1) Remove drivers and centre covers from seatbox
2) Remove gearbox tunnel
3) Remove front and rear propshaft and fasten out of the way
3a) Drain transfer box of oil
4) Disconnect Speedo
5) Disconnect handbrake cable and difflock light cables also breather pipe
6) Undo 13mm nut fastening difflock rod to transfer box (found on top of the t/box)
7) Undo the bottom 13mm nut from hi/lo slector rod...jiggle hi/lo stick about until the rod frees from the bracket.
7a) Remove exhaust centre box
8) Place jack under transfer box - ensure there are no cbales etc still attached to transfer box
9) Undo the 6 x 17mm bolts/nuts which fasten the transfer box to the gearbox. If unsure where the nuts and bolts are, just look at the locations on your new Disco transfer box
10) Place bolts/nuts into a piece of cardboard, so you know exactly what bolt goes where (they are all different sizes)
11) Slide the transfer box away
12) Once transfer box is on the bench, remove handbrake bracket by removing all 4 x 13mm bolts
13) At this point, you may want to use your existing handbrake drum/shoes etc on the new transfer box, so remove now.
14) Put old transfer box out of the way

15) New transfer box - remove existing handbrake bracket.
15a) If you are putting Defender handbrake onto Disco Transfer box, then remove Disco handbrake drum etc now.
16) Now fasten the Defender handbrake bracket to the Disco t/box using the two mounting points at the front of the box.
17) Mark and measure where the existing holes on the t/box meet the Defenders handbrake bracket. This might mean you have to remove and remount the bracket a few times. Check and double check.
18) Drill new holes in handbrake bracket and check if ok.
19) Bolt bracket into place and ensure it is level and secure.
20) If applicable, as per 15a, now fit Defender handbrake drum to Disco t/box

20) Back to Defender. Use 3 x 100mm M10 bolts (with bolt heads removed) and screw into rear of gearbox. These are to act as guides when fitting new transfer box in place.
21) Place transfer box on jack/engine crane and lift and slide into place. This takes a lot of strength and patience if you don't have an engine crane
22) Fasten up bolts
23) Reconnect speedo, handbrake, diff lock light cables and breather pipe. Adjust handbrake.
24) Reconnect hi/lo selector rod to bracket. You may need to adjust this.
25) Fasten 13mm nut on connection between difflock rod to transfer box (found on top of the t/box as No. 5). Again, you may need to adjust this.
26) Reconnect both propshafts and exhaust centre box
27) Fill transfer box with Ep80w90 GL4
28) Refit covers to seat box and gearbox tunnel
29) Take for a drive and make any adjustments to hi/lo/diff lock
30) Ache for two days after if you don't have an engine crane!

Photos to follow
 
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Very interested to see the pics and different stages of work. But most interested in your opinion on the gearing. Alot of talk has it that you lose a lot of low torqe.

As James says, it depends on what you use your Defender for.

In my case I use my Defender as an every day car and the odd bit of Green Laning (please note lo range gearing is unaffected by the Disco transfer box).

I'm also a post '97 Licence, so I don't do any towing.

It's generally made the following differences to the top of the rev ranges (rough guide).

Existing figures are in brackets

2nd gear 20/25mph (15/20mph)
3rd gear 35/40mph (25/30mph)
4th gear 50/55mph (40/45mph)
5th gear 80/85mph (70/75mph)

Cruising along the motorway the noise level at 70mph using the Disco t/box is the same as the noise level was at 55mph using the Defender t/box
 

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