Alibro

Well-Known Member
Hi guys
I've been searching here and else where but can't find any threads showing how to replace the clutch in a K series. I'm trying to decide if it is worth the effort as my 04 has a judder and I want to sell it. If I'm lucky the buyer won't even notice the judder but it is sometimes so bad they probably will, so I think I will go ahead and do it.
I know I need to remove the prop shaft and IRD which will mean pulling the drive shafts.
Then I believe I need to drop the engine to make it easier to get the gearbox out.
Does this sound about right?
Are there any How To's around?

Thanks guys
 
I've got to change the clutch on my project K Series. I'm sure I've found stuff on here about it - but maybe it was just YouTube. I've also read Rave which does make it sound a very lengthy process - but then they do go down to 'bolt' level so it always sounds worse. I didn't think the engine needs removing from its mount - more just jacking to support.

I think though if you are up for it and have a hoist - people who do it frequently (ie as a job) recon its best to remove the engine/box/IRD as a single lump then split once its out.

I wouldn't necessarily remove the drive shafts if you don't have to - unbolting the struts to angle them back and pull the shafts out of the IRD/box should hopefully be OK - that's definitely OK for drivers side and the IRD removal.
 
Thanks Grumpy
I've also ordered a Haynes manual for it so will see what it says.
I'm hoping to make a start on it this weekend but doubt I'll finish it as got a lot on.
I watched a video of a guy taking it out without removing the ird but he didn't show it going back in. Others have said it would be nearly impossible to do.
 
Yeh, it must be a hell of a job getting all that weight aligned to mate up to the engine and IRD in 1 go - there's also 1 both that's difficult to access with the IRD in place I believe.

I've got the IRD off mine, but haven't got any further. Someone has replaced the IRD, box or clutch previously as a couple of the bolts holding the IRD to its support bracket were a bit 'munted'.
 
This is something I may have to do in the future as I'm sure others will. Would either of you be able to make a photo 'essay' of the process and some supporting text? I guess those of us interested would save/watch that thread for future ref'.
 
I've not done it either but I've done it in other cars that state you have to remove subframe and engine/box combined without removing anything but the box

Id pull the IRD, lower the box down and try pull it off with the engine on a jack
 
The Freelander clutch change is onlya bit more long winded than doing a Rover 45 clutch. The box is the same and you need to drop the drive shafts on those too. You need to get the front of the car about 18 inches of the floor, giving room to slide the box out.
Basically you have to remove the IRD from it's normal position. This is so you can pull it's splines from the gearbox. The front suspension needs semi stripping to allow room for the drive shafts to be pulled out. I'd completely remove the left front suspension as it makes room to get the box out. There's no need to remove engine mounts but you will need to support the engine on the gearbox end of the sump, using a trolley jack. This allows you to adjust the hight of the engine, giving wiggle room.
Remember that the box weight is about 30Kgs so some assistance is needed. I always put some thick carpet under the box to give it a soft landing, should it get dropped.
Refitting is basically a reversal of the removal procedure. However before fitting the box you need to clear and lubricate the box input shaft and the nose slide. This helps prevent the bearing from sticking when the clutch is released. All clutch contact points points need lubrication with a Moly based grease. These are the bearing slide, the fork ends and the release shaft that often goes stiff.
In fact the lack of correct lubricant on these points is often the cause of the judder in the first place.
I've some pictures on this subject somewhere. I'll look them out later.
 
The Freelander clutch change is only a bit more long winded than doing a Rover 45 clutch. The box is the same and you need to drop the drive shafts on those too. You need to get the front of the car about 18 inches of the floor, giving room to slide the box out.
Basically you have to remove the IRD from it's normal position. This is so you can pull it's splines from the gearbox. The front suspension needs semi stripping to allow room for the drive shafts to be pulled out. I'd completely remove the left front suspension as it makes room to get the box out. There's no need to remove engine mounts but you will need to support the engine on the gearbox end of the sump, using a trolley jack. This allows you to adjust the hight of the engine, giving wiggle room.
Remember that the box weight is about 30Kgs so some assistance is needed. I always put some thick carpet under the box to give it a soft landing, should it get dropped.
Refitting is basically a reversal of the removal procedure. However before fitting the box you need to clear and lubricate the box input shaft and the nose slide. This helps prevent the bearing from sticking when the clutch is released. All clutch contact points points need lubrication with a Moly based grease. These are the bearing slide, the fork ends and the release shaft that often goes stiff.
In fact the lack of correct lubricant on these points is often the cause of the judder in the first place.
I've some pictures on this subject somewhere. I'll look them out later.

+ 1 as easy as a rover.

In short:
Top stuff first:
Battery and airbox/ducting off,
Remove earth cables and clutch pipe/cable from arm using waterpump pulley pliers
bellhousing bolts and starter removed ( note leave easily accessible one bolt in and tight as a failsafe)
Remove gear linkages
Loosen gearbox mount ( But dont remove bolts yet)
Loosen engine mount ( wont be removing just allows more wiggle in the thing)

Bottom stuff:
Slacken drive shaft nut if you can get to it through wheel centres if using a big breaker bar ( car in gear/brakes on)
Jack car up as high as you can get it safely with axle stands.
wheels off
shaft nut off
Bottom ball joint out and moved to one side
shafts out (catch oil with something)
If possible get a gear box shaft plug as this will reduce oil leak once shafts are out but also stop the diff from moving
Remove IRD ( with help)
remove rear engine/gearbox mount (not the top one!!)
remove lower bell hosing bolts ( the lowest one may be covered in mud etc so might need uncovering it is there I assure you)
remove flywheel cover ( 2 x 8mm nuts if its still fitted)
block off wood under the engine on a trolley jack and same under gearbox
Undo the top gearbox mount bolts
lower the gearbox side trolley jack so gearbox and engine drop
carefully on the right hand side
undo the top failsafe bellhousing bolt then wiggle the box till it comes loose on the splines then with help slide it backwards on the jack and lower to the floor in the engine bay with carpet as Nodge says
No need to completley remove the box from the engine bay as once you jack up the engine on its own without the box it allows easy access to the clutch and flywheel and the gearbox and clutch arm from the bottom to do as nodge says and grease up the arms and contact points

Just a rough guide It's been a while since I've done a K series and never took photos when I did one so will defer to Nodge if he can find his
 
Brilliant answers guys, thanks
Will try to take photos as I go and with any luck we'll have a How To soon.
 
OK, The decision has been made and the clutch will be changed. Maybe not starting tonight though as I have an unexpected job to do to my daughters car. She had an argument with a fence. :eek: She put a wheel into a verge while passing an oncoming car on a narrow road and went into a tank slapper and through a wooden fence. I don't care though cause she is OK and no big harm done, A friend of hers was killed last week under similar circumstances.

Anybody know how to tell if the flywheel needs skimmed?
 
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OK, The decision has been made and the clutch will be changed. Maybe not starting tonight though as I have an unexpected job to do to my daughters car. She had an argument with a fence. :eek: She put a wheel into a verge while passing an oncoming car on a narrow road and got pulled into the fence. I don't care though cause she is OK and no big harm done, A friend of hers was killed last week under similar circumstances.

Anybody know how to tell if the flywheel needs skimmed?
Glad your daughter is ok.
The flywheel will be fine. The judder will be lack of lubrication on the points mentioned above ;)
 
Thanks pal, She's fine, only her pride hurt, I just spent the evening filling the bumper for spraying tomorrow, in the very place I filled and resprayed a few months ago :mad:. She was very lucky the fence was rotten so very little damage done, and my brother in law owns the field so was able to drag her out of it.
Glad to hear about the flywheel, I suspect the clutch was either replaced before (probably badly) or just had a hard life as it has a towbar and caravan connector.
 
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Thanks pal, She's fine, only her pride hurt, I just spent the evening filling the bumper for spraying tomorrow, in the very place I filled and resprayed a few months ago :mad:. She was very lucky the fence was rotten so very little damage done, and my brother in law owns the field so was able to drag her out of it.
Glad to hear about the flywheel, I suspect the clutch was either replaced before (probably badly) or just had a hard life as it has a towbar and caravan connector.

Good news about your Daughter I put me mums car in a hedge 12 weeks after I passed my test doing the same thing years ago not a fun experience I can tell you!

It might have just been sat for a long time at some point too I had same on an old mondeo and clutch had half seized, once freed off it always juddered
 
LOL, Like I said I had big plans for the weekend which got torpedoed by daughter and been busy since so only thing done so far is removing the prop shaft.
Worse, tomorrow night I'll be working late, Thursday am helping a mate with his broadband and Friday at a wedding so this week is a washout. :(
 
I know how you feel. I'm lucky if I get a half hour.
I'll be glad if my car is running before I'm too bloody old and senile to drive it. Though, to be fair, I must be half way senile to be doing it in the first place!
 

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