bukko

bukko

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My disco is a 2010 TDV6 HSE (245 engine).
On my way back from Brum airport to Somerset last week, was cruising around 60-70 when suddenly had a fairly loud rotation noise which we initially thought was a flat. On pulling onto the hard shoulder the noise continued even though we were stationary, although the engine kept running until I turned it off.
Got the car (eventually) relayed to a local garage but on arrival it wouldn't turn over. Thought maybe that battery was too low after sitting on hazards for 4 hours so recharged, but was the same afterwards, so maybe the engine is seized.
They are going to try to crank it manually to check. The belts look ok but suspicion is that maybe it snapped a timing chain or something of that ilk.
Anyway I'm flying to Finland with the family in less than a month, so I suspect I'd better look for alternative transport to Stanstead as I can't see it being fixed in time! We shall see.
 
I would have thought that with a failed crankshaft or timing component, the engine would stop there and then. You don't mention any lights coming on so you can probably rule out the oil pump too. Maybe the flywheel or the starter motor came apart ?
 
NPG said:
Spot on @lynall. Thanks for that. Wouldn't have thought it possible but if a Skoda with a broken crank stills runs and drive, I suppose that's the least an LR can do :)

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Few years back saw a Daf truck exactly the same, guys on other shift spent ages trying to work out why it ran like crap, dropped sump and found crank cracked.
Not seen one fail before or since on the trucks, so first and only one in over 30 years, cannot say that about the 2.7 and 3.0 v6 LR lumps!
 
NPG said:
I would have thought that with a failed crankshaft or timing component, the engine would stop there and then.
Click to expand...

Not if a bearing has turned to molten metal. While there is friction the bearing white metal remains soft and fluid, allowing the engine to run on for a while. However on stopping the engine, the bearing cools down, the white metal bearing material hardens, and the engine will be locked solid.

These TDV6 engines are known for bearings melting or the crankshaft breaking, both effectively scrapping the vehicle now, but not always stopping the engine straight away.

The Freelander 1 TD4 is also known to break cranks, right on No1 crank pin. However as this end of the engine only drives the timing chain and drive belts, the engine can actually run for many miles before the crank fails engine to prevent the timing chain from turning.
 
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Nodge68 said:
Not if a bearing has turned to molten metal. While there is friction the bearing white metal remains soft and fluid, allowing the engine to run on for a while. However on stopping the engine, the bearing cools down, the white metal bearing material hardens, and the engine will be locked solid.

These TDV6 engines are known for bearings melting or the crankshaft breaking, both effectively scrapping the vehicle now, but not always stopping the engine straight away.

The Freelander 1 TD4 is also known to break cranks, right on No1 crank pin. However as this end of the engine only drives the timing chain and drive belts, the engine can actually run for many miles before the crank fails engine to prevent the timing chain from turning.
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Cheerful!
Well it's going to be repaired whatever, just need to find something to replace it in the meanwhile.
 
Nodge68 said:
These TDV6 engines are known for bearings melting or the crankshaft breaking, both effectively scrapping the vehicle now, but not always stopping the engine straight away.
Click to expand...

There were 2 LR service bulletins precisely covering the problem you describe (SSM71816 & SSM72928). I don't know elsewhere but apparently in Australia there was a preventative recall - http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Land Rover&model=Discovery 4&gen=514

That said, haven't read anywhere that LR had the decency to own up and pay for repairs outside the warranty period. Kind of reminds me of the oil pump bolt on the D2.
 
It's going to be a case of sucking it up, as the car is still worth enough to make it worth repairing, especially now prices seem to have gone nuts.
But it won't be done before I need it next month, so my quandry at the moment is what to buy as a temporary replacement.
The short list is: Disco 2 (current favourite), RR Sport (most likely not - not enough boot space), Volvo XC90, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Merc M class, or something else... :confused:
 
bukko said:
It's going to be a case of sucking it up, as the car is still worth enough to make it worth repairing, especially now prices seem to have gone nuts.
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That's good. Luckily you have a D4, so residuals are still decent. A D3 would likely be beyond economical repair.

I'm hoping you've just got a bearing issue, which means the engine could be rebuilt.
The alternative is to source a good second hand unit.
Good luck with it.
 
bukko said:
It's going to be a case of sucking it up, as the car is still worth enough to make it worth repairing, especially now prices seem to have gone nuts.
But it won't be done before I need it next month, so my quandry at the moment is what to buy as a temporary replacement.
The short list is: Disco 2 (current favourite), RR Sport (most likely not - not enough boot space), Volvo XC90, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Merc M class, or something else... :confused:
Click to expand...
I can confirm the RR Sport boot space is poor compared to the D4/D3 I think its on par with the p38. Iv picked up a project sport to replace the wife's D3 if the ulez gets extended. She can live with it if she has to but prefers the D3 in every respect.
 
biketeacherdave said:
She can live with it if she has to but prefers the D3 in every respect.
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My missus has already told me she doesn't want me to get rid of the D4. It is a very nice car tbf. Hopefully once fixed it'll last at least another 12 years!
 
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