htr

htr

Well-Known Member
My clutch is on its way out. It has a slight judder when moving off and it's slipping when accelerating. I've got the parts coming from LRDirect... I prob' should also replace the flywheel but they are a hell of a price.

Can someone both knowledgable and experienced tell me are the fly wheels on the K series 1.8s the same. I've a pretty good one here from a Rover 200Vi - it had the 1.8 VVC engine [so I guess the equivalent to a MG ZR 135?].

I also want to replace the rear main oil seal. Is that quite easy when the g'box and flywheel are out?

Thank in advance.
 
No need to replace the flywheel, unless it's got cracks in the surface. If the surface is damaged, then it can be re-faced by a local machine shop.

When assembling the replacement clutch, make sure the gearbox clutch release bearing is free to slide along the output support tube. Also make sure the release fork and lever are perfectly free to move. I use a sparing amount of moly grease on the release shaft and bearing slides, to keep them moving freely.
 
I think the crank sensor teeth are different on the Rover. @pscan.eu will be able to advise as he is doing a 1.8k automatic conversion and has had to deal with such issues !!
 
andyfreelandy said:
I think the crank sensor teeth are different on the Rover. @pscan.eu will be able to advise as he is doing a 1.8k automatic conversion and has had to deal with such issues !!
Click to expand...
I have the earlier motor with the distributor so there is no crank sensor - pretty sure that's right. Let me know if I'm incorrect on that.
 
Nodge68 said:
No need to replace the flywheel, unless it's got cracks in the surface. If the surface is damaged, then it can be re-faced by a local machine shop.

When assembling the replacement clutch, make sure the gearbox clutch release bearing is free to slide along the output support tube. Also make sure the release fork and lever are perfectly free to move. I use a sparing amount of moly grease on the release shaft and bearing slides, to keep them moving freely.
Click to expand...
If, and I hope it isn't stuffed, but if it's glazed or worse can I use that flywheel off the VVC motor?
 
htr said:
I have the earlier motor with the distributor so there is no crank sensor - pretty sure that's right. Let me know if I'm incorrect on that.
Click to expand...
Hey!

Not sure on the actual issue but the early model has no cam sensor the crank sensor is on the back of the engine (intake side) tucked away, really hard to find when the engine is in.
 
I plan to replace the engines rear main oil seal - I've the part here already. When I separate the IRD & G'box I need to replace that "O" ring as well. Are there any other seals that I would be wise to replace?
 
htr said:
I plan to replace the engines rear main oil seal - I've the part here already. When I separate the IRD & G'box I need to replace that "O" ring as well. Are there any other seals that I would be wise to replace?
Click to expand...
If you're removing the driveshafts I'd replace the c clips on those but you're right the ird main seal needs to be done and personally while you're there is do the throwout bearing and clutch fork they don't fail often but they are cheap to replace so might as well while you are there.
 
xDParis64 said:
If you're removing the driveshafts I'd replace the c clips on those but you're right the ird main seal needs to be done and personally while you're there is do the throwout bearing and clutch fork they don't fail often but they are cheap to replace so might as well while you are there.
Click to expand...
"Throwout bearing" is that the one which comes with the clutch kit?
 
htr said:
"Throwout bearing" is that the one which comes with the clutch kit?
Click to expand...
Hey

Yes it is, it goes on the clutch fork with some moly grease on the contact points, once the gearbox is out it takes about 5 mins to replace assuming this is a manual gearbox of course.

Check the gearbox splines for play (up and down, side to side) if it wobbles, welcome to new gearbox town 😂
 
I believe that the crank sensor arrangement is the same on all K-Series, except for the Rover 75.
There is tooth pattern in the back of the flywheel (opposite side to the clutch plate), except for the Rover 75 where the teeth are cut into the Dual Mass Flywheel, or the side of the torque converter.
I couldn't tell you whether all K series flywheels are identical though. I'm sure that the crank sensor bit is the same but maybe there are other differences. You need to compare part numbers really.
 
pscan.eu said:
I believe that the crank sensor arrangement is the same on all K-Series, except for the Rover 75.
There is tooth pattern in the back of the flywheel (opposite side to the clutch plate), except for the Rover 75 where the teeth are cut into the Dual Mass Flywheel, or the side of the torque converter.
I couldn't tell you whether all K series flywheels are identical though. I'm sure that the crank sensor bit is the same but maybe there are other differences. You need to compare part numbers really.
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
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