P38dseGAV

Active Member
right did a swap with my knackerd volvo t5 for a d2 with recent engine change since then she will not start tries to but just aint having none of it they used the old injectors from old engine put new seals in but she just will not start is there anyone local to abbey hey in manchester that could spare an hour or so helping me i would be much appreciated
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Does it even fire up for turn or two?

Has it ever run since the engine swap?

Was this the same symptoms / problem that caused the engine change to start with?

cheers
 
Pop red ecu plug off and check for oil ingress, also worth checking engine end of the loom round plug under cam cover driver side front, then engine ecu out and see if the top has been removed at some time, if so pop top off and report back.
Well worth checking crank sensor, google hall effect sensor (I think its a hall) and how to test them.
 
I do believe that on a TD5 the injectors have to be timed/coded to the ECU. If they have been put back in the new engine in a different order to the way they were taken out of the old one you're in for fun and games. You'll need someone with a Hawkeye/Nanocom and a good knowledge of how to set up the injectors. There is a good write up here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector Seals.html of how to change injector seals and washers that covers the importance of getting the injectors in the correct sequence.
 
thank you guys well i have had the cam cover off and just laid int on top while i spun her over then after it trying to start i lifted the cover to find what seemed to be exhaust gases coming up so im guessing seals or in worst case a bent valve as when turning over im getting a popping sound from air box noticed it when i removed filter . the reason i was given regarding engine swap was due to water ingress which i can sort of believe as a small amount of water came out of the inter-cooler i also found the front half of the main pulley to be uneven
 
Might be worth while when the cover is off to write down the injector codes so that you can get them checked with diagnostics.
 
injector coding wont stop it starting, has it a good battery, td5 is very voltage seneitive, injectors wont fire if the voltage drops below 10.6v on cranking, if its manual you could try a tow start, also has fuel system been bled properly?
 
OK, I admit my first thought was 'ooh, no camshaft!', and then I spotted it....
I wonder how one of those goes missing?!
 
i wish i knew how it happened my guessing is when they fitted the new engine the timming may have been out as 3 tappets have broke 1 valve visually bent and i took head off and seems there's been some interference between valves and pistons now the question is will i get away with replacing the odd bent valve n broken tappets or will there be other bent things and no shells left i can get a full engine for £465 deliverd ? what you think guys
 
If you've seen and heard the full engine running that's what I'd go for. You could easily spend that much on what you've got and still come across more problems.
 
If you've seen and heard the full engine running that's what I'd go for. You could easily spend that much on what you've got and still come across more problems.
I agree with that the head gasket set and bolts would set you back 1/3 of that cost, and who knows what you might turn up.
Try to take the positives you will have quite a few spare parts in your old engine, hope the head is good then you can clean it up and keep as a spare or sell it on.
 
Engine swap is not too bad.
Use a 2 tonne hoist, a 1 Tonne doesnt have the reach.
You dont need to disturb the gearbox mounts.
Take the bonnet off, its alloy and light, you can easily remove it yourself, by propping it up with the normal prop, then slowly remove the 4 bolts, you can then stand directly in front of it and lift it off.
Leave the inlet manifold on and make sure you fit the inlet manifold to the new one before you fit the engine, its a real pain otherwise!
Worth putting in a new clutch and new spigot bearing.
Also check the front and rear oil seals, change if suspect, easy job with the engine out.
Flush the rad and intercooler while they are out.
Check the turbo on the new one.
If you have time get the injectors properly checked, do the seals, on the new one, anyway.
If you want to really check, drop the sump and clean it out, also the oil pump drive chain and bolt can be replaced.
You could check the mains and big end bearings but that will cost you time and money, as you will have to (you should) replace them and the bolts even if the bearings looks ok.
Timing chain and guides can also be checked, again its your call.
Tip for putting the new lump in, remove the stud that the start fits onto, try to have the engine set at the correct angle before you hoist it.
Leave off the drivers side engine mount, then lower the engine in, let it pivot on the passenger side mount until the input shaft is aligned with the clutch.
Then gently mate the engine and gearbox.
Bolt up, then fit the other engine mounting.
I found this works well if your working alone.
I only had a 1 tonne hoist and it was a right PITA to get it in, pics are on my thread TD5 stripdown and rebuild in the TD5 section.
You should be able to do the swap by yourself in a day, longer if you have to do work on the new one!
Mark
 
Engine swap is not too bad.
Use a 2 tonne hoist, a 1 Tonne doesnt have the reach.
You dont need to disturb the gearbox mounts.
Take the bonnet off, its alloy and light, you can easily remove it yourself, by propping it up with the normal prop, then slowly remove the 4 bolts, you can then stand directly in front of it and lift it off.
Leave the inlet manifold on and make sure you fit the inlet manifold to the new one before you fit the engine, its a real pain otherwise!
Worth putting in a new clutch and new spigot bearing.
Also check the front and rear oil seals, change if suspect, easy job with the engine out.
Flush the rad and intercooler while they are out.
Check the turbo on the new one.
If you have time get the injectors properly checked, do the seals, on the new one, anyway.
If you want to really check, drop the sump and clean it out, also the oil pump drive chain and bolt can be replaced.
You could check the mains and big end bearings but that will cost you time and money, as you will have to (you should) replace them and the bolts even if the bearings looks ok.
Timing chain and guides can also be checked, again its your call.
Tip for putting the new lump in, remove the stud that the start fits onto, try to have the engine set at the correct angle before you hoist it.
Leave off the drivers side engine mount, then lower the engine in, let it pivot on the passenger side mount until the input shaft is aligned with the clutch.
Then gently mate the engine and gearbox.
Bolt up, then fit the other engine mounting.
I found this works well if your working alone.
I only had a 1 tonne hoist and it was a right PITA to get it in, pics are on my thread TD5 stripdown and rebuild in the TD5 section.
You should be able to do the swap by yourself in a day, longer if you have to do work on the new one!
Mark
Great Post :cool:
 

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