LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
One last thing, when I do the compression test, do I take ALL the sparkplugs out, or just the one that Im testing? (Obviously Im going to test all 8)
AllanWorms
Well-Known Member
Take all out. LABEL the wires!
I'd remove the fuel pump or injector fuse/s too, so it isn't pumping in fuel.
I'd remove the fuel pump or injector fuse/s too, so it isn't pumping in fuel.
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
Im pretty sure it isnt anyway, but Ill unplug the fuel pump just to be sure
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
The coils? As in the ignition coil?
Or do you mean the connector to the fuel injectors? They didnt do anything last time I checked...
I really am dying to see the result of all this.
The point of doing it with the engine warmed up is so that all metals will have expanded to take up the running clearances and give a true reading.
The point of taking all the plugs out is two fold, one is that you can then do the job faster so the engine stays warm, and two, the starter motor doesn't have to work to compress air etc in the cylinders, except the one you are testing.
In each case keep the engine turning over until the reading stabilises before recording it and then moving on.
And only do the wet reading after the dry one.
Looking forward to the table of results!
Yes ignition coil. Then you don't get 40,000v down your arm when you get near a dangling plug lead
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
Not sure if theres a way Im supposed to warm the engine up, given its not running. Perhaps giving it a hot water bottle?
Relistically the engine isnt going to be at or above 10°C until spring/summer (unless it runs of course), so its a cold winter test or no test at all.
Forgive me for my idealistic comment.
I had a feeling that was the case.
This thread has been running so long that I have forgotten some details.
Don't worry about it.
Just do the test dry then wet and post results.
Then we can all move on to the next step knowing its fine
.Stick with the plan dont get sidetracked.
J
I thought doom and gloom side-trackery was my specialityDon't worry about it.
Just do the test dry then wet and post results.
Then we can all move on to the next step knowing its fine
Stick with the plan dont get sidetracked.
J
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
Still not looked at them - still not sold them.
If I fix it and kept it long term, is there a more reliable system I can fit than the current EFI system? I cant fit carbs, because its a 1996, so it needs catalytic converters, and cats dont like carbs (No idea why Garfield ate lasagna). If theres a good alternative, I might just jump straight for that instead of faffing around (after a compression test, obviously!)
Or am I better of just selling it and getting a 300tdi? Ive driven both a 300tdi and a 200tdi and compared to the V8 they felt like crap, much less responsive, much slower/less powerful, but compared to a broken V8, theyre infinately better. And by the sounds of it, a tdi would actually have running costs that make it sensible to drive to places in...
For me, the facelift discovery 1 is peak land rover - more practical and roomy than a range rover, more comfortable and less likely to be nicked than a defender, although the longer wheelbase and higher payload of a 110 would be fantastic.
If I fix it and kept it long term, is there a more reliable system I can fit than the current EFI system? I cant fit carbs, because its a 1996, so it needs catalytic converters, and cats dont like carbs (No idea why Garfield ate lasagna). If theres a good alternative, I might just jump straight for that instead of faffing around (after a compression test, obviously!)
Or am I better of just selling it and getting a 300tdi? Ive driven both a 300tdi and a 200tdi and compared to the V8 they felt like crap, much less responsive, much slower/less powerful, but compared to a broken V8, theyre infinately better. And by the sounds of it, a tdi would actually have running costs that make it sensible to drive to places in...
For me, the facelift discovery 1 is peak land rover - more practical and roomy than a range rover, more comfortable and less likely to be nicked than a defender, although the longer wheelbase and higher payload of a 110 would be fantastic.
MJI
Well-Known Member
Megasquirt is an option, an aftermarket injection system.
Non D1 engine is another option, IF you want to lose the V8 and go Diesel
Non D1 engine is another option, IF you want to lose the V8 and go Diesel
Megasquirt is an option, an aftermarket injection system.
Non D1 engine is another option, IF you want to lose the V8 and go Diesel
Woooo I am not sure we need to chuck that in as an option.
We are having trouble with the basics at the moment
J
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
I'm not a fan of the TD5 if I'm honest...Megasquirt is an option, an aftermarket injection system.
Non D1 engine is another option, IF you want to lose the V8 and go Diesel
And do MS have a significantly better reliability than the standard stuff? Possibly paired with electronic ignition?
Yes, sitting inside next to the fire and typing into a laptop is much easier than going down to the carpark where its sat and mucking about with it....
I might drag it up here and plonk it right infront of the window, as motivation to get on with it!
AllanWorms
Well-Known Member
14CUX is very, VERY simple and actually generally reliable. Megasquirt is a very steep learning curve, as is any kind of engine conversion.
If you can't do the bare basics, getting halfway through something 1000X more complex and discovering as issue is going to mean the same situation, which much less available support and knowledge, as nobody will have an understanding of exactly how you've done it.
If you can't do the bare basics, getting halfway through something 1000X more complex and discovering as issue is going to mean the same situation, which much less available support and knowledge, as nobody will have an understanding of exactly how you've done it.
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Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Mega squirt is good… but comes at a price.
(Ecu can be set to run on different grades of fuel)
Original set up is easy once you have it sorted. Only problem I had was ecu played up and over fuelled but soon noticed this and all good with new ecu
(Ecu can be set to run on different grades of fuel)
Original set up is easy once you have it sorted. Only problem I had was ecu played up and over fuelled but soon noticed this and all good with new ecu
