MariusRR said:
I`ll bleed the system some more tonight, and have the errors deleted tomorrow. hopefully, that will do the trick. Will, if I have the time, try to clean the heaters valves as well.
Click to expand...

Well. I tried getting the valves off. After I had just went for a drive. Dumb ####ing idea. Poored cooland from the valve intake on the engine and the damp sat of the fire alarm in the whole building.

Good news, sorta, is that the coolant i spilled on my fingers was lukewarm at best. So still a thermostat-thing I believe. Idiotic thing is that the heater still is cold, and the thermostat is new. I hope deleting error codes tomorrow will sort this out.
 
The stat is still a conventional Spring operated stat and is not dependant on ECU control...

I n normal use, the stat opens as the coolant gets warmer, but doesn't open fully, this is to maintain the system at around 105-108degC - the higher temps aids combustion and emission control.

During hard driving, towing and off roading, the ECU starts to heat the stat element to force it open further allowing more coolant to flow through and cool the engine down....this is the MAP control of the Stat.

Its effect can be seen by accessing the Hidden Menus in the instrument cluster and brinbing up the coolat temp digital readout....during motorway cruising and pootling, the temp is at the upper range, but drive it hard with heavy acceleration etc, you can see the temp changes down to 94-95degC....I have seen mine down to 89degC when spanking hard off road!!

so just clearing the fault will not be an instant cure, but will allow the ECU to better utilise the heated stat correctly.

I started a thread about 18 months ago when I noticed my gauge was doing odd things...I copied a lot of information about the stat and its functions into that thread.

My thoughts are with the dual heater valves, they tend to perish and/or clog up inside!
 
Saint.V8 said:
The stat is still a conventional Spring operated stat and is not dependant on ECU control...

I n normal use, the stat opens as the coolant gets warmer, but doesn't open fully, this is to maintain the system at around 105-108degC - the higher temps aids combustion and emission control.

During hard driving, towing and off roading, the ECU starts to heat the stat element to force it open further allowing more coolant to flow through and cool the engine down....this is the MAP control of the Stat.

Its effect can be seen by accessing the Hidden Menus in the instrument cluster and brinbing up the coolat temp digital readout....during motorway cruising and pootling, the temp is at the upper range, but drive it hard with heavy acceleration etc, you can see the temp changes down to 94-95degC....I have seen mine down to 89degC when spanking hard off road!!

so just clearing the fault will not be an instant cure, but will allow the ECU to better utilise the heated stat correctly.

I started a thread about 18 months ago when I noticed my gauge was doing odd things...I copied a lot of information about the stat and its functions into that thread.

My thoughts are with the dual heater valves, they tend to perish and/or clog up inside!
Click to expand...

I will get the valves out today.

But I thought the ECU locked the thermostat fully open when it was faulty. At least thats what happened to mine now. Emergency mode or something like that. So I hope if I reset it, it will go away and let the thermostat function like it should again
 
I have then checked the error codes. There were none, and the termostat is operating as it should.

I will now try to clean the valves, but find it very strange that the car gets semi-heated the first 10-12 minutes of driving and then turns cold again.

Could there be a lack of coolant still? I have turned the key to pos. 2, topped up with cooland and then startet the engine. Both standing with the front up and flat. And bleed with the bleeding screw. Any other ideas?
 
I can only think there is either an airlock in the system or a leak letting in air...

When left to stand the coolant will obviously pool to lowest levels...this could be filling the Heater Matrix up, so when you first run the car the coolant gets circulated and warmed hence you get heating....after 10 minutes the system is drawing air in through a leak somewhere and this air gets trapped in the Heater Matrix causing an air lock and your heater goes cold....

When you switch off and leave it for a while, the water starts to dribble back into the matrix ready for you to start the car again and get heat...

Does the heat all of a sudden disappear or does it gently fade?

It could even be the Dual Heater Valves closing...there have been reports of coolant getting into the wiring causing havoc with the valve solenoids....when you switch the engine off, the coolant dries out and normal operation resumes, until the leak infects the valve solenoids again!

Worth a look in anycase!
 
Then is must be drawing in air into the system and slowly this air gets trapped in the heater matrix - it is the only thing I can think it to be!
 
Saint.V8 said:
Then is must be drawing in air into the system and slowly this air gets trapped in the heater matrix - it is the only thing I can think it to be!
Click to expand...

How to I check if the radiator is actually leaking? Could be spill from when I fickled about with other things!
 
How does a pressurised system draw air in?? Ref post #5, if the coolant control valve has fried the in cabin controls the valve will not open/close on demand. From what I understand you need to test at the valve for varying electrical values when the temp control know is adjusted/moved to ascertain the knobs/switches are actually working, if they do not vary then they are fooked and the valve will not open/close or adjust as req. just my thoughts?
 
RR Qatar said:
How does a pressurised system draw air in?? Ref post #5, if the coolant control valve has fried the in cabin controls the valve will not open/close on demand. From what I understand you need to test at the valve for varying electrical values when the temp control know is adjusted/moved to ascertain the knobs/switches are actually working, if they do not vary then they are fooked and the valve will not open/close or adjust as req. just my thoughts?
Click to expand...
When it cools down!
 
So, a little update.

The car is running considerably more warm, in regards to the heater problem. Not warm yet, but the termostat was most def broken. I tried taking out the heatervalves. All the torx are corroded, so that is never going to happen. Tried running water through the inlets and it flows through, so not stuck shut at least. Will probably order a new one.

Talked with the local Land Rover shop, and they had come across this before. Some sort of sensor that often acted up in this kind of weather. He`ll get back to me. I`ll get his opinion about the radiator at the same time.

In other news, I have also discovered a small gearbox-leak. Parked in the snow on saturday, and when I moved the car sunday there was a small puddle of yellow residue under the car in the snow. The gearbox-fluid was recently changed, so reckon its that. Now to finding out why its leaking?
 
MariusRR said:
So, a little update.

The car is running considerably more warm, in regards to the heater problem. Not warm yet, but the termostat was most def broken. I tried taking out the heatervalves. All the torx are corroded, so that is never going to happen. Tried running water through the inlets and it flows through, so not stuck shut at least. Will probably order a new one.

Talked with the local Land Rover shop, and they had come across this before. Some sort of sensor that often acted up in this kind of weather. He`ll get back to me. I`ll get his opinion about the radiator at the same time.

In other news, I have also discovered a small gearbox-leak. Parked in the snow on saturday, and when I moved the car sunday there was a small puddle of yellow residue under the car in the snow. The gearbox-fluid was recently changed, so reckon its that. Now to finding out why its leaking?
Click to expand...
Yellow residue? Could be the local cat had a **** under there:)
 
So, the hose from the expansionbox to the radiator was leaking. So they mean thats where the air in the engine, making the heater go cold, is coming from. Not convinced!
 
MariusRR said:
So, the hose from the expansionbox to the radiator was leaking. So they mean thats where the air in the engine, making the heater go cold, is coming from. Not convinced!
Click to expand...

Drove the car for a run on high revs today. After that the heater was blowing considerably warmer than before!
 
I think this is the car I have bought now. Since I have just this problem.
Eliminated the following faults.
-Not headgasket.
-No air in system.
-Not the cable from the center fallen off.

I now have dissasembled half of the car inside to find the fault. And I do not find it.
The pipes running into the heatermatrix does get warm, but only blowing cold air. I have been reading RAVE about how the system works. But I am still not sure.
Is there someone out there that might know?

Does the car first cool the air down, and then heat it? If yes, what flap controls the flow of air?
I tested Point 4 and 5 on the image.

Capture_1.JPG
 
The L322 uses a pair of valves to control the flow into the matrix...these have been known to fail and prevent the heater matrix from getting hot coolant.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
L322 Air Conditioning (I know I know)
Replies
4
Views
425
Girthy
G
K
2005 L322 Transfer Failsafe (3 year problem, still unsolved).
Replies
8
Views
1K
Bemble
B
farriermatt
Water problems 300tdi in a 1985 110
Replies
10
Views
607
farriermatt
farriermatt
Blob
L322 Fixed! - P0046 - Where is the boost control solenoid?
Replies
17
Views
2K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
P
2008 L322 4.4 Cranks but No Start
Replies
2
Views
873
Wazzajnr
Wazzajnr