Ambriel

Ambriel

Active Member
OK now that its been confirmed my Hippo has blown its head gasket I need a little bit of advice on parts.

For the most part I have all the bits needed to renew it already, but I don't have any new head bolts.

I understand from here and elsewhere that these are 'stretch' bolts but opinion seems divided on whether these can safely be re-used or whether new ones should be fitted as a matter of course.

Our village mechanic reckons that you should fit new ones, given that they're about £20 a set and it might be false economy to risk re-using the old ones, given the hassle and damage should one snap. Other people have said that they (and Rover mechanics) habitually re-use them.

I'm inclined to follow the advise of our mechanic but wanted to check here before sourcing a set from Ebay.

Also, are all the K series engines the same? Will a set of bolts for a Rover 75 K series be the same as the Hippo? I'm guessing yes but...
 
i've reused head bolts stacks of times without problems but in the case of yer gaylander i'd either, if yer keeping it, get noo uns or if yer going be selling it quickish, bung the old uns back in
 
Thanks for the comments. I think I will buy some new ones.

So, presumably it doesn't matter what car they're for so long as it's a 1.8 K?
 
Ambriel said:
Thanks for the comments. I think I will buy some new ones.

So, presumably it doesn't matter what car they're for so long as it's a 1.8 K?
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No - get the right ones,because of the time/concentration/money used on building engines,just do it right - ONCE. If you have ever built engines commercially you will understand why.ESP with a unit well known for head gasket issues,you want to do all you can to ensure its not going to happen again.That goes for a customers car or the wifes runaround.
 
slob said:
i've reused head bolts stacks of times without problems but in the case of yer gaylander i'd either, if yer keeping it, get noo uns or if yer going be selling it quickish, bung the old uns back in
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I agree with Slob for once.............. ;)


Ambriel - You can re-use the stretch bolts, there is a tolerance limit for them, from memory < 97mm between block face and under flange of the bolt, measured when bolts screwed into oil rail by hand . They are E12 Torx head on them.

Just place the bolts through a piece of card in their corresponding order to the head, then refit in the same order they came out

You should only replace if they are beyond tolerance limits, OR you are fitting the new oil ladder/rack, there were higher tensile bolts made.

Its up to you if you want to fit one or not, I never bothered with the new rail and re-used the stretch bolts.

When you re-torque the bolts you get this concerning noise of metal creeking, apparently they all do that when tightening up.

20Nm phase 1

180 degrees phase 2

another 180 degrees phase 3

you dont even need an angle gauge just mark the bolts to the respective positions in the head after phase 1, the heads have a raised lip, useful marker relative to rotation of 180 degrees for the next two phases.

Do you have a haynes? there was a write up in Car Mechanics magazine a few months back on hgf and how to go about it.

I will post some pics of the home made tools tomorrow, cam locking tool, flywheel locking tool etc
 
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Thanks, I've ordered a new set of bolts now.

I already have the new oil rail so may as well fit it while I've got the top off the engine.

Can you remember which edition of Mechanics had the article? Might try and find a copy.
 
No probs. I had a look on their website and it looks like it was the October edition. I've ordered a copy. Thanks.
 
Ambriel said:
No probs. I had a look on their website and it looks like it was the October edition. I've ordered a copy. Thanks.
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Just make sure it has the bolt tighten/Loosen sequence, I havent seen the article so dont know????

If your stuck someone will post the sequence to follow.

You'll find that once the rocker cover is off, the head bolts are obstructed by the cam lobes, assuming the belt is slipped to the side you can rotate each cam in turn, to access each particular head bolt.

The alternative is to undo the cam carrier, straight forward and just another sequence of bolts, the cam oil seals can be reused, plus cam carrier is bonded to the head with gasket seal.
I removed the cam carrier when I fitted the new gasket. K-series are notorious for oil leaks from the carrier and sump. The two joins dont have fabricated pre-formed gaskets, you use sealant. If Powertrain who manufactured the k-series didnt skimp on sealant in the first place we wouldnt have this problem.

It can take a bit longer when removing the cam carrier, so have a look see if its leaking and if you think you can get at the head bolts by rotating the cams then fire ahead without removing it.
 
Thanks for the tip on the cams. The bolt sequence is in the Haynes 'Book of Lies' so OK there.

Cheers
 
Heres the DIY tools that help make life easy doing the hg repair, exclusive to this thread ;)


The flywheel locking tool bolts into the starter motor housing, sealey sell one for &#163;35 +vat :eek: for all that it is

You only need the cam locking tool at the very end when placing on the belt. There are two types shown in the last attachment. A 10 x 10mm recess in a piece of metal strap interlocks the spokes on each sprocket.

the M5 bolt one interlocks the teeth from the two sprockets

Dimensions are from the centre of each bolt hole.

The two cam sprockets lined up (reading left to right from inlet cam to exhaust cam) <IN -O- EXH> <IN -O- EXH> are under low pressure from the valve springs. They tend not to move although the locking tool keeps it all in check,


If you are removing the sprockets from the cams, a long metal bar with two M8 or M10 strategically placed at a distance of 80mm or so will interlock the cam spokes. This allows some counter leverage from the spanner/socket drive. Just wrap some tape around the two bolts to prevent fouling on the cams.

When the timing belt is replaced, tightened etc , remove all locking tools, rotate the crank several time by hand using the 22mm crank pulley nut. Re-allign the marks as before and re-check. sometimes the marks can be out by a tooth, apparently this is normal
 

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Fooking ell have we got a noo moderhater??? Best behavur frum now on then.
 
Ambriel how you getting on?

Correction to my ealrier post.

The timing marks are the reverse of what I originally posted.

<EXHAUST -O- IN> <EXHAUST -O- IN>

Sorry was going from memory, the old grey matter isnt what it used to be.:eek: :eek:

If you line up the marks 180 degrees out it wont do any harm, just wont start thats all
 
Hi,

Haven't gotten started yet. I have to work outdoors on it and when it hasn't been raining it's been as cold as a witch's tit!

I'm also still waiting for the head bolts to come through.
 
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