How heavy is the engine Im going to lift? (3.9 V8 with manifolds but not fluids)
Will 2 strong people be able to lift it with a weightlifting bar and lifting straps, or do I really need an engine hoist?
 
received_999842724350062.jpeg
Theres my breeding pair of discos.
Anyone want to buy them both before I start pulling them apart? No? Didnt think so. (Seriois enqueries welcome)
 
Guys, just read a very worrying comment on facebook
"Have you fitted it?
If not has the auto engine got the hole for the spigot shaft bush?"
Anyone know before I pick up the engine hoist tomorrow?
Thanks
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Guys, just read a very worrying comment on facebook
"Have you fitted it?
If not has the auto engine got the hole for the spigot shaft bush?"
Anyone know before I pick up the engine hoist tomorrow?
Thanks
Click to expand...

You will be changing all the flywheel end to accommodate your manual so it will then;). You have a torque wrench?

J

Edit: are farcebook exsquirts or is that why you come here? Not saying we are or I get it right every time but.
 
marjon said:
You will be changing all the flywheel end to accommodate your manual so it will then;). You have a torque wrench?

J

Edit: are farcebook exsquirts or is that why you come here? Not saying we are or I get it right every time but.
Click to expand...
Yeah, are the ends of the crankshafts the same?
Yes I have a torque wrench, no idea if/when it was callibrated.
I use multiple sauses. That way someone is guaranteed to be wrong!
 
Well guys, theres not been much interest in my discos on ebay, other than a couple of frankly insulting offers.
So if I keep it/them, the short term plan will be compression test (tool advice appreciated!), then swapping sensors and ECUs etc until it works (assuming compression is good)
If the compression is bad due to washed bores, what can I do about it? Is it possible to re-coat them? Or do I need to get new liners put in? (Im assuming thats not a DIY job)
Long term plan - I dont want to switch to a diesel, having driven/followed a few different 200tdis and 300tdis before, the difference is night and day.
So, assuming I keep the V8, what can I do to make it more reliable and/or simpler to fix when it does break? A carb conversion might sound like a step backwards, but if it makes the car easier to fix (instead of sitting for almost an entire year) then its a deal!
Looking forward to your inevitable light hearted mockery and useful advice, thanks!
 
I'm no expert by a long way, but I've never heard of cylinder washing
They could be glazed, meaning the piston rings won't make a good seal but that can be undone.
Piston rings can also be seized, meaning they don't create good compression to that can also be undone.
Do you own compression test and go from there. I've got a Draper one.. works fine, might not be the best or the most accurate but it's as good as I'll ever need
If you have bad compression, I'd go for a knackered camshaft first, not hard to replace all told.
If the liners are genuinely worn then you'll need new ones, top hatLiners will make the engine pretty much built proof, but liners worn enough to cause bad compression, to me, sounds unlikely
 
kermit_rr said:
I'm no expert by a long way, but I've never heard of cylinder washing
They could be glazed, meaning the piston rings won't make a good seal but that can be undone.
Piston rings can also be seized, meaning they don't create good compression to that can also be undone.
Do you own compression test and go from there. I've got a Draper one.. works fine, might not be the best or the most accurate but it's as good as I'll ever need
If you have bad compression, I'd go for a knackered camshaft first, not hard to replace all told.
If the liners are genuinely worn then you'll need new ones, top hatLiners will make the engine pretty much built proof, but liners worn enough to cause bad compression, to me, sounds unlikely
Click to expand...
He needs a compenant mechanic as he has been out of his depth for a long long time...
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Yeah, are the ends of the crankshafts the same?
Yes I have a torque wrench, no idea if/when it was callibrated.
I use multiple sauses. That way someone is guaranteed to be wrong!
Click to expand...
You need a manual flywheel, the cranks are the same across the board.
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Well guys, theres not been much interest in my discos on ebay, other than a couple of frankly insulting offers.
So if I keep it/them, the short term plan will be compression test (tool advice appreciated!), then swapping sensors and ECUs etc until it works (assuming compression is good)
If the compression is bad due to washed bores, what can I do about it? Is it possible to re-coat them? Or do I need to get new liners put in? (Im assuming thats not a DIY job)
Long term plan - I dont want to switch to a diesel, having driven/followed a few different 200tdis and 300tdis before, the difference is night and day.
So, assuming I keep the V8, what can I do to make it more reliable and/or simpler to fix when it does break? A carb conversion might sound like a step backwards, but if it makes the car easier to fix (instead of sitting for almost an entire year) then its a deal!
Looking forward to your inevitable light hearted mockery and useful advice, thanks!
Click to expand...
Don't jump the gun, a compression test first and post the results..

Bores wash nah, more than likely if it has low compression its either headgasket or worn bores from lack of maintenance and abuse, maybe even in rare cases stuck compression rings, the latter usually happens after a period of inactivity.

Fitting new top hat liners won't be cheap, mainly because it is one of the many steps in a full engine rebuild :)
 
You need the figures for the compression test if they can't provide such then they probably didn't do it. :)
 
Henry_b said:
Bores wash nah, more than likely if it has low compression its either headgasket or worn bores from lack of maintenance and abuse, maybe even in rare cases stuck compression rings, the latter usually happens after a period of inactivity.

Fitting new top hat liners won't be cheap, mainly because it is one of the many steps in a full engine rebuild
Click to expand...
Lets just remember, it didnt break down. It was running great, then one day it didnt start, then a bunch of morons (myself included, but also the supposed profesional garage) dumped a load of EZ start in it, and at some point the injection was working fine, so its had a lot of unburnt fuel in those cylinders.
Its not the camshaft, its only done 90k miles and the engine was pulling well etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Chassis change out
Replies
4
Views
287
Stu@69
S
M
Advice on replacing both rear toe spindle links on Disco 4
2
Replies
29
Views
1K
Anaconda
A
loonyspoony
Disco 1 300TDI No Start
2 3
Replies
49
Views
2K
Hicap phill
H
awkwardbob
L322 2003 L322 Can’t open bonnet -battery flat
2
Replies
20
Views
691
roythebus
R
tweedandbriar
*** Injector Adjusters Stuck - Help Needed ***
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
Tim4x4
Tim4x4