If there's a good battery, and the bonnet is open, I seem to remember that in LRM Magazine "A Country Garage" or whatever it was called, Mike Manifold described the process of whacking the inertia switch, which was mentioned as a way to open the doors?

Peter
 
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Except of course Peter, the inertia switch is behind the RH kick panel in the P38 and thus behind the locked doors!
 
Different inertia switches for the bags Wazzajnr. Early cars had them mounted above crash cans, later were (IIRC) in centre console or might even have been incorporated into ECU.
 
Different inertia switches for the bags Wazzajnr. Early cars had them mounted above crash cans, later were (IIRC) in centre console or might even have been incorporated into ECU.
Ah, right, I guess the one you are talking about just cuts fuel and unlocks the doors then?
 
Don't think it unlocks the doors, certainly no mention in RAVE that I can see....
 
I'll dig through my back issues of LRM and see if I can find the article and check details.

Peter
 
February 2014 issue, it is a P38 and it says the inertia switch on the bulkhead. The car was locked with the keys in the ignition.

Peter
 
The inertia switch is located behind the plastic trim at the base of the A pillar inside the vehicle!! Wonder what your article is going on about!?!?!
 
Addendum: Just read the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for the 1997 P38....in the Security/Central Locking pages, in the system description it does say the intertia switch unlocks the doors....so I stand corrected....

But it is still on the A pillar none-the-less !!
 
Addendum: Just read the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for the 1997 P38....in the Security/Central Locking pages, in the system description it does say the intertia switch unlocks the doors....so I stand corrected....

But it is still on the A pillar none-the-less !!

Is there another one behind the airbag on the bulkhead, perhaps? Cheaper to replace the glass than the airbag I'd have thought!
 
This post got me out of a heap of trouble as I had a stuck driver's door lock and while trying to free it I trggered the locks with the key still inside. If you want to take the guesswork of working out which wire to ground use a multimeter. Most of the wires will be at ground, one will be at 12V - that's the one to leave well alone. Two other will be at around 6V and one of these will pull up to 12V as you press the tailgate button - that's the one to ground.
 
This post got me out of a heap of trouble as I had a stuck driver's door lock and while trying to free it I trggered the locks with the key still inside. If you want to take the guesswork of working out which wire to ground use a multimeter. Most of the wires will be at ground, one will be at 12V - that's the one to leave well alone. Two other will be at around 6V and one of these will pull up to 12V as you press the tailgate button - that's the one to ground.

Maybe take your postcode out of your post
 

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