The last couple of days i've noticed a knocking noise coming from under the disco. Its hard from inside to place where exactly its coming from. It only happens when driving over bumpy roads / potholes

It hasnt been the weather down here in the west country to lie down on the drive and have a poke around underneath but hopefully will get a chance at the weekend. I'll check the obvious (e.g. loose exhaust mounts), front suspension, etc, tie rod ends, etc. Any suggestions for starting points etc?

i'd start with the anti roll bar drop links

+1 on anti-roll bar drop links! Doing mine this weekend, providing I can get the pigging nuts off!

markomate2 said:

+1 on anti-roll bar drop links! Doing mine this weekend, providing I can get the pigging nuts off!

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Dont bother, just use a 1mm cutting disc on an angle grinder

Yes Im getting near to that point!
The nuts are actually turning, but it looks like (unlike the new ones) that I cant stop the whole nut/thread from turning.
Bit like when a taper joint cracks off before the nut is fully off!
Mark

Its a 10 min job if you use an angle grinder (and that's both sides)

Angle grinder it is then!
Ta!

If it's from the back....Watts Linkage. Front...drop link, anti roll bar Bush, or any one of a variety of bushes.

Hi Just in case you were still working on this, I did both of mine this weekend.
Didnt have an angle grinder, had to do it the hard way, took 2 hours in total!
Here are a few tips.

Soak everything in penetrating oil before you start.
Start with removing the bottom joint first, that way you can swing the ARB downwards and do the top joints.
The replacement tie rods had flats on the "stud" part, the original ones on mine, never been changed didnt (on the lower ones anyway)
Use a small wires brush and clean up the threads where the nut will run, get all the rust/crud out, then spray again.
Use a screwdriver and lever away the rubber gaiter around the lower joint.
JLR love using odd socket sizes, you need a combination of 15,16,18 and 19mm sockets and spanners.
As soon as you undo the nut, the whole thread will start to turn, the lower joints dont have a spanner flat to stop it turning, so you will have to use a mole wrench to hold it, clamp the mole wrench where you removed the gaiter.
If you are lucky the nut will undo, if not, it will bind up on the thread, DO NOT use a longer handle on the socket, it will just spin the mole wrench.
Instead, tighten the nut again, wire brush the thread and try again, you will progressively loosen the nut until it comes off.
When both the lower joints are off, pull the ARB down so you can easily access the top joints.
Repeat procedure, its "easier" on the top ones at the have spanner flats, you can also wedge the spanner against the ground to hold it.
Job done! Home for tea and medals!