retneprac

retneprac

Well-Known Member
So had a flat battery (not resolved the lighting issue yet) but tried to jump start from the better halfs car.

Due to the position Landy was parked had to run the the leads across and out the drivers door and over the cars engine to the battery, which is located between the cars bulkhead and engine.

The required 2 sets of leads.

Couldnt for life of me get all 6 contacts working at the same time so couldnt start her up! Had to extract the battery to charge it.

So the question is how the get the lead to lead connection made and who makes extra long jump leads?
 
Just make your own. That's what I did, with an Anderson connector on the end and an Anderson connector on my battery box. I used 35mmsq high quality welding cable and they've never let me down. Should have made them much longer but they are very good for now. Look up 'how to make Anderson connector jump leads' if you're interested. Any of the shelf ones are utter ****e
 
They're only 14mmsq though. I made mine from scratch and it didn't cost any more than 30 quid total. All with very high quality parts and proper Anderson connectors
 
I got some jump leads from halfords, they were pricey but thick and very long ,3.5 metres I think but they are very good.
 
Mine are about 25ft long and made from welding cables with a croc clip at each end.

Had them over 25 years and don't need to use them much nowadays :D
 
If you do want to make your own and it is a very good investment, not to mention a really good set of leads for a fraction of the cost. Check out a seller on eBay called Race Bitz (if that doesn't come up ill double check the name), he sells all of the bits needed, very high quality and at cheap prices. Buy yourself some good quality welding cable in whatever length you want and away you go
 
I also bought some commercial jump leads years ago,
(stop and try to think.....)
about - well, 30 years ago - blimey.
there the soft welding cables type, and have been used so many times.
agree the clamps are heavy duty - and you have to be carefull the live ones dont arc out on anything earthed, but to me they are Irreplaceable.
I also carry some smaller soft cable - but good quality ones in the tool bag of my old disco, not for me, but various others who cant start there cars/vans even motor bikes.

touch wood ;) my old disco always starts
(should`nt say that coz the electrickery gremlins will come and get me)
 
the longer they are the thicker they need to be, voltage drop on 12V is quite significant, the small stuff is ok for 5m max, id go for the thickest you can afford, ie the 35mm
 
I got mine made up when I was working in haulage. The contract electrician did me a splendid set for next to nowt. Worth tapping up a local business, or stopping at a truckstop if you need to go commercial.

In the meantime, a couple of bits of copper bar or pipe are what you want. Jump lead clamps wrap around posts and lead ends, making for a good contact area. They don't wrap around each other. Copper's a decent conductor, although steel will do at a pinch, so connect both positives to one bit of pipe and both negatives to another.

DO NOT USE THE SAME LENGTH OF PIPE FOR BOTH :eek:

That should give you solid contact between leads.

And don't leave them lying in a puddle either.
 
Thanks for the advice.

Thats funny! Was working with me dad when i was knee high, spanner dropped when undoing the battery terminal live, contacted the body, went red hot, then white hot, melted in half and fell through to the floor! So very aware what big sparks can do!
 
retneprac said:
Thanks for the advice.

Thats funny! Was working with me dad when i was knee high, spanner dropped when undoing the battery terminal live, contacted the body, went red hot, then white hot, melted in half and fell through to the floor! So very aware what big sparks can do!
Click to expand...

and thats why you should undo the -ve first :)
 
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