Did my 3rd flush the other day, around 3.5L came out the same went in. Still its quite dark in colour, but more red/marroon than dark brown.
 
Rimmer Bros do both the oil and washer.

Also Texaco Technical Support (Now Chevron) stated:

The Texaco N402 became ChevronTexaco ‘ATF 402’ some years ago.
Unfortunately we no longer sell this grade as a retail product and it is only readily available through your nearest Land Rover dealership - they should know it as 'ATF 402' and I believe it is available in 1Ltr pack (LAND ROVER STC50531 ATF 402 - 12X1L).

The Texamatic 7045E is not a suitable alternative, as the frictional characteristics are different (the ATF 402 was developed specifically for the Jatco/LR transmissions and it contains a number of unique additives).
 
Just drained my auto box (from V6 Freelander 1) at 38 degrees C. Approx 3.2 Litres came out. Will measure the amount needed to refill as accurately as I can and report back.
 
Just drained my auto box (from V6 Freelander 1) at 38 degrees C. Approx 3.2 Litres came out. Will measure the amount needed to refill as accurately as I can and report back.

Can you give an opinion on the condition of the fluid after ? miles.
 
Just for interest, I then left the car to cool down. Unscrewing the drain plug (yes the right one - it pays to do a thorough search of the forum before you do anything in my opinion!) released another 1.1 litres. So 4.3 litres out in total. Replaced this and had to add another 0.5 litres (approx) to get to the correct level, so I figure my box has had 4.8 litres, so a touch over 1/2 has been replaced.

Colour of fluid was grey (middle right box on Grey - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) after 90,000 miles. I doubt it has had a fluid change before, but who knows?

Lessons learnt - drain the fluid when the car is cold. The level varies considerably between cold and 38 degrees (with the box just having been through the gears). So, therefore it is essential that the level test is done at the correct temperature - you all knew that already though!
 
Just for interest, I then left the car to cool down. Unscrewing the drain plug (yes the right one - it pays to do a thorough search of the forum before you do anything in my opinion!) released another 1.1 litres. So 4.3 litres out in total. Replaced this and had to add another 0.5 litres (approx) to get to the correct level, so I figure my box has had 4.8 litres, so a touch over 1/2 has been replaced.

Colour of fluid was grey (middle right box on
Grey - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) after 90,000 miles. I doubt it has had a fluid change before, but who knows?

Lessons learnt - drain the fluid when the car is cold. The level varies considerably between cold and 38 degrees (with the box just having been through the gears). So, therefore it is essential that the level test is done at the correct temperature - you all knew that already though!

Helpful answers. Very strange colour IMHO. Good thing you have partially changed it.
 
Yes strange colour indeed....Grey?.....mine was Black to dark maroon....and the oil does smell nice dont it....
 
Yes strange colour indeed....Grey?.....mine was Black to dark maroon....and the oil does smell nice dont it....

I hope previous poster hasnt been holding his breath waiting for you post

(28th april2012 post) :D:rolleyes:
 
freelander automatic td4 jatco fluid this will be fine in your auto td4 .
 

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Yes it will work fine, and is available thru GSF etc , its almost half the cost of the OE Rover stuff IIRC
 
When mine was checked at the main dealer they told me the level was checked on the computer. No reason to doubt them, but can't find any other method on the web/rave either. Forgot to look when I was on LRGTR. If the level is incorrect you'll certainly know ££££. It'll damage it. Then it's no return. Low oil = cavitate and damages the torque converter when air gets in. Mine did that when it leaked. Over fill and you'll blow the seals all over the auto. Said to be high pressures inside. Mine did that when I thought sod it, it's worth a risk as it's leaking anyway. 50/50 chance. 1 leak became 3 main seal leaks. I lost. Main dealer charge £110 for 1 hour labour to check the level, which includes 1L of oil at £10. The drive for x minutess is a risk. We couldn't get a thermometer to reach the oil, through the top. Other stuff in the way inside. Even when oil level too high.

I appreciate others comments, but I can't see a way to confirm the auto oil level, and there's no level plug either. I asked a Japanese man to talk to Jatco at the time, to ask how to measure it. They said no manual option. Wouldn't go further.
Surely you can get over having to know the temperature by draining the lot out and refilling with the amount Land Rover say it takes cold?
Drain it when it's hot because it is thinner, let it go cold and fill it with the required amount the manufacturer says.
Want to get this done soon so any advice would be great
 
Surely you can get over having to know the temperature by draining the lot out and refilling with the amount Land Rover say it takes cold?
Drain it when it's hot because it is thinner, let it go cold and fill it with the required amount the manufacturer says.
Want to get this done soon so any advice would be great
The box doesn't drain fully, as about ½ the dry volume remains in the torque converter and oil ways. This why you have to fill the box to the level plug, then cycle through the gears, while allowing the box to warm up. Once it's at 38°C, the level plug is refitted to maintain the correct level. Auto box fluid doesn't change viscosity much over a wide temperature range, so draining when cold is just as effective as draining when hot, and a lot less dangerous.
 
The box doesn't drain fully, as about ½ the dry volume remains in the torque converter and oil ways. This why you have to fill the box to the level plug, then cycle through the gears, while allowing the box to warm up. Once it's at 38°C, the level plug is refitted to maintain the correct level. Auto box fluid doesn't change viscosity much over a wide temperature range, so draining when cold is just as effective as draining when hot, and a lot less dangerous.
Thanks for that. It is the same as a Honda we had except that left around 20%. It was also much easier to see the level and fill.
 
Surely you can get over having to know the temperature by draining the lot out and refilling with the amount Land Rover say it takes cold?
Drain it when it's hot because it is thinner, let it go cold and fill it with the required amount the manufacturer says.
Want to get this done soon so any advice would be great
It's not always a good idea to do a full refill. Auto fluid (the good stuff) contains cleaners. Its suggested by manufacturers to do a partual change, which introduces new fluid and cleaners. Its a mixed view but auto fluid doesn't get contaminated like fuel burning engine oil does. The shock of a full refill can cause problems with 'muck' being cleaned.
 
It's not always a good idea to do a full refill. Auto fluid (the good stuff) contains cleaners. Its suggested by manufacturers to do a partual change, which introduces new fluid and cleaners. Its a mixed view but auto fluid doesn't get contaminated like fuel burning engine oil does. The shock of a full refill can cause problems with 'muck' being cleaned.
Yes I have come to the same conclusion (watching you tube)
I watched one clip where they said you can drain the lot out, but keep 1 Ltr of the old fluid which you mix with the new fluid.
As my health is not good after a number of strokes rheumatoid arthritis onset of dementia and others I can't remember, I have been convinced to take it to Land Rover. I shall post how successful that is and how much it cost when it's done.
 

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