J

Joss-mirff

Member
Hi all, I’ve just replaced an injector seal to no 2 cyl. 3 month as I’ve taken my time slightly lol.
The car is a 2008 Range Rover vogue 3.6 tdv8, all of the lights came on the dash but it would not start, I came to remove the ignition key which would not return fully to the off position and I had depleted most of the battery power, that was last Wednesday, when I closed the door on the garage after putting the battery on recharge, today I am going back out there to check if by some miracle the replenished power will have released the key so that I can reset the alarm/ immobiliser to try to start it, I’ve bought a new battery with 920 caa to fit today, so covering that angle. If nothing has changed and the key don’t come out would anyone advise putting the +p lead to earth for a hard reset ?. Or run a diagnostic route … thanks ….. Joss
 
Joss-mirff said:
Hi all, I’ve just replaced an injector seal to no 2 cyl. 3 month as I’ve taken my time slightly lol.
The car is a 2008 Range Rover vogue 3.6 tdv8, all of the lights came on the dash but it would not start, I came to remove the ignition key which would not return fully to the off position and I had depleted most of the battery power, that was last Wednesday, when I closed the door on the garage after putting the battery on recharge, today I am going back out there to check if by some miracle the replenished power will have released the key so that I can reset the alarm/ immobiliser to try to start it, I’ve bought a new battery with 920 caa to fit today, so covering that angle. If nothing has changed and the key don’t come out would anyone advise putting the +p lead to earth for a hard reset ?. Or run a diagnostic route … thanks ….. Joss
Click to expand...
First step is to fully charge the new battery before fitting it. You can try shorting the + to earth with no battery fitted but it's unlikely to make any difference, so then you will need diagnostics.
 
Joss-mirff said:
Hi Datatek, I believe new bat is fully charged, would think it’ll take a bit more ?
Click to expand...
New batteries are never fully charged when supplied as they will have been on the shelf for a while. Always good practice to charge the battery before fitting.
Someone who knows more about you car will be along eventually, I can only offer general advice as I don't know that model of RR.
 
Hi. Fella’s, put new battery on charge, it did take very little extra charge so after awhile I fitted it ! No difference to removing the key but it is plenty adequate as far as power goes, the key will not return fully to extract it. As if the transmission is not in P, so I tried it in N as well, still same. Coupled up the carpm diagnostic and got one code which it said was up coming U2023, which may point to TCM or lever not pulling cable quite back far enough into P … any idea’s please as my little brains hassle meter is slowly peaking ?
 
Unless gear lever is in park you can not remove the key, if you prise up the gear lever surround there is a black bar on the right of the lever you can lift up to mover lever into park position without having battery connected.
 
Kds, hi, the lever is in P position and registers so on the dash when key is turned to start.
When I first inserted the key, I did not hear the ‘click of acceptance’ that you would normally get if it’s going to start, so I should have removed it then and gone through the mode of new battery and lock unlock procedures till I heard the click. I was too giddy to get it going and just went ahead with an attempt to start, now the key will not completely return to off in order to remove it.
 
I think that if I can get it out and go through the normal procedures of lock unlock to disarm the safety protocol, it will start, if my repair of the injector seal was successful.
 
Hey all, I got the key out but dare not now put it in to try it ! Steering is not locked. Usually when you insert the key you hear the lock come off and disarm the immobiliser ready to start, same when you remove the key you should hear the lock engage, but am not hearing it, tried both keys, could the lock module be seized or the motor gone with steering in the unlock position, so out of sequence to start ? Please anyone heard of this or point me in the right direction… lol …. Help
 
have this problem on another l322, its the steering lock ecu, remove fuse 18 for 30 seconds replace, lock car then unlock and insert key in and turn within 60 secs will allow it to start, if this works then you need to replace the column
 
Hi all, it did not start, all the dash lights come on etc but can’t hear any pump running or prime. If I could put some cold start into the 2 air intakes to see if it will fire up at all, and does, will it point to no power at the pump ?? Is that procedure safe to carry out ? Is there any of our knowledgeable members near South Yorkshire.
 
Joss-mirff said:
Hi all, it did not start, all the dash lights come on etc but can’t hear any pump running or prime. If I could put some cold start into the 2 air intakes to see if it will fire up at all, and does, will it point to no power at the pump ?? Is that procedure safe to carry out ? Is there any of our knowledgeable members near South Yorkshire.
Click to expand...
I'm in Rotherham but I don't know any thing about the L322 only the P38 sorry
 
Hi all, put the reader back on and went into the immobiliser mode which came up with all the programmed info and a fault of “intermittent transponder” any ideas anyone plz.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Radar1946
P38A 12.5 volts and not enough to start engine.
2
Replies
23
Views
1K
Radar1946
Radar1946
feyniriel
P38 key not locking the car
Replies
13
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
K
L322 not starting
Replies
11
Views
2K
backinblack
backinblack
DollyBird
Engine disabled, keys not working, tried the guide “Re-synching the Range Rover P38 diesel engine with the Solved - BECM using a Nanocom” no luck
Replies
9
Views
1K
DollyBird
DollyBird
kermit_rr
L322 keyfob signal not received
3 4 5
Replies
93
Views
6K
kermit_rr
kermit_rr