james6546
Well-Known Member
Not done much research on paint tbh, its a loooong way down my list of things to do! I think eventually I will pay for a respray, but it probably won't be for a good while.
Mine is metallic, so bought some rattle cans from ebay. Seems to match up ok, if a little dark.
Station House
Well-Known Member
Brush painting in Synthetic is real easy and available in all the RAL colours
2.5 litres will more than do the outside of a Landy
As ever good prep, etch priming any bare ali and then spay priming and flatting back add to the finish
Good quality brushes are well worth the investment.
When it comes to paint, take it steady, apply in multiple directions but always finish with vertical brush strokes to minimise any runs
Synthetic takes a time to dry so flows to give a good shine, and takes even longer to fully harden.
Did mine this summer - really pleased with the transformation. Photos on here somewhere - the finish is the Landy in my siggy picture
OLDUN
Active Member
Thanks for info - was thinking of using Sparex paint - is this what you used - and presumably it goes on existing paint without bubbling - presumably I can brush paint the primer also - though struggling to find which primer will go with Sparex.
Station House
Well-Known Member
Honestly not sure what sparex is - if it's tractor paint will be fine
Just ordered synthetic from a paint shop
Yes will go over cellulose without bubbling
Brushing primer can be a pain as you'll get ridges and brush marks, so you'll spend loads of effort using wet and dry paper to get smooth
I only primed a few areas so used a rattle can, and just made sure all the existing paint was gone over with 800 grit wet and dry to give a base
Just ordered synthetic from a paint shop
Yes will go over cellulose without bubbling
Brushing primer can be a pain as you'll get ridges and brush marks, so you'll spend loads of effort using wet and dry paper to get smooth
I only primed a few areas so used a rattle can, and just made sure all the existing paint was gone over with 800 grit wet and dry to give a base
james6546
Well-Known Member
Thanks alm
To be honest I can't see many places underneath that would benefit sound proofing. I'll put some around the engine bay and maybe the front of the bulkhead, but can't really see anywhere else. I'm getting a new floor for the load area aswell, so will put some on that too when I do it.
I think the connectors are good, fingers crossed.
I reckon a week on Sunday it should be pretty much back on the road
james6546
Well-Known Member
Getting there. Still lots more to do though. Also dont have the budget for a respray or back door, so just gonna have to patch stuff up for now.
james6546
Well-Known Member
The body is on!!!
I'll do this in order though...
Yesterday I got the wiring tidied up and tank connections done properly.
Then this morning I added some soundproofing to the bulkhead.
Then we lifted the body into place.
It wasn't as simple as I had hoped. First the chassis bolt kit I had bought didn't seem to have the long bulkhead to chassis bolts so we had to take a trip to DLS, then we had to straighten the body up with the help of the quad bike.
So now the body is on
Tomorrows job is the cam belt :S
Probably a lot of tidying up too...
I'll do this in order though...
Yesterday I got the wiring tidied up and tank connections done properly.
Then this morning I added some soundproofing to the bulkhead.
Then we lifted the body into place.
It wasn't as simple as I had hoped. First the chassis bolt kit I had bought didn't seem to have the long bulkhead to chassis bolts so we had to take a trip to DLS, then we had to straighten the body up with the help of the quad bike.
So now the body is on
Tomorrows job is the cam belt :S
Probably a lot of tidying up too...
james6546
Well-Known Member
Yeah, not much left to do
Well brake pipes, fuel system, breathers, clutch, cam belt, p gasket, cooling system, wings on, interior back in, some painting, spats on...
Finally managed to take the exhaust to the fabricators so hopefully he will get that done soon as that will be the part holding up it being back on the road.
james6546
Well-Known Member
Small update today, and no pics as I'm using my phone. Spent hours today trying to remove the dog nut and gave up in the end. Couldn't crank the engine as its mostly in bits. Guess I will have to buy one of the tools for locking it in place. Bah!
I did however change the p gasket(which had already been replaced with a tin one), put a new water pump on, and my shiny new alternator. Was going to keep the old alt as a spare, but dropped a nut into it!
We also changed the oil on sarahs Freelander. Still doesn't feel like a very productive day though...
I did however change the p gasket(which had already been replaced with a tin one), put a new water pump on, and my shiny new alternator. Was going to keep the old alt as a spare, but dropped a nut into it!
We also changed the oil on sarahs Freelander. Still doesn't feel like a very productive day though...
I think you are doing extremely well, mate.
Despite working as fast as I can, I am amazed at how little I get done in a day.
I reckon it's impossible to factor in your thinking and planning time. Doing a second rebuild would be so much quicker, cos you'll already know what to do when.
Despite working as fast as I can, I am amazed at how little I get done in a day.
I reckon it's impossible to factor in your thinking and planning time. Doing a second rebuild would be so much quicker, cos you'll already know what to do when.
james6546
Well-Known Member
Thanks
Yeah, it would def go quicker next time as I would know where everything goes. Plus I wouldn't end up starting a job and then realising I don't have the right tool half way through!
Todays job is finishing attaching the body, some bodywork ready for the rear spats and connecting up the fuel system.
james6546
Well-Known Member
Didn't get masses done yesterday, got the speedo and engine electrics connected and finished putting in the new brake pipes. No pictures of that though as it looks like someone threw a load of spaghetti into my engine bay...my bending skills leave a lot to be desired.
I was also going to get the new filler system connected, but instead started some bodywork.
Went from this:
To this:
I'm getting quite pleased with the results now.
Got this to do tonight (sorry about the pic):
I have found that as long as you are careful, the angle grinder makes a useful tool for getting rid of the bad paintwork. Though got a bit carried away and now have a whole lot of paintwork to do inc the rear door that I plan on replacing at some point
I was also going to get the new filler system connected, but instead started some bodywork.
Went from this:
To this:
I'm getting quite pleased with the results now.
Got this to do tonight (sorry about the pic):
I have found that as long as you are careful, the angle grinder makes a useful tool for getting rid of the bad paintwork. Though got a bit carried away and now have a whole lot of paintwork to do inc the rear door that I plan on replacing at some point
james6546
Well-Known Member
After taking the rear door card off on Mon and finding that the door is mostly held together with the skin I have just ordered a new one from SP Landrover parts.
Couldn't stretch to a galv one, but went for one with a heated rear already in it.
Also found a friend who will paint it for me, which is good as I didn't fancy repainting a good proportion just using spray cans
Couldn't stretch to a galv one, but went for one with a heated rear already in it.
Also found a friend who will paint it for me, which is good as I didn't fancy repainting a good proportion just using spray cans
YachtMaster
New Member
Excellent Thread - thanks for sharing.
I've got a TD5 which is set up for motorway cruising (Recaros and Disco box) and which I use for towing and as a daily driver; although it's seen a few beaches and slipways, it's never been properly off-road or green-laned.
I'm also lucky to have a very skilled spanner man (proper third generation Land Rover nut) who looks after it for me coz I'm no mechanic, believe me, but having read a few of these rebuild threads and watched my spanner man work on the truck, I've got the bug.
I'm now seriously considering acquiring a 300tdi, stripping it and popping it onto a galvanised chassis (+bulkhead if required) then using it for some off-road fun- nothing radical, probably a standard set-up, but believe me, I wouldn't even be considering this if it wasn't for the EXCELLENT advice, guidance and pics that are freely shared on this forum.
So, apologies for the thread-drift but keep up the great work guys and many thanks for sharing your knowledge and skill.
I've got a TD5 which is set up for motorway cruising (Recaros and Disco box) and which I use for towing and as a daily driver; although it's seen a few beaches and slipways, it's never been properly off-road or green-laned.
I'm also lucky to have a very skilled spanner man (proper third generation Land Rover nut) who looks after it for me coz I'm no mechanic, believe me, but having read a few of these rebuild threads and watched my spanner man work on the truck, I've got the bug.
I'm now seriously considering acquiring a 300tdi, stripping it and popping it onto a galvanised chassis (+bulkhead if required) then using it for some off-road fun- nothing radical, probably a standard set-up, but believe me, I wouldn't even be considering this if it wasn't for the EXCELLENT advice, guidance and pics that are freely shared on this forum.
So, apologies for the thread-drift but keep up the great work guys and many thanks for sharing your knowledge and skill.
