an option.

Foxwell have the NT510 elite at a reasonable price but you would need to check with them what the difference is between that and the Pro and if it will do calibration, for £107 IMO it's a no brainer.

https://www.foxwelltool.co.uk/whole...-with-one-fre-car-brand-software-and-obd.html
 
Cool, did not spot this post yesterday. Bloody scanner has gone up now, its £230 now or same scanner 2 vehicle 160. missed that good deal.
Steveeasy
 
Think I might be able to solve the bracket issue, been under mine today and the pump for the fuel burning heater is mounted just there (well it is on mine)
 
Hi, This thingy


This is it. . its disconnected but I know what it is now. Heres an update on the woes of the L322 suspension. I had it booked to be recalibrated last week, but when I got there they decided they wanted to do it this week. need car for couple of days. so took car yesterday morning. called me yesterday afternoon, seams they were more keen in criticizing my work changing subframes than dealing with the suspension. The car had MOT last week and failed its test on a knuckle bush with play new bush but when I fitted it it just slid in. so moves forward and back slightly.. suspension inoperative and air bag warning light on. no concerns with any of the work I had done. you will all appreciate there is a fair bit to do changing subframes. new brake cables, all new bushes. new drop links new camber bolts. think ive done well. they did not. Anyway discussed it with them and they agreed to do what I asked them to do. Check wireing, re calibrate(its a 2-3 hour job ) so long shot is they found nothing wrong with wireing or sensors. apparently recalibrated it. drove it down road and it went lopsided again. They think its a knuckle bush that is new and moves very slightly. my work again. they could not do air bag warning lamp(cant get parts). could not change side light bulb, and apparently spent in total 1.5 hours on it. did not charge me cos they cant fix it. why did they then want it for 2 days.

So my reservations about going there were unfortunately well founded. my wife wanted her car fixed and was willing to pay around £1000 to get it sorted. what more can you do. So ts coming home. ill fit 2 new rear sensors. and recalibrate it myself. I was told by them the articulation validity fault was the cross over valve, that now is a pump as above. so that fault must or seams likely to be height sensors. Although complicated, Its hardly space shuttle technology. I don't see any point scrapping a car that has good subframes, good engine and gearbox.looks really good and drives well, but has a suspension problem. ant thoughts appreciated.
Steveasy
 

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