Steverob83
Member
Modes always set to default. Just normal driving
Steverob83
Member
perfect and many thks , alas seen others that have simply selected the wrong one for normal driving , just wished to check the basics first
in normal ride height have u measured the wheels plse, from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel arch liners in mm’s , that will guide us on how ur RRS is sitting
can certainly talk u through several tests etc that can be done to check the suspension
do u also happen to have a multimeter plse as that will also come in very handy , need to get faults resolved first and then ur code reader should do a re calibration for that height sensor
Steverob83
Member
I'll get all the measurements on tomorrow. Working today till 10pm uk time. And yes have a multi meter
That’s brilliant , thk u as indeed will allow us to gauge what height it’s sitting at
then we can work through the system as required
hope it helps
Steverob83
Member
Thinking about stripping and cleaning the front valve block tomorrow. Iv seen alot people finding that they have stuck valves due to dust from the compressor drier dessicant. When I refurbished the compressor drier last week it was absolutely full of dust from the dessicant
hate To say this but if that’s the case it may have gone round the entire system
in my case I had to replace all 3 x valve blocks , new compressor , , plus blowing out every single air line , also replaced my air tank as it had holes in it
when it gets into the valves blocks they let by , doesn’t effect the solenoids themselves just the seals , really hope it hasn’t as u can spend endless hours getting it all out
just hope the above is useful to u
Steverob83
Member
I'll strip front block down and see what it's looking like tomorrow as that's the one that's causing the calibration to fail. Just watched a video on YT of a guy that stripped his and the cross link valve was stuck in the open position so hopefully mine has the same issue.
worth a try that’s for sure to see if it has any dryer material inside or solenoid not working / stuck
can also talk u through a series of tests if that doesn’t work out, plse let us know how u get on
just Hope this is helping u
Steverob83
Member
I'll try the valve block as first port of call. If it fails I'll be back here picking brains lol. Running out of time now as supposed to be taking the kids away in the caravan next Friday for Halloween but as it stands right now have nothing to tow with.
Steverob83
Member
Front valve block was surprisingly clean. A small amount of residue but no stuck valves. Cleaned out and replaced on the car. Tried height calibration again but still same error message "failed to close front cross-link valve".
Attachments
Steverob83
Member
Measurements
FL 454
FR 468
RL 429
RR 447
Live data Figures
FL Corner Height -7
FR Corner Height 0
RL Corner Height 34
RR Corner Height -32
FL Votage 2.93
FR Voltage 2.20
RL Voltage 2.50
RR Voltage 1.63
FL 454
FR 468
RL 429
RR 447
Live data Figures
FL Corner Height -7
FR Corner Height 0
RL Corner Height 34
RR Corner Height -32
FL Votage 2.93
FR Voltage 2.20
RL Voltage 2.50
RR Voltage 1.63
Steverob83
Member
Rear left was the new sensor
Steverob83
Member
The difference between the 2 rear
RL Corner Height 34
RR Corner Height -32
is concerning me. Surely this is way too far out just to be a calibration issue?
RL Corner Height 34
RR Corner Height -32
is concerning me. Surely this is way too far out just to be a calibration issue?
Yes would agree.
But until you can get to calibration mode you cant do much about it.
J
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
I assume the arm is in the right orientation and not flipped the wrong way, its easy done.
