I posted about freelander 1 lock being smashed by theives and I have managed to get in etc but, I am off to scrap yard to get a drivers lock and handle for my 5 door. This issue I have is that I charged my car battery up and then pressed the unlock button on fob 5 times and it syncronised but, next day the fob would not work, I have took battery off again and put more charge in it but, still same problem. I don't know if this is correct but, if I disconnect the battery and connect the + and - terminals together it will discharge any power to ECU and control module, and I should leave for 3 days, would this then allow my fobs to resyncronise again. My fobs have new batterys and I have tested that there is power going through the pcb and I have continuity tested the switches and they work too so, I think its the car thats the problem. Sorry for the long post I tried to find a similar post but I could not seemm to be able to use any search for this. Thanks in advance

Your only need half an hour for the capacity to drain when removing the battery.
The module pickup is in the roof for fob locking and superlocking. As for the key the chip inside only Marries the ignition ring. Try using the fob on the tailgate to drop and use the key to raise. If the battery failure get a new one as these play up with the starting and lock sequence.
Uncle nodge will explain better later.
When mentioned that a thief damage the door lock was this the key lock. If so, a replacement key can become extremely expensive for Freelander 1. As they are sold partly with ignition barrel ring in mind, that triggers set the start and alarm device.
There's a cheap way around which nodge can explain and a alternative by keeping the original key for ignition only and tailgate and fuel cap.

Key fob receiver is located under the cowl over the speedo. Try the remote right on the windscreen in this area.

For info the module in the roof is the volumetric sensor which detects movement in the vehicle when alarm is armed.

saxavordian said:

Your only need half an hour for the capacity to drain when removing the battery.
The module pickup is in the roof for fob locking and superlocking. As for the key the chip inside only Marries the ignition ring. Try using the fob on the tailgate to drop and use the key to raise. If the battery failure get a new one as these play up with the starting and lock sequence.
Uncle nodge will explain better later.
When mentioned that a thief damage the door lock was this the key lock. If so, a replacement key can become extremely expensive for Freelander 1. As they are sold partly with ignition barrel ring in mind, that triggers set the start and alarm device.
There's a cheap way around which nodge can explain and a alternative by keeping the original key for ignition only and tailgate and fuel cap.

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Basically the rivers door lock barrel is mashed up as thieves tried to get in and failed so, I can't use the key anymore but its fine for the ignition and can start it etc but, I can not lock it shut anymore. I have checked the batttery on car and its is fine and the fob is fine but, can I heck get it to work. I have been to scrap yard and got a handle and barrel and was thinking if I could get the barrel pins re-aligned for my key.

Probably a good locksmith services can juryrig the new barrel to the old key. Make sure that the new one has the extended cross bar to slot in the locking door module.
Pending on age, the door lock module can fail and easily be removed and replaced.

Seems simple enough ( different vehicle but probably same technique )

Kevm said:

Seems simple enough ( different vehicle but probably same technique )

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Actually that was quite interesting for a change. With a little patience, could be a good technical know how for the site here.