High Lander
Active Member
Sounds like a bargain, but will need to get the car sorted before I make a decision whether to go for the moa powa option. That could take some time.
Sounds like a bargain, but will need to get the car sorted before I make a decision whether to go for the moa powa option. That could take some time.
High Lander
Active Member
I think your theory is spot on. Here's a song, just for you:
Ian Dury - There Ain't Half Been Some Clever Bastards - YouTube
Bled it at the filter and pump, stuck on a battery booster, and she fired up second try. Used it as a wheelbarrow to get a lot of wood down from the top of my drive - Landies have to earn their keep even if they're not road legal
The wiring is ****ing shocking. The picture didn't come out but the fuses are wrapped in thick fuse wire, the indicator stalk assembly is half melted along with other plastic parts. There's been some real bodgery gone on to try to fix it which means it's going to be hard to work out how the loom is supposed to look. I'm tempted to buy one ready made. These people look okay:
Autosparks, World leading supplier of classic car wiring looms
Anyone used them before? Was hoping to do the loom myself and save a few bob. Might have to get the wiring diagram and go back to first principles, but then I still need to work out how long everything has to be.
While I'm on the subject of wiring - been thinking of integrating cabling and relays for auxiliary sockets, front and rear spots, and stereo install.
High Lander
Active Member
Very nice job. Is that where the fuses normally live on a 2A? Mine are under the ignition switch.
Thanks
the fuses would normally be on there somewhere on the 2a but only two fuses, i decided i wanted a little more protection so bought an aftermarket holder that carries 6 fuses, only 5 of them are actually in use
i built that harness out of one i stripped from a Disco bulkhead, the colours aren't 100% but are close enough for me, i added extra black wires off a roll for extra earths rather than rely on the panels, only needed to buy one length of green/white for an indicator and scrounged a long length of trailer cable to drag through the chassis for my tail lights
i've no idea how much wire you'd require for a S3 so can't help with that
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High Lander
Active Member
I've been looking at the Wiring Diagram,
It really isn't that complicated. But where are the relays?! Probably why I have so many melted wires in my loom. Could do with a bit of an update I think.
It really isn't that complicated. But where are the relays?!
Probably why I have so many melted wires in my loom. Could do with a bit of an update I think.
pef77
Active Member
no relays and only two of the 35 amp fuses are used... some of the circuits arent even fused and that was how it left solihull, not usually a problem until some tit wires a bunch of fogs or shorts across something then its arc welding using very small cables.. and all the smoke that lucas went to alot of trouble installing in the electrical system escapes and its a bugger to squeeze back in..
High Lander
Active Member
I cross-posted a bit:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/series-3-re-wire-179145.html
Looks like the Autosparks job comes recommended, but by the time I've finished it's more than £225 for the basic loom. Then I have to add in other stuff like spots, towbar electrics etc.
I think I'll make my own.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/series-3-re-wire-179145.html
Looks like the Autosparks job comes recommended, but by the time I've finished it's more than £225 for the basic loom. Then I have to add in other stuff like spots, towbar electrics etc.
I think I'll make my own.
High Lander
Active Member
This bugger's military and I'm pretty chuffed about that. I thought the springs looked heavier than usual.
I have the convoy light switchboard. Weird because it's got civi bumpers, and no tie-downs on the bonnet. How do I check to see whether I have a Salisbury diff?
The previous owner was apparently an electrical engineer. I'm guessing he was an electrical engineer on psychedelic drugs or going through a schizophrenic episode. He's royally ****ed up the electrics. I'm not sure if I can piece this loom back together again because there are so many disconnected wires, bodging and chaos. It's not a big problem, but not sure I can be bothered wiring up the mil spec switchboard - it's a lot of complication and I really don't ever anticipate the need for turning my front or rear lights on and off independently. Would it be sacrilegious to just delete it?
Started stripping out the loom today starting at the front. Removed the front road wheels. It's a lot of fun to work on, but I really need a decent set of imperial tools.
I have the convoy light switchboard. Weird because it's got civi bumpers, and no tie-downs on the bonnet. How do I check to see whether I have a Salisbury diff?
The previous owner was apparently an electrical engineer. I'm guessing he was an electrical engineer on psychedelic drugs or going through a schizophrenic episode. He's royally ****ed up the electrics. I'm not sure if I can piece this loom back together again because there are so many disconnected wires, bodging and chaos. It's not a big problem, but not sure I can be bothered wiring up the mil spec switchboard - it's a lot of complication and I really don't ever anticipate the need for turning my front or rear lights on and off independently. Would it be sacrilegious to just delete it?
Started stripping out the loom today starting at the front. Removed the front road wheels. It's a lot of fun to work on, but I really need a decent set of imperial tools.
big si
Well-Known Member
I think you can unbolt the rear pan to remove diffs on sailsbury axles but on standard diffs they have to be pulled out from the front facing the gearbox.
wiring on a 30 or more year old landy is often screwed, previous owners will have had problems or fitted additions for thier purposes
but your definition of screwed might not match the guys next door and he might keep it limping along, my bitsa still has it's original birds nest wiring along with a few additions of my own, it gets the odd iffy contact now and then that i have to sort out but the smoke is still inside it so that is all i care about
my 109 on the other hand (as you've seen) has a nice fresh wiring harness complete with low mileage smoke installed
but your definition of screwed might not match the guys next door and he might keep it limping along, my bitsa still has it's original birds nest wiring along with a few additions of my own, it gets the odd iffy contact now and then that i have to sort out but the smoke is still inside it so that is all i care about
my 109 on the other hand (as you've seen) has a nice fresh wiring harness complete with low mileage smoke installed
the pictured landrover is an 88" it would be highly unlikely to have a salisbury diff unless someone has been modifying a 109 axle
also going by the rear lights it's a pretty late S3 so it most likely has a late flat bottomed diff, not that makes any difference really unless you decide to strip the diff for rebuild due to bearing size differences, early and late rover diffs can happily be interchanged as complete units
High Lander
Active Member
Ah, so a Salisbury diff is a 109 thing? Thanks for keeping me straight.
Not sure about the evolved mods theory with my electrics. Looks like Freddie Kruger has had a go at it, while drunk. It's all coming out.
Not sure about the evolved mods theory with my electrics. Looks like Freddie Kruger has had a go at it, while drunk.
It's all coming out.
High Lander
Active Member
I've really not been able to dedicate as much time as I'd like to this project. Still - I'm pretty pleased with how little corrosion there is under there so far:
High Lander
Active Member
You'd have to shoot me first - this baby is mine!
I've always wanted to take a car completely apart and put it back together again. Just hope I can remember where all the bits go.
I've always wanted to take a car completely apart and put it back together again. Just hope I can remember where all the bits go.
High Lander
Active Member
Changed thread title to reflect my glacial progress. Small children and a stressful job conspire to keep me away from the beastie. Anyway, got this far now:
Trying to get the seat base assembly out is a bit of a bugger
Trying to get the seat base assembly out is a bit of a bugger
High Lander
Active Member
Right. Floors are out. Seat box out. Tub is almost ready to lift off. I'd ran out of puff, and my teenage helper buggered off home to have his tea so I called it a day.
Chassis still looks good. Rear cross member needs work, or I might replace it.
Air tools make this job much, much easier!
How the hell do you release the sills from the bulkhead?
I have mil-spec dual tanks. I realised today that you need to lift the passenger seat out and fill the second tank separately. Anyone modded this arrangement so you can fuel both of them via the main offside filler?
Chassis still looks good. Rear cross member needs work, or I might replace it.
Air tools make this job much, much easier!
How the hell do you release the sills from the bulkhead?
I have mil-spec dual tanks. I realised today that you need to lift the passenger seat out and fill the second tank separately. Anyone modded this arrangement so you can fuel both of them via the main offside filler?
