jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
yes
discool
Well-Known Member
As Loctite is a brand name which of their products are u referring too?
For the 3 screws that go through the water jacket the threads require a waterproof thread sealer thats impervious to glycol, so a small tube of Locktite 572 or similar which is a waterproof thread lubricant sealer for engines, I got a tube of the stuff from Halfords and would do loads of screws.. you don't any need a thread lock for the screws.
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Ipcress
Member
Am I whacked or what, can barely tY00iPE....?!!
V8 3.9 Serp TC etc is now mostly back together.
Had to semi drop the sump to get the studded TC in; but have to redo sump now anyway.
What remains is a sump just drained of coolant to clean out, oil fllter prime and install, oil fill, coolant fill, and put back the flywheel halfplate I took off to lock the FL to remove then secure and reinstall crank pulley.
Double booked gaskets to ensure delivery and got spare drive belt. All arrived include standard and not conical fitting oil switch; have sent them a note.
Dizzy position is as was as best as I can tell, it turning clockwise to zero / 12 o`clock on insertion; crank and timing gear all secured by 13mm spanner in the flywheel / cutout and retorqued; No timing light but will see..
Oil pump vaselined and screws soft torqued to spec`timate then loctited. Gaskets sealed with RTV.
Everything reconnected ...that I know of; No spare bolts/screws anywhere apart for those awaiting the flywheel reinstall, so that should be it.
Looking forward to radox .... not in the sump tho this time, having dumped a litre or so of coolant there already in my `Landy workings`...
So tired I left oil filter in walkway tonight as a reminder; oil and coolant caps off and a second reminder in the form of a note on the table for morning saying `DON`T START THE FFFFFFING LANDY WITHOUT DOING SUMP, OIL AND COOLANT`?!!!! ... plus a general check over.
V8 3.9 Serp TC etc is now mostly back together.
Had to semi drop the sump to get the studded TC in; but have to redo sump now anyway.
What remains is a sump just drained of coolant to clean out, oil fllter prime and install, oil fill, coolant fill, and put back the flywheel halfplate I took off to lock the FL to remove then secure and reinstall crank pulley.
Double booked gaskets to ensure delivery and got spare drive belt. All arrived include standard and not conical fitting oil switch; have sent them a note.
Dizzy position is as was as best as I can tell, it turning clockwise to zero / 12 o`clock on insertion; crank and timing gear all secured by 13mm spanner in the flywheel / cutout and retorqued; No timing light but will see..
Oil pump vaselined and screws soft torqued to spec`timate then loctited. Gaskets sealed with RTV.
Everything reconnected ...that I know of; No spare bolts/screws anywhere apart for those awaiting the flywheel reinstall, so that should be it.
Looking forward to radox .... not in the sump tho this time, having dumped a litre or so of coolant there already in my `Landy workings`...
So tired I left oil filter in walkway tonight as a reminder; oil and coolant caps off and a second reminder in the form of a note on the table for morning saying `DON`T START THE FFFFFFING LANDY WITHOUT DOING SUMP, OIL AND COOLANT`?!!!! ... plus a general check over.
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Ipcress
Member
This very nearly became one complete cockup due to running the engine without the oil pressure release valve installed?! 
... and for all I know it still might turn out to be one. Without a valve installed does that mean zero oil pressure? Certainly didn`t sound as it should to me.
I`d mistaken the OPRV hole for one taking an oil pipe ... and there was nothing in it. How fabulous I thought... or not as the case was.
What made it worse was that its very tricky getting in there and WORSE STILL.... somehow getting the valve in AND securing it with the round circlip whilst in situ; MURDER, ended up taking the oil pipes off again to get a little more space.
Good job I had to remove the sump after breaking the sealant putting in the studded Timing Cover because even after draining it was full of what looked like frog spawn ... literally congealed coolant and dirt/bits from getting the TC off and dropping in at the front.
Filled with oil and coolant (in separately this time) and taking some time to get the coolant to work its way thru the system, lots of pipe squeezing and refilling.
Anyhow, after getting my courage I started her up and let her run for 10 minutes on idle to warm up and she sounded `normal`... as in a normal D1V8 with no tail box
Can`t say there are any `lessons` learned to pass on here because we all do things our own way, but nevertheless thinking your way thru things and perhaps having a checklist wouldn`t go amiss.
Footnote ..: If I have ruined the engine with one small but crucial mistake then c`est la vie, it`ll be rebuilt with a Kent H182 Cam and further upgrades.
So, there`s ALWAYS a Silver Lining
... and for all I know it still might turn out to be one. Without a valve installed does that mean zero oil pressure? Certainly didn`t sound as it should to me.I`d mistaken the OPRV hole for one taking an oil pipe ... and there was nothing in it. How fabulous I thought... or not as the case was.
What made it worse was that its very tricky getting in there and WORSE STILL
.... somehow getting the valve in AND securing it with the round circlip whilst in situ; MURDER, ended up taking the oil pipes off again to get a little more space.Good job I had to remove the sump after breaking the sealant putting in the studded Timing Cover because even after draining it was full of what looked like frog spawn ... literally congealed coolant and dirt/bits from getting the TC off and dropping in at the front.
Filled with oil and coolant (in separately this time
) and taking some time to get the coolant to work its way thru the system, lots of pipe squeezing and refilling.Anyhow, after getting my courage I started her up and let her run for 10 minutes on idle to warm up and she sounded `normal`... as in a normal D1V8 with no tail box
Can`t say there are any `lessons` learned to pass on here because we all do things our own way, but nevertheless thinking your way thru things and perhaps having a checklist wouldn`t go amiss.
Footnote ..: If I have ruined the engine with one small but crucial mistake then c`est la vie, it`ll be rebuilt with a Kent H182 Cam and further upgrades.
So, there`s ALWAYS a Silver Lining
Ipcress
Member
It looks like I got away with it.
Only done 20 miles in two days mainly testing which includes a little off road, runs better than ever AND there also appears to be no oil leaks now to go with the previous zero smoke?! Surely there`s something wrong then?
The shot under the D1 is during a run and standing for a few minutes with engine idling. Before repairing with a new TC the axle would have been covered with fresh oil at this point and beyond... but there are no leaks; the slightly darker bits bottom left in photo are dry tarmac chips and not oil.
Is this a first, and if so what`s the prize?
Thanks for people`s help including the Forums here generally, it all looks good to me and I`ve learnt quite a bit in the process too.
Only done 20 miles in two days mainly testing which includes a little off road, runs better than ever AND there also appears to be no oil leaks now to go with the previous zero smoke?!
Surely there`s something wrong then?The shot under the D1 is during a run and standing for a few minutes with engine idling. Before repairing with a new TC the axle would have been covered with fresh oil at this point and beyond... but there are no leaks; the slightly darker bits bottom left in photo are dry tarmac chips and not oil.
Is this a first, and if so what`s the prize?
Thanks for people`s help including the Forums here generally, it all looks good to me and I`ve learnt quite a bit in the process too.
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