R

redrenger89

New Member
2000 1.8 Freelander

As we are all aware this engine has proved to be be a problem

But in the event say of coolant loss with no visible signs where do you think it goes ?

The loss is only minimal and its on my project car which should be well worth sorting out as the car is otherwise immaculate. Only done 28000.

I think it may be ending up in the oil but have no signs of may etc. and oil is clean.

If it is the dreaded head gasket how long does it normally take and what kits and mods should be used.?

I have looked for threads but unlike my p38 there does not seem to be a definative write up or have I missed it ?

Advice would be much appreciated.
 
out the cap or exhaust,worth putting new gasket if got old type ,get kit with new steel dowels,it can be quite normal for coolant to get lost through cap but very slowly overtime
 
Also check where the connections to the oil cooler are on the IRD - it can leak from there as steam and be difficult to spot.
Best way to check is to pressurize the system to about 12psi when its cold,you then get drips,not steam - much easier to see.
 
redrenger89 said:
2000 1.8 Freelander

As we are all aware this engine has proved to be be a problem

But in the event say of coolant loss with no visible signs where do you think it goes ?

The loss is only minimal and its on my project car which should be well worth sorting out as the car is otherwise immaculate. Only done 28000.

I think it may be ending up in the oil but have no signs of may etc. and oil is clean.

If it is the dreaded head gasket how long does it normally take and what kits and mods should be used.?

I have looked for threads but unlike my p38 there does not seem to be a definative write up or have I missed it ?

Advice would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...

If the coolant its getting into the oil you will see it as mayo on the dipstick. It might be getting past the fire ring around the top of the liners and straight into the combustion chamber but before thinking the worst, check all hoses and connections, coolant tank cap, inlet manifold (these can warp and leak) and thermostat housing. Mine had developed a very slight leak from here while parked up (sorned) but its an easy fix.

If you do need to replace the HG its easy enough to do.

Only special tool you need is the cam lock tool
Click

If the liners are sitting above the level of the block then replace with the MLS type gasket and fit the strengthened oil rail as well along with a new water pump, cam belt and tensioner.
 
Thanks for all your replies and links

I will by the locking tool thats a great idea better that making one as per instructions in Haynes.

Our Freelander does not have the thermostat mod and I have seen several types any clue as which one to use ?

As for the head gasket etc I see on eBay that there are a number of kits available, anyone used and found a good one?

No obvious mayo and we have just driven 40 miles and the coolant is the same as when we topped it up. It appears to leak only overnight!!!!!!

Confusing

Regards all
 
No ones mentioned the famous inlet manifold gasket :doh:

The gaskets in the inlet manifold are more prone to going 'hard' over time and losing their flexibility rather than the manifold itself warping. If it's being lost here, it will be evaporating as soon as it gets down the block.
 
i was going to mention inlet manifold gasket, but you beat me to it, also water pump can leak undetected, so can the steel pipe rust that goes across the back of the engine to the thermostat housing, and finally, how many posts are you going to start about the same f....ing problem that is the k series?????????????????
 
Looks like coolant is entering the oil as the level has increased slightly.

Top the coolant up and drive for an hour or so checking every 10 mins but level does not drop. Leave it overnight and the coolant level has dropped.

Cant wait to sort this level sensor buisness out
 
burn the pile of ****-or do a ****ing search.

How many more people are going to say my 1.8 has problem what can it be-they are **** and well documented mechanical disasters.
 
Fanatic

Your opinion's are noted , but your aggression and language are totally unnecessary.

I have looked up threads and at present are researching the problem in detail.


This is a Forum where you ask questions and speak to people. I suggest you look up the word "Forum" on the Web for a more detailed answer.

There are many threads relating to the problems I am addressing and a include your sort of language and monosyllabic answers that are misleading or unhelpful.

This site because it is mainly a "Forum" does not have detailed information as can be found at Range Rovers.net where information relating to their problems are found and overcome by owners wishing to maintain their vehicles.

You would not be able to reply to threads in such a manner if it were not for engineers and software writers overcoming the almost insurmountable problems involved.

Engineers like myself have been working on design and production problems all our working lives to enable the end user to have a better product.
Or should we have just said "It's no F......... Good and we should burn it"

Luckily most of the members are very helpful and willing g to pass on their knowledge but many of the comments passed are by people passing on hear say and never having owned one any way or give up.

I know they have problems but this is a "Project for me in my retirement".
The P38 has had it's share of problems too and that's been on the road for the past 16 years or should I have burnt that one when I had EAS problems ?

Maybe you should avoid the Freelander and the Range Rover p38 sections if it upsets you so much.


Just so we all know what the problem is ........

Were you unable to fix yours or do you have some sort of other underlying problem such as not being old enough to drive?
 
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but the problem with the k series and i have one 116,000 miles in a freelander is that no matter what you do to it, with modifications and the like, it is still a design disaster, and although i am embarassed to admit it, it is my fifth vehicle with a k series in it. the 1.4 k did suffer from a failing inlet manifold gasket, but on the whole was a very reliable engine, the aggro starts when they just want to gain a bit more power and start playing with the capacity, and whilst they were very well tuned by lotus and others , they are still a flawed design, but some will always be better than others.
 
on the few freelander heads ive done a few tips,mark up everything that needs marking up even the inlet camshaft cog and exhaust camshaft its also easier for you to see.
on the inlet mainifold there is a metal coolant pipe on the inside there is a ball bearing that often rusts in there so with a screw driver gently prise back the lips holding it in and pop it out this helps later for better flow.
clean cylinder with wet and dry sand paper using wd40,get a flat straight piece of long (wider than cylinder head)metal wrap paper around it spray cylinder face and in even strokes moving up and down head clean the cylinder face.
once all cleaned up put new head gasket and shim on then put a thin smear of wel seal over cylinder head face then fit.
hope this helps
 
Freelance

Thanks for you input and yes its a cow.

When you had yours what mods did you do help with overheating and coolant flow?

I see there are remote thermostat, Coolant level sensors, and EWP mods did you use any of these?

A19kje

Thanks for you input its a great help to speak to people that have actually done the job.

Do you have any preference for the HGF kit as there seems so many aftermarket ones available ?

How long does it normally take you?

What other items do you replace while you are rebuilding.

Thanks both for your answers all I want to do is to sort out my wifes car it is only a project not our main vehicles.
 
aaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh
MLS, fire shim,new bolts and oil rail= still pile of ****

The core issue I believe on the 1.8 is inherent flex- clean it all up get the head skimmed and pray
 
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Fanatic

Whilst we are still talking

This vehicle has not been overheated it looses a slight amount of coolant overnight into the sump. As soon as this was spotted it was not used.

Without prejudice or expletives please explain precisely what you have worked on with the "K" series and what problems did you find whilst you had the engine stripped?

Did you ever use all the mods?

Did you ever overcome the problems?

Apart from you suggestion to burn it what would you do as an engineer to try to overcome future problems?


Your sensible answers would be appreciated
 
Numerous Rover 45/75 and freelander and I'm friendly with a machine shop owner for 17 years so I have K series experience.

I also hold level three NVQ motor vehicle and used to work full time in the motor trade.

The K series particularly suffered from plastic dowels and mastic failure on head gasket.

Inlet manifold leaks

The 1800 in particular suffered tipped liners or burnt into head,loose liners and mastic failure of head gasket of which I'm convinced block flex is a contributing factor

Revised head gasket with fire shim was designed to reduce the issues,steel dowels, I personally thing the oil rail is a bit of a red herring.

My advice is fit uprated gasket, fire shim and oil rail if you wish, take the suggestions from the guys on here and their wealth of experience.

I have seen several 2002-2003 rovers with 34,000-47,000 with HGF and loose liners and head damage. Forgive my distinct impression that a 1800 k series Head gasket lasts 50'000 if your lucky and sequential failures are common-check liners

This is not by any point exhaustive and we have trawled the joys of k series many times, the v6 suffers liner issues as well
 
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the V6 also suffers, in my opinion, with poor cooling of the rear bank due to limited air flow and poor design.
 
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