Hi Both,
I will be using this diagram to help me restrict the flow in the top hose as the heater matrix is not getting warm let alone hot.
I have been trying to find the top hose t piece but can only find the complete set up at around £50.
I will let you know how I get on,
It may take a while as I am on nights .
thank you all Again
Dean
I will be using this diagram to help me restrict the flow in the top hose as the heater matrix is not getting warm let alone hot.
I have been trying to find the top hose t piece but can only find the complete set up at around £50.
I will let you know how I get on,
It may take a while as I am on nights .
thank you all Again
Dean
Hippo
Lord Hippo
If yer heater matrix int getting hot then you have a problem. I int an eggspurt on cooling systems but I does know the heater should get hot. What’s the level of yer coolant like? What does the temp gauge on the dash read? Is the water pump pumping? Is yer heater matrix full of air or does the system need bleeding? Restricting the flow could cause you other problems later on.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
My heater gets toasty hot but only after the cooling system had been bled, cooled, topped up then bled again!! I did it today after I changed the coolant!! The V6 is a pain to bleed and a symptom that it's not bled properly is a cold heater
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Hippo,
The internal workings of the thermostat were removed quite some time ago Matrix flushed out recently, My mechanic thinks the water is bypassing the heater hose and taking the easier route through the larger bore hoses I will only try a temporary restriction to see what happens.
thanks again
Dean
The internal workings of the thermostat were removed quite some time ago Matrix flushed out recently, My mechanic thinks the water is bypassing the heater hose and taking the easier route through the larger bore hoses I will only try a temporary restriction to see what happens.
thanks again
Dean
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
If the guts have been removed from your stat then that is the problem
The stat is a dual valve type that diverts the water through the heater and the oil coolers when the main rad valve is closed. Once the rad valve starts to open, the other valve progressively closes off the heater and oil coolers. By removing the valves the water will take the easiest flow path which I suspect is the radiator!! Hence no heater and possibly an overheated transmission??
How do you remove the guts on a kv6? It's a sealed unit.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It is possible to bend all the valves, springs, capsule and carrier enough to get them out through the large holes, i'v used an empty stat on an engine that was going onto a dyno where only the radiator needed piping. It's of no use on a road car as all the water will take the easy route through the rad!!
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The only way i'v found to flush the system is with the bleed screw. I do it with the engine hot with the cap fitted as it seems to force the air out. Is a pain as you burn your hands and you have to keep stopping to refill the tank. Once all the air is gone, allow the engine to cool but make sure the tank is above the max mark as the water will be drawn in as it cools. Sometimes this needs done a few times to remove an air lock. I've found that revving the engine helps push the water out the thin pipes too.
