For some reason I found the battery completely flat this morning, (good, new-ish battery)
Had to open with the key, key in ignition, ZILCH! dead as a do-do!
Battery on charge for a few hours, then, as soon as I re-connected, down went all the locks! Remote did nothing, so I found an 'access-code' in the hand book ( NOT the original security card) & tried the keycode, SHOULD IT 'CHIRP' AT EVERY KEY-TURN, 'cos mine does, & I've never seen this mentioned on any forums, must have tried over a dozen times, no joy, rang the Rover dealership, who told me that they couldn't help & to call Rover-assist, rang them time & time again, only to be told on an answerphone, that there was no-one there to help!......EH!
Also tried the keycode with EVERYTHING closed, same result, & alarm going off upon opening.
IF the 'CHIRPING' during every key-turn is wrong, what could that be, as I assume all electrical contacts/switches must be ok, or it wouldn't chirp every time.
Its a 96 DSE by the way.

do you know the sequence, look here

note the 4 turns before you enter the code and also the fact you have to have all windows and doors 'set' before you start. the chirping happens when your not doing it correctly!

best to start by removing battery lead, then wait half hour, then reconnect and set all windows and doors, then follow the instructions above!

the cause of the problem is probably the rf reciever waking when someone else uses thier remote for another car nearby!

avoid parking close to others and park it away from wifes/kids cars if on the same drive!

Yes, I do know the correct sequence, BUT, since this happened, as soon as I put the key in ign with the alarm sounding off, not only does the dash tell me about the keycode lockout, it also tells me ALL the windows are NOT set, which of course were originally, plus the fact, that now its in keycode, alarm, imob etc. It wont let me reset them anyway!!
I DID think the 'chirping' indicated something wrong, but I don't know what.
With everything off, everything closed, it chirps at the very first key stroke, then all the subsequent ones as well.
So, no matter what I do, I can't stop the alarm beep at every keystroke.
I also have a Rovacom diagnostic/laptop, but again it won't work until I can deactivate the alarm/imob & get the car into 'normal' mode!
It HAS the latest rf receiver as well

have you had the battery leads of again then reconnected? to try and clear it to a fresh start. also make sure sill locks are down on all other doors and give the bonnet a gentle slam.

Yes, & within a second of connecting, everything clicks & locks, & I have to shut the bonnet before that, or the alarm goes off upon shutting it!
Also, KEYCODE LOCKOUT is on the dash, ALL THE TIME! It never goes off, should it??

I had this a couple days ago after my batt died. Kept chirping when I tried to enter the EKA thingy. I followed some advice on here and disconected my battery for an hour then reconnected it. Then I hooked up some charging leads and left it to charge for a few hours (make sure you don NOT leave your keys in the car if you're planning on charging the battery at all as it locks all the doors and anyone that happens to be inside - funny from the outside).
Then I pulled off the charger and closed the bonnet, locked all the doors and left it for 15 minutes just in case. stick the key in the lock and turn it to the left 4 times, then start your EKA sequence - whatever many times to the right, then whatever to the left, back to the right, back to the left then finally once more to the unlock position. all the doors should unlock. after that - MAKE SURE you try out your fob within 30 seconds of that as this re-syncs it (altho it may be different for different years). now when you unlock it with the fob, you should be able to reset the windows (all the way down all the way up and hold till beep) start the engine, etc etc. only problem I have now is my EAS has dumped it to the bump stops for some reason but hopefully I'll be getting this sorted in the next couple days. Oh, and the small matter of a slipped liner

Well, thanks for your feedback guys, I just found out EXACTLY what you did as well!!
Left it for a couple of hours on charge, had a look & the dash was clear, did the keycode & all is well again!! YIPPEEEE!
The windows reset again as per yours, & the fob works fine!
Thanks again everyone.

hi,i've got exactly the same problem,battery was dead so re-charged it,put it back in and key lockout comes up,so followed instructions as above but nothing,i dont even get the"chirping",could the BECM or ECU need resetting?

ipsos said:

hi,i've got exactly the same problem,battery was dead so re-charged it,put it back in and key lockout comes up,so followed instructions as above but nothing,i dont even get the"chirping",could the BECM or ECU need resetting?

Click to expand...

What I have learnt is that in my case, the 'chirping' was because the bonnet was open, & the ECU was 'telling' me that it would not accept the keycode, trouble was, as soon as I connected the battery, the locks operated & armed the alarm, then as soon as I slammed the bonnet shut, the bloody alarm went off!
In the end, & hooked up the batt, them imediatly shut the bonnet before locks & alarm set, & only THEN could I preform the keycode, no chirps!!

Do your locks operate upon connecting the battery?? (ensure ign key is out)!!

also dont forget, if anyone else finds themself in this tricky situation, you can connect jump leads to the starter motor under the car and then try it, this means the bonnet will be shut and you can put jump lead to another car or battery!

no locks do not operate when i connect battery,the only thing that happens is a bleeping noise telling me "key code lockout" so i wait for that to disapear then try the code sequence only to be told that the windows are not set(whatever the XXXX that means!),so i wind down the windows then back up again and start again and same thing happens or it goes back to "key code xxxxup" again so have to wait 30 mins to try again,i have called Land Rover assistence but they want 130 sobs just to come and look at it!,i'm very close to a Basil Fawlty impression only it will be a baseball bat and not a branch!

make sure battery has enough charge so that it isnt draining all power when using windows. make sure you get the 'rh window set' etc messages and for sunroof. get out the car and follow sequence for eka code

progress of sorts,got the windows set,got out of car,had to wait for" key code lock out "to go,then tried sequence,opened door,"press remote" came up on screen,did that but just said "engine disabled",tried again same thing,then "key code lock out" came back!
so looks like i'll be at the coal face again tommorow,thanks anyway Gavbriggs

when it says engine disabled, was you trying to start it? mine only says that if i try to start it.

dont take this the wrong way but i think you are fecking it up somehow. take the battery leads off over night and retry in the morning, follow the instructions carefully dont forget to do the setting for all windows and sun roof make sure bonnet and boot are closed properly.

might be worth charging the battery too just to iliminate it.

have you followed the link for the instructions on the range rovers.net web site. also dont forget the 4 turns before you enter the code.

hope this helps and keep us informed

yes i will cool off overnight and have another go from fresh tommorow,it did say"engine disabled"when i tried to start it

i'd like to meet the twisted little sadist who thought this system up

better than that meet the smug little **** who gets his to work everytime(ive had plenty of practice with engine bieng shot) he needs it to without any fuss!

so this morning put in newly charged battery,set all windows,waited for "key code lockout to disapear and started eka sequence,completed said sequence and nothing
question:if sequence is successful should this activate something i.e locks all syncing or make a noise?
any input gratefully recieved as i really dont want to lash out for Land Rover to have come out and tend to one of their babies

are you doing the 4 turns before the key code sequence! if not you need to do 4 then yr code. as per the rangerovers.net walkthrough here:

Emergency Key Access ("EKA") Procedure
(Disarming Alarm & Starting Vehicle when Remote is Lost or Fails)

Overview and Instructions
The EKA procedure is provided as a back-up method of disarming the alarm and re-mobilizing the vehicle if all else fails. It uses a series of locks and unlocks with the key in the driver's door lock cylinder. From owner reports to date, this feature seems to be enabled on 1996 and later models in Europe, but not North America or Australia -- but see below for a generic EKA code procedure that works in North America. Iif you have more information on this please email me).

The manuals are vague and contradictory on when EKA might be necessary -- the shop manual says it is if you lock the vehicle with the remote handset and then you lose the remote or it fails. (This is understandable on models with passive immobilization which cannot be started without the remote, but the manuals are enigmatic on why this could happen on vehicles without passive immobilization). You still need the key part of the remote, or one of the spare mechanical keys supplied in later model years.

According to the manual, if the remote has failed or been lost and you try to open the door with just the mechanical key, the alarm will sound twice. (Of course, this does not make sense because you should be able to get into all models quite satisfactorily with just the mechanical key. Perhaps they are referring to situations when the remote has malfunctioned in a way that upsets the BeCM, or the alarm has been set off for some reason). If you then try to start the car, the message center will display "ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE". (This part makes sense on vehicles with passive immobilization, as described above, or perhaps if the alarm has been activated).

Make sure the doors, windows and bonnet/hood are closed, get out and lock the car again with the key. (Note: on 1996 and later models, you have to turn the key to the lock position four times for this step if the remote handset was not used to lock the vehicle). Then turn the key the required number of times according to the following sequence. (At each step the side lamps warning light on the dash will light to show it has recognized the input).

1. To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
2. To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
3. To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
4. To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.

Turn the key to the unlock position to unlock the doors. The alarm will now be partially disarmed; if you try to open the hood the alarm will sound. After five incorrect attempts (3 for 1996 and later models) at this procedure, the BeCM goes into a 10 minute lockout mode (30 minutes for 1996 and later models), during which time the message center displays "KEY CODE LOCKOUT" and further attempts at EKA will not work.
The EKA code is supposed to be on your "security card" but I don't have one for my vehicle and Staffan Tjernstrom, who first alerted us to this information, mentions that getting it probably involves knowing your dealer very well, and maybe a few pints of good beer! Alex Rudd informs me that he has used the EKA method to recover from alarm problems, and that in the UK you can present or fax your owner's log book (or email a photo of it) to a Range Rover dealer to prove ownership, and they will give you the code.


abaove it says to do 4 turns if the fob wasnt used but do em anyway!

Before you splash out a load of wonga, in the right hand footwell behind the kick panel there are 2 white plugs, pull em apart and just check they are not corroded cos your signal from the lock goes through these into the BeCM- if they are, cut them and solder them back together and hoss the plugs away. I`ve sprayed mine with contact cleaner to see if that works first cos the one with 16 wires was corroded to hell.
Thought it was worth mentioning before you splash out

yep,done all that,windows set,pre-code turninig,after code entered once to the right then put key in and "engine disabledpress remote enter key code"comes up.
When i have completed sequence shouldn't doors lock/unlock?mine does nothing'called Land Rover and they have confirmed i have right code