Odd... my D2 had isofix in the outer two seats on the middle row... Was it an option rather than standard?

I cant work out how people cope with children and small cars... we went on holiday in April and had to take the D2 rather than my wife's Volvo V60, as despite that being a sizeable car, by the time we'd put a child seat, the buggy, etc in it there wasnt really enough room for a weeks worth of "stuff".

Compared to the D2, the D3's boot is even more cavernous... which will be really useful for work.

I had a little look into the D2 and isofix, but mine is the base 'S' model, so Isofix weren't fitted as standard, which is a pain.

I have been looking at D3 prices on Autotrader and thinking that selling both the D2 and the Passat, and it could be an option.

One of the main factors for me now is fuel economy. Looking at the figures on autotrader, my D2 gives similar return on fuel, but I'd be more interested to hear what economy you get in the real world.

Cheers
 
I had a little look into the D2 and isofix, but mine is the base 'S' model, so Isofix weren't fitted as standard, which is a pain.

I have been looking at D3 prices on Autotrader and thinking that selling both the D2 and the Passat, and it could be an option.

One of the main factors for me now is fuel economy. Looking at the figures on autotrader, my D2 gives similar return on fuel, but I'd be more interested to hear what economy you get in the real world.

Cheers


Real world economy is town work 20mpg, general running about low 20s mpg, decent run on cruise 28/30 mpg, lots of people claim more but when you look into it they are the 20 quid fill up crowd so its never fill up to fill up, so basically they are guesstimating.
My daily commute is all of 5 miles each way, dash mpg says 22 mpg knock of 10 percent and its about right.
Mines an auto by the way, so manual may give more mog.

Ive had discos right back to the 200 and the mpg is slightly worse with each new model, but D2/3 figures are pretty much equal, a lot of that is because the td5 is a good engine but the 4 speed auto is pants.
 
Real world economy is town work 20mpg, general running about low 20s mpg, decent run on cruise 28/30 mpg, lots of people claim more but when you look into it they are the 20 quid fill up crowd so its never fill up to fill up, so basically they are guesstimating.
My daily commute is all of 5 miles each way, dash mpg says 22 mpg knock of 10 percent and its about right.
Mines an auto by the way, so manual may give more mog.

Ive had discos right back to the 200 and the mpg is slightly worse with each new model, but D2/3 figures are pretty much equal, a lot of that is because the td5 is a good engine but the 4 speed auto is pants.

Cheers Lynall, that's a good post. My D2 Td5 manual, on the standard 235/70R16 highway terrain tyres, I was getting around 35mpg on a long run (motorways/dual carriageways/A roads), and around 28-30mpg on general, which I thought was great. Since swapping to 245/70R16 mud terrain tyres, fuel economy has dropped to about 30mpg on decent runs, around 25 as a general. Not too bad really.
I am torn, but I do really like the D3.
 
Cheers Lynall, that's a good post. My D2 Td5 manual, on the standard 235/70R16 highway terrain tyres, I was getting around 35mpg on a long run (motorways/dual carriageways/A roads), and around 28-30mpg on general, which I thought was great. Since swapping to 245/70R16 mud terrain tyres, fuel economy has dropped to about 30mpg on decent runs, around 25 as a general. Not too bad really.
I am torn, but I do really like the D3.

2 year's ago I sold my beloved D3, going back to a Freelander 1. I still miss the D3 as a people and thing mover, as it was awesome at that. It drove fantastically, once I'd replaced all the suspension arms.
What I don't miss it the constant thirst for parts that it needed. Parts that were very expensive, by comparison to older LR parts.
So I would say, always keep a good contingency fund of a couple of £K in the bank. Apart from the costs involved, they are awesome vehicles.
 
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Cheers Lynall, that's a good post. My D2 Td5 manual, on the standard 235/70R16 highway terrain tyres, I was getting around 35mpg on a long run (motorways/dual carriageways/A roads), and around 28-30mpg on general, which I thought was great. Since swapping to 245/70R16 mud terrain tyres, fuel economy has dropped to about 30mpg on decent runs, around 25 as a general. Not too bad really.
I am torn, but I do really like the D3.


Im assuming the 245/70 tyre is taller than the 235/70 tyre in which case your mpg might be worse than you think!
The D3 is a good car, BUT and thers always a but they can get very dear very quickly, well worth signing up tp the D3 forum and spend a few weeks popping in and reading some of the stories, some people buy some right backs of wnak! best of all when they find out what they have bought you dont see them again so have to assume the car then gets resold!
 
Looks good, I love my D3.........................................even though I have had some scary repair bills.
 
plus , one quick thing i learnt was buying a decent diagnostic reader , thks to @Nodge68 for the gap iid recommendation , fantastic bit of kit , alas are currently £420 but pay for itself very quickly
 
Real world economy is town work 20mpg, general running about low 20s mpg, decent run on cruise 28/30 mpg, lots of people claim more but when you look into it they are the 20 quid fill up crowd so its never fill up to fill up, so basically they are guesstimating.
My daily commute is all of 5 miles each way, dash mpg says 22 mpg knock of 10 percent and its about right.
Mines an auto by the way, so manual may give more mog.

Ive had discos right back to the 200 and the mpg is slightly worse with each new model, but D2/3 figures are pretty much equal, a lot of that is because the td5 is a good engine but the 4 speed auto is pants.

that’s what i’m getting to the gallon , my lieometer is also around 10 percent out to the real mpg

how do u find it in the winter when the fbh kicks in , mine drops to around 12_15 mpg around town and about 25 mpg on a run, then will go up a few mpg when it turns off
 
Looks good, I love my D3.........................................even though I have had some scary repair bills.

I paid £5K for my D3 in August 2013 with full main dealer history and 150K on it. Over the next 2 years and 25K miles I paid over £3K in replacement parts for it. Lots was spent undoing "dealer bodges" and even more spent on repairing or replacing fragile components that shouldn't have failed in the first place.
The list of parts I replaced was huge, many of which really shouldn't have failed.
So I got tired of constantly shelling out on it, so we parted company.
plus , one quick thing i learnt was buying a decent diagnostic reader , thks to @Nodge68 for the gap iid recommendation , fantastic bit of kit , alas are currently £420 but pay for itself very quickly

Definitely the first thing to buy Gary. ;)
 
I paid £5K for my D3 in August 2013 with full main dealer history and 150K on it. Over the next 2 years and 25K miles I paid over £3K in replacement parts for it. Lots was spent undoing "dealer bodges" and even more spent on repairing or replacing fragile components that shouldn't have failed in the first place.
The list of parts I replaced was huge, many of which really shouldn't have failed.
So I got tired of constantly shelling out on it, so we parted company.


Definitely the first thing to buy Gary. ;)

hi mate

ur not wrong there ref where others haven’t done repairs right , taken me months sorting out issues here and there that haven’t been done just right , even silly things like replacing ordinary screws with the correct plastic wheel arch fixings , etc

got the bluetooth iid version soon after i bought the D3 , dread to think what it would have cost if i had to visit a dealer every time, min. £50 each time would have soon added up

next year i intend to fit a split charge t max system, as blimey they are power hungry

like most of us , find the internet such a godsend for parts and being able to compare prices
 
hi mate

ur not wrong there ref where others haven’t done repairs right , taken me months sorting out issues here and there that haven’t been done just right , even silly things like replacing ordinary screws with the correct plastic wheel arch fixings , etc

got the bluetooth iid version soon after i bought the D3 , dread to think what it would have cost if i had to visit a dealer every time, min. £50 each time would have soon added up

next year i intend to fit a split charge t max system, as blimey they are power hungry

like most of us , find the internet such a godsend for parts and being able to compare prices

I had the BT IID too. They sound expensive when initially buying them. However after selling my D3, I then sold my IID for £350. I only paid £380 for mine, so it cost me £30 in 2 years of ownership. You'll not get a better diagnostic device for the equivalent of £15 PA.

I don't know why so many D3s are awash with horrendous bodges. It can only be down to owners not willing to spend out on the correct repairs and maintenance for them.
 
I had the BT IID too. They sound expensive when initially buying them. However after selling my D3, I then sold my IID for £350. I only paid £380 for mine, so it cost me £30 in 2 years of ownership. You'll not get a better diagnostic device for the equivalent of £15 PA.

I don't know why so many D3s are awash with horrendous bodges. It can only be down to owners not willing to spend out on the correct repairs and maintenance for them.

there going for around £420 now and see when they go on sale they sell very quickly , has been invaluable , especially setting up the suspension , along with the new reflash transfer gearbox update that takes that annoying knock in the drive system out , think they called it the california stop , also found the after service second to none

neither do i, things like using insulation tape on wires instead of just cutting them and soldering them properly , so much easier to do the job once and properly , saves a big headache for the future

ie , my compressor was very noisy , the bracket had been cable tied which shattered it, so just replaced the complete bracket , bushes and a new compressor , the difference was huge , used some brass pushfit fittings instead of those horrible voss connectors , also fitted new chassis bracket fixings and some stainless steel bolts , can’t even hear it anymore when sitting in the landy
 

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