brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
At least we dont have to fight the tin worm
Maybe Jesus could "heal" itAt least we dont have to fight the tin worm
there are limitsMaybe Jesus could "heal" it
i'll wager my p38 used less fool than your hippo the last couple of weeks
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Is it broke'd down again?i'll wager my p38 used less fool than your hippo the last couple of weeks
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Hmm yes I had a RRC and to be fair apart from
Rust prone Crossmembers
Bad electrics - Lucas Prince or darkness my binnacle lights were brighter than the headlights LOL
rust prone arches and boot floor
rust prone Front floor pans and bulkheads
Oil leaks
rust prone windscreen frames
Rust prone door skins
And the BL curse
I really don't understand why people think the Classic is cheaper and simpler to maintain A chap had his 1995 Softdash sent in to my old garage to have close to £6000 worth of welding done to it.
I guess it depends on whether you're willing to get stuck in to the occasional diagnostics and electrical repair or try and conquer the rust in a RRC.
In terms of difficulty in my opinion from owning both i'd say the P38 is easier to maintain..
Quite a few misconceptions surround the P38, true there are a fair few threads in the P38 section however almost all the issues are easily rectifiable, also what has to be remembered is the youngest P38 is near 20yrs old so they do need some maintenance..
by comparison there are next to no new RRC threads on LZ thanks to the majority of them rotting away!
RRC = Simpleton friendly for anyone that can wield a welder and a hammer unless you buy a Softdash.
P38 = Still quite simple but banging it with a hammer won't fix it.
I guess if you don't understand something even the simplest things can seem difficult and alien..
Rust prone Crossmembers
Bad electrics - Lucas Prince or darkness my binnacle lights were brighter than the headlights LOL
rust prone arches and boot floor
rust prone Front floor pans and bulkheads
Oil leaks
rust prone windscreen frames
Rust prone door skins
And the BL curse
I really don't understand why people think the Classic is cheaper and simpler to maintain A chap had his 1995 Softdash sent in to my old garage to have close to £6000 worth of welding done to it.
I guess it depends on whether you're willing to get stuck in to the occasional diagnostics and electrical repair or try and conquer the rust in a RRC.
In terms of difficulty in my opinion from owning both i'd say the P38 is easier to maintain..
Quite a few misconceptions surround the P38, true there are a fair few threads in the P38 section however almost all the issues are easily rectifiable, also what has to be remembered is the youngest P38 is near 20yrs old so they do need some maintenance..
by comparison there are next to no new RRC threads on LZ thanks to the majority of them rotting away!
RRC = Simpleton friendly for anyone that can wield a welder and a hammer unless you buy a Softdash.
P38 = Still quite simple but banging it with a hammer won't fix it.
I guess if you don't understand something even the simplest things can seem difficult and alien..
It's not broke but it is getting an upgrade and i don't get much time as outdoors and weather dependent
I had a go in a nice 2012 disco 4. That 3.0d packs some punch and it's quite a nice car. Just a shame it's chewing wheel bearings like a beaver chewing sausage..... If you know what I mean...
I have a client with a freelander 2. Nice car dan. I'd have one for our lass in the auto guise.
