When I repaired the drivers door latch on my 1997 P38, I remember thinking that the actuating rod on the lock was a very obvious point of failure - held in place by a push down clip fitting into a groove on the top of the rod. If ever I need to open with the key, I shall put the key in and turn it like I am defusing a bomb.. There does not appear to be a solution to beef up that mechanical connection - even on Landyzone. So I shall be following this emergency access / start story very closely!!!
 
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Well we have progress. I'm in the RR at last.
Method used was a battery connected to the live feed to the starter motor and the negative to the engine. Used the fob to unlock and I was back in.
Now for the next problem. It will not start. Throws up all sorts of warnings and remains immobilised.
Is there now a method to restore normal running please? Parts for MOT have all arrived so it needs to go to the garage for all the work to be carried out and retested for the MOT.
 
You need to resync the key. Or enter EKA (ifs it asking) for that you need a fully functioning door lock.

So you need to get the door card off and sort out the little rod, then hope that it locks and unlocks the central locking on the key which proves enough that you can sync key in the lock.
Or the key in ignition and press unlock.
Destructions are in the manual:D.
Its changed over the years and I don't know if the diesel is the same.

Fully charged battery first though. and make sure everything is closed when trying. Leave a window open;) You know why:D.

Also Key in ignition position 1 when connecting battery (door or window open) can sometimes prove to the car its not trying to be nicked.

J
 
The method of putting the key in the ignition to synch it is for P38s after 1997. Before that the method listed in the manual is to press either fob button (nothing happens) then unlock manually. The fob then works.
But you say that you connected a battery to the starter to get some power in, and then used the fob. According to the manual, that should not work as the fob would be out of synch...?
Unless there was enough residual voltage in the battery to keep the key synchronised but not enough to operate the remote unlock...?
I am worried about this single point of failure, and would be interested in finding a solution.
 
P38 Monkey said:
The method of putting the key in the ignition to synch it is for P38s after 1997. Before that the method listed in the manual is to press either fob button (nothing happens) then unlock manually. The fob then works.
But you say that you connected a battery to the starter to get some power in, and then used the fob. According to the manual, that should not work as the fob would be out of synch...?
Unless there was enough residual voltage in the battery to keep the key synchronised but not enough to operate the remote unlock...?
I am worried about this single point of failure, and would be interested in finding a solution.
Click to expand...
There is usually no loss of FOB sync when the battery is disconnected. However there is sometimes, as in this case, an issue with the immobiliser. As the car unlocked with the FOB, there should be no need for EKA.
With the battery fully charged, do a couple of lock/unlock cycles with the FOB.
 
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Datatek said:
There is usually no loss of FOB sync when the battery is disconnected. However there is sometimes, as in this case, an issue with the immobiliser. As the car unlocked with the FOB, there should be no need for EKA.
With the battery fully charged, do a couple of lock/unlock cycles with the FOB.
Click to expand...
Perhaps that is another BeCM variation on my Japanese import 1997 4.0SE. My two fobs always lose synch when the battery is disconnected. The standard procedure of pressing the fob button then unlocking manually within 30 seconds works first time every time. No EKA code is listed for my P38 and it would appear that EKA might even not be enabled at all on Japanese variants. Just in case, I am armed with a couple of standard EKA codes (1515 and 1234) which I hope never to have to use. I suspect that the whole immobiliser side of the BeCM is differently programmed for Japan. where some features are USA-like, some are UK-style, and some are only known to a bloke in Solihull who retired a very long time ago...
 
P38 Monkey said:
Perhaps that is another BeCM variation on my Japanese import 1997 4.0SE. My two fobs always lose synch when the battery is disconnected. The standard procedure of pressing the fob button then unlocking manually within 30 seconds works first time every time. No EKA code is listed for my P38 and it would appear that EKA might even not be enabled at all on Japanese variants. Just in case, I am armed with a couple of standard EKA codes (1515 and 1234) which I hope never to have to use. I suspect that the whole immobiliser side of the BeCM is differently programmed for Japan. where some features are USA-like, some are UK-style, and some are only known to a bloke in Solihull who retired a very long time ago...
Click to expand...
EKA can be turned on or off as can the immobiliser. No way they would do a "special" when all features in the BECM are selectable. It's cheaper to develop a one size fits all ECU.
 
Datatek said:
EKA can be turned on or off as can the immobiliser. No way they would do a "special" when all features in the BECM are selectable. It's cheaper to develop a one size fits all ECU.
Click to expand...
OK, thanks for the info - that all makes sense. As ever, the answers are here..!
I am trying to work out an emergency solution in the event of a flat battery and the manual locking rod falling off the lock barrel, as happened to MGRmanic. No use setting up an external charging connector, or connecting to the starter, as my fobs would not work even with power back in the battery. Not keen to start messing with the BeCM either.
 
P38 Monkey said:
OK, thanks for the info - that all makes sense. As ever, the answers are here..!
I am trying to work out an emergency solution in the event of a flat battery and the manual locking rod falling off the lock barrel, as happened to MGRmanic. No use setting up an external charging connector, or connecting to the starter, as my fobs would not work even with power back in the battery. Not keen to start messing with the BeCM either.
Click to expand...
If you have a Nanocom, it's very easy to turn off the EKA function and the Immobiliser, then you can operate the car with just the key blade. It does not help if the rod drops off though, but I think that is fairly rare.
 
Thanks everyone for the ideas and solutions. The RR now runs.
Mechanic turned up this morning and used the instructions on here to enable it to start. Fitted all the parts and my MOT retest is booked for Monday at 10am.
He took off the drivers door card and indeed he reported that the lock mechanism is missing a plastic clip hence why the button remained down when all the rest shot up on the fob.
I still have to press the fob on key position 1 to disable the immobiliser and then it will start. Used to that anyway.
Only thing left is that bleeps and messages come up when starting and switching off. "Window not set", "sun roof not set" plus a couple more. Once they are gone I will have a tested and serviced weekend cruiser.
 
It's a steel clip not plastic. It clicks into a groove in the top of the actuating rod. It's probably sitting in the bottom of the door right now.
Setting windows is easy - just full down and back up again - job done.
Sunroof - not sure as I don't have one, but probably the same.
Glad all is going well...
 
Datatek said:
If you have a Nanocom, it's very easy to turn off the EKA function and the Immobiliser, then you can operate the car with just the key blade. It does not help if the rod drops off though, but I think that is fairly rare.
Click to expand...
The issue is that the fobs lose their synch when the battery is flat / disconnected. From previous postings, that seems wrong. Any thoughts as to why it might be?
 
kurtjohnson10 said:
does anyone know for sure its his vehicle pmsl - or just getting ready to pinch one with the help of you lot :D:D:D:D:D:D
Click to expand...
Trick is to pinch one with a full petrol tank - then you are talking about high value...
Remember the old joke about Skodas (pre-VW takeover) when they said you could double the value of your Skoda by filling it up with 4-star...?
 
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