Porch

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Hello all, after having my Hippo for a few weeks i decided to blank off/bypass the EGR. I put a blanking plate on the manifold, joined the coolant pipes and removed the EGR cooler. I then bunged the Vacuum pipe, removed the two pipes to the solenoid and bunged them with golf tees.
My question is this: One of the two (awkward) bolts that hold the EGR onto the exhaust manifold had sheered off before i even started undoing it (was just rattling around in the bolthole), what i have done is left the actual EGR attached to the manifold but bunged the top with a rubber tip and blanked off the hole where the cooler was. I can feel that low down torque is massively improved as is throttle response in the midrange. Does this sound like the job is done and is it ok to leave it like that. I can't think why what i have done would differ from the EGR removal and i figure if the exhaust manifold is fine why upset it by trying to remove the sheared off bolt.

Thoughts please??
 
you need to remove it fully. Valve can be blocked and not airtight so exhausts will go to engine compartment.
 
Is that definitely the case as there is nowhere for the valve to open to?? I heard just putting a ballbearing in the vacuum pipe on the l series is the same as bypassing it. Just dont fancy drilling a bolt out of the exhaust manifold....:(
 
For a cheap+quick "removal", you only need to block off one of the ends :)


The bolts that go into the manifold can be a PITA - so just fitting a blanking plate between the intake, and the stainless flexi pipe, will do the same job.




Buuut.... as yours has already sheared off, there's a good chance a fair bit of exhaust flow is leaking straight out, not really doing much for the already pitiful performance
 
Cheers DastardlyDan, Its only the head of the bolt that has gone, the manifold/EGR is securely fastened together, I will test the joint with a CO analyser tomorrow to see if exhaust gases are escaping. Performance wise she flies for an L. The intake manifold is blocked, vacuum pipe and solenoid pipes and EGR/Pipe joint. Basically removed the cooler. Have noticed a remarked difference for the better.
 
I have noticed a difference which makes me suspect that the exhaust manifold is holding tight..... Hope so cos do not want to have to drill out the lost bolt!! ��
 
a Carbon monoxide detector won't detect much on a diesel I'm afraid (unless you're throwing out enough soot to make a volcano jealous).

As for drilling out the bolt - I've got a spare manifold off ebay to work on. Much easier ;)
 
Meant CO2 analyser, detects oxygen levels, Carbon Dioxide, Ratios etc.... Been a long day.... :/
 
Thought about the spare manifold option....... Are they easy to get off?? Was struggling to source gaskets to replace the old ones too.... ( still a newbie )
 
- L Series Engine Parts | Discount MG Rover Spares

DMGRS - for all your L series needs ;)

But... just give the gasket a clean, and it's good to go again. Yet to remove the manifold from my Hippo, but taken off loads from L series fitted to Rover 200's, 45's, and MGZS'. The EGR valve is the biggest annoyance, as it reduces access to two nuts behind it. Still possible with it stuck in place however
 
Quick update, used a Flue Gas Analyser (I'm a gas engineer) to get a reference reading from the exhaust then used it around the engine bay particular the exhaust manifold and redundant EGR. Didnt pick up a thing and the FGA detects 1ppm> of CO and CO2. I'm happy that everything is tight.

Thanks for the link DastardlyDan, definitely one for the bookmarks!!!
 
Thought about the spare manifold option....... Are they easy to get off?? Was struggling to source gaskets to replace the old ones too.... ( still a newbie )

I'd imagine shearing a manifold bolt is also highly likely as well, how much of the original erg bolt is left?, there are quite a few gizmos on the market to extract bolts.. but maybe I'd drill it using the egr as a guide for drilling the bolt with a decent has it won't be to difficult keep the bit just a it smaller than the bolt itself so your not drilling the original threads, then extract the rest or even just screw the blank down with self tapper and a washer, maybe use some sealant too..

I left my egr there also as the bolts looked like they would be prone to shearing.
 

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