C

CaptainScarlett

New Member
No problems starting when cold, but when hot if I switch on ignition and allow lights to go out i.e. the choke/cold start initiation, it just wont start, presume flooded and it won't start until it cools down a bit. Most times it will start when hot if I don't give the choke time to come on i.e. by going straight from 'ignition off' to the 'starting position', but even this doesn't work every time. I've had the car for a couple of years now and it's only just started doing this. I'm assuming there's a temperature sensor somewhere that tells the engine whether to bring on the choke or not but I've no idea where this would be. :confused:
Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
Thanking you in advance
 
Had a similar problem on a Peugeot 205GTI - wouldn't start hot and would stall below 3000 RPM when hot. Swapped water temp sensor and all OK.

It was also very thirsty running in that mode.

I cant tell from what docs I have how to get te sensor out, but its a two wire screwed in thing and the manuals says you have to pull the stat out to get at it, so somewhere in that area. Also drain cooling etc.

SHOULD be readable on a code reader.

Frankly if you are not an experienced hands on chappie, get the code read to confirm and let the garage sort it.
 
CaptainScarlett said:
No problems starting when cold, but when hot if I switch on ignition and allow lights to go out i.e. the choke/cold start initiation, it just wont start, presume flooded and it won't start until it cools down a bit. Most times it will start when hot if I don't give the choke time to come on i.e. by going straight from 'ignition off' to the 'starting position', but even this doesn't work every time. I've had the car for a couple of years now and it's only just started doing this. I'm assuming there's a temperature sensor somewhere that tells the engine whether to bring on the choke or not but I've no idea where this would be. :confused:
Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
Thanking you in advance
Click to expand...

Ideally you need to get the codes read. But from the symptoms you describe, I'd say cam sensor is faulty. The engine ECU requires a valid cam timing signal before it runs the engine. The sensor often fails when it's hot. However once the engine is running the ECU knows the cam timing so can continue to run the engine quite happily if it fails. Once the engine is stopped with a failed cam sensor, it won't restart as it can't get a fix on cam timing. ;)
 
Thank you so far. I am an experienced mechanic (agricultural); however all my experience is pre-electronics. I've been thinking about getting a diagnostic tool but there seems to be a wide variation in price (and presumably therefore efficacy?), any advice on this issue? The cam sensor seems to make sense apart from the fact that generally the engine will start when I don't allow the ign lights time to come on and go off again - I say generally because this doesn't always work which would seem to point towards a te sensor fault. I may just have to give in and send it to LR garage, but giving-in goes against the grain!
Thanks in the meantime
 
CaptainScarlett said:
generally the engine will start when I don't allow the ign lights time to come on and go off again
Click to expand...

That, to me, sounds possibly like a partially stuck injector/s?

IE if you give it a few seconds, it's already leaked a quantity of fuel into a cylinder and flooded it.

Or something of that ilk?
 
Gents (especially Nodge68)..............thank you
After a couple of false starts, finally got the correct camshaft position monitor (& OBDII diagnostic tool) doddle to fix; hunky dory. My son had taken to keeping a football in the boot so we could have a kickabout whilst we waited for the engine/CPM to cool down; football is back in the garden!
Finally after much trepidation; I've left the 20th (some might say 19th) century and with a cheap-as-chips OBDI/II tool I'm experiencing a rebirth; Praise the lord (well nae really); praise you guys................my Landy starts. 1st time; every time...............hallelujah!

Seriously.......................cheers

One thing, should I be so quick to delete faults and what is freeze frame?
 
Also.............one of the false starts was being supplied with a crankshaft position monitor, after going through the WS manual it looks like this could also have been causing the non-start problem (it wasn't). Is there any merit in changing out the CKM; diagnostics isn't showing up and fault codes, I'm thinking dropping the sump guard and changing it out is probably less hassle than sending back for a refund
 
You can change the crank sensor if you want or keep it in the car just in case it fails in the future. Glad you are sorted now though ;)
 
Freeze frame is the data that is stored at the time of the fault being recorded, ie engine temp, throttle position, revs etc and yes clear the faults then if it fails again you will have fresh faults. good job it wasn't the temp sensor they are not very handy.
 
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