mickbrr

Member
hi all,
I hope there is someone here who can help me with this issue so I know where to look....I have a range rover sport 2.7lt 2006. due to a driving ban last year I put my truck in the garage for 12 months. Upon opening up and trying to start it I found that the battery was flat, therefor I got a big tractor battery around the same size and connected it up via jump leads.....I turned the key and something went pop ? a fuse perhaps ?.....if the donor battery was to powerful what have I blown ?.....there are no lights coming on when I turn the key now.....I have took the battery off to recharge it however I don't think its going to be as simple as that as the pop noise didn't sound right....can any1 tell me the damage I may have done and where I should focus my investigations first off.....the only fuse that's seems to be blown is a 10amp diesel EMS ….I was told to check the main fuse an that they think its a yellow 60amp but this one is ok....any help or pointers lads....my battery was totally flatt so is charging as I write
 
hi all,
I hope there is someone here who can help me with this issue so I know where to look....I have a range rover sport 2.7lt 2006. due to a driving ban last year I put my truck in the garage for 12 months. Upon opening up and trying to start it I found that the battery was flat, therefor I got a big tractor battery around the same size and connected it up via jump leads.....I turned the key and something went pop ? a fuse perhaps ?.....if the donor battery was to powerful what have I blown ?.....there are no lights coming on when I turn the key now.....I have took the battery off to recharge it however I don't think its going to be as simple as that as the pop noise didn't sound right....can any1 tell me the damage I may have done and where I should focus my investigations first off.....the only fuse that's seems to be blown is a 10amp diesel EMS ….I was told to check the main fuse an that they think its a yellow 60amp but this one is ok....any help or pointers lads....my battery was totally flatt so is charging as I write
Was the tractor battery 12 volt or 24 volt?
As long as the battery was 12 volt, it cannot be "too powerful"
Did you get the + to + and - to -?
Did you connect the jump leads to the points stated in the owners manual?
If you battery has stood for 12 months, you most probably wasting your time trying to charge it, Lead/Calcium batteries do not often recover from a fully discharged state.
 
Was the tractor battery 12 volt or 24 volt?
As long as the battery was 12 volt, it cannot be "too powerful"
Did you get the + to + and - to -?
Did you connect the jump leads to the points stated in the owners manual?
If you battery has stood for 12 months, you most probably wasting your time trying to charge it, Lead/Calcium batteries do not often recover from a fully discharged state.


yes it was a 12volt tractor batt 105 amp hrs, the one on my truck is 95 amp hrs that's the only difference in the batts, and yes I double checked the polarity and all correct, the only difference was in the handbook it says to put the negative to an engine mount however this wasn't possible so I put it to the batt negetive
 
yes it was a 12volt tractor batt 105 amp hrs, the one on my truck is 95 amp hrs that's the only difference in the batts, and yes I double checked the polarity and all correct, the only difference was in the handbook it says to put the negative to an engine mount however this wasn't possible so I put it to the batt negetive
There is a good reason for connecting the negative to the engine, but unlikely to cause damage not doing so.
The car battery may be so fecked that it pulled the tractor battery voltage down.
 
yes it was a 12volt tractor batt 105 amp hrs, the one on my truck is 95 amp hrs that's the only difference in the batts, and yes I double checked the polarity and all correct, the only difference was in the handbook it says to put the negative to an engine mount however this wasn't possible so I put it to the batt negetive
Think you need the Yankie J**p sh1te forum if you insist on calling it a truck mate.:eek::D:D
 
There is a good reason for connecting the negative to the engine, but unlikely to cause damage not doing so.
The car battery may be so fecked that it pulled the tractor battery voltage down.
it was flatt like and making the starter click however ive had the battery checked and its fine and green light has come on the charger to show its fully charged now
 
it was flatt like and making the starter click however ive had the battery checked and its fine and green light has come on the charger to show its fully charged now
The green light as you call it does not mean the battery is OK, you say the battery was tested, was that a drop test?
 
green light says its fully charged and it was taken to my dads m8 who has a garage and tested and they said it was ok and its only 3yr old
The green light as you call it does not mean the battery is OK, you say the battery was tested, was that a drop test?
actually ive just checked an the battery is now 7 yrs old so i think its time for a new if i have any more issues with this one
 

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