Sorry to hear this isn't resolving quickly. A gearbox fluid change is not difficult, I have flushed my D3 box twice because when I bought the car with 123k on the clock I was certain the box had never seen a fluid change, also, I had some juddering that I wasn't happy about. After flushing twice the gearbox is fine. I will be doing another change soon but this time I am replacing the mechatronic sleeve seal, bridge seal and tube seals. The important bit is the final filling of the box, the engine MUST be running and the transmission fluid needs to be within a range of temperature (can't remember what that was off the top of my head, circa 40C I think). A good diagnostic tool to read the gearbox temperature is favourite but a reliable infra red thermometer will do.
All you do with the engine idling is fill up an oil syringe or use a small hand pump to push oil in to the box once up to level, cycle the gear selector. If I can do it I would expect any garage to be able to do it too.
If the suspicion is the level is too low it may be worth topping it up ASAP and see if it sorts it out.
About adaptations, it is true the gearbox does "learn" to keep the shift timing within specified limits which account for wear etc. I reset the adaptations on mine after changing the transmission fluid and can't say I noticed any discernible change but that doesn't mean there was no change. I have researched a bit about these gearboxes and in lots of ways they are really clever, the mechatronic unit supplies the voodoo magic but the rest of the box is fairly straight forward mechanical stuff although I have to admit gearboxes scare me!
Good luck with it.
 
I know a TD5 Disco 2 isn't a Disco 3 but for a long while, until recently I had to constantly top my box up. It had a leak, now cured, and once I learned, I could do it in a very short time. The principle is the same as with the D3 box.
I found it easiest to do from cold, as the book for the TD5 says, so I could loosen the plug without burning myself, then run the engine so the fluid gets a bit thinner and warmer.
I put some ATF in a pressure plant sprayer, and pump it up.
I then jump in the cab, foot on the brake, move the gear shift lever through all the gears holding it for a couple of seconds in each, then leave it in neutral or park, ensuring the handbrake is well on, jump out, get under with the end of the sprayer tube with its trigger, undo the plug, spray it in until it runs out, pop the plug back in do it up fairly tight till the flow stops. Stop the engine then back under to tighten it to torque.
Sounds a bit of a faff, but it ain't really and I am still not too fat to need to put it on ramps or anything. Just!
Changing the oil and filter on a TD5 box though is much easier as long as none of the clamps break!
The best thing I learned was the plant sprayer. By far the easiest, least messy and least wasteful way of doing it.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I know a TD5 Disco 2 isn't a Disco 3 but for a long while, until recently I had to constantly top my box up. It had a leak, now cured, and once I learned, I could do it in a very short time. The principle is the same as with the D3 box.
I found it easiest to do from cold, as the book for the TD5 says, so I could loosen the plug without burning myself, then run the engine so the fluid gets a bit thinner and warmer.
I put some ATF in a pressure plant sprayer, and pump it up.
I then jump in the cab, foot on the brake, move the gear shift lever through all the gears holding it for a couple of seconds in each, then leave it in neutral or park, ensuring the handbrake is well on, jump out, get under with the end of the sprayer tube with its trigger, undo the plug, spray it in until it runs out, pop the plug back in do it up fairly tight till the flow stops. Stop the engine then back under to tighten it to torque.
Sounds a bit of a faff, but it ain't really and I am still not too fat to need to put it on ramps or anything. Just!
Changing the oil and filter on a TD5 box though is much easier as long as none of the clamps break!
The best thing I learned was the plant sprayer. By far the easiest, least messy and least wasteful way of doing it.
Click to expand...

funny enough got one of these which I’m going to see if it works , handy seeing it will just screw into the top of usual sized bottles but indeed as u also say a sprayer type is very handy to have

plus when I do mine really wish to replace the mechatronic sleeve and the seal , but unfortunately have to remove the mechatronic unit to gain access to that rectangle seal

ref the sump / filter the standard one is plastic , if replacing like for like you need to undo the O/S engine mount, rear transfer box mount, and jack up the O/S engine as far as it will go, to gain enough access to get the filter out , they do a metal one where u don’t have to do that as it comes with a separate filter, alas heard though the metal ones can leak and bolts can snap ?

Also see the genuine ZF lifeguard 6 ATF oil is now approx £26.00 per litre and to do a double flush I heard u need around 10 x litres , personally will use mannol AG55 which I got from Germany for £50 , now £80

when u change the ATF oil and check the level it’s supposed to be a max of 45c , that’s data from various places , have the gap iid so can monitor the temperature using that , do also have one of those digital thermometers but think it’s best to use the gap iid

sorry I’m waffling as per usual, lol

DB96AAAC-1C0E-4DF4-AD50-41FE0E9FA4DF.jpeg
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gstuart said:
funny enough got one of these which I’m going to see if it works , handy seeing it will just screw into the top of usual sized bottles but indeed as u also say a sprayer type is very handy to have

plus when I do mine really wish to replace the mechatronic sleeve and the seal , but unfortunately have to remove the mechatronic unit to gain access to that rectangle seal

ref the sump / filter the standard one is plastic , if replacing like for like you need to undo the O/S engine mount, rear transfer box mount, and jack up the O/S engine as far as it will go, to gain enough access to get the filter out , they do a metal one where u don’t have to do that as it comes with a separate filter, alas heard though the metal ones can leak and bolts can snap ?

Also see the genuine ZF lifeguard 6 ATF oil is now approx £26.00 per litre and to do a double flush I heard u need around 10 x litres , personally will use mannol AG55 which I got from Germany for £50 , now £80

when u change the ATF oil and check the level it’s supposed to be a max of 45c , that’s data from various places , have the gap iid so can monitor the temperature using that , do also have one of those digital thermometers but think it’s best to use the gap iid

sorry I’m waffling as per usual, lol

View attachment 268699 View attachment 268694 View attachment 268695 View attachment 268696 View attachment 268697 View attachment 268698
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Looking at all those pics.

ain't it just a feckin nightmare???:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
gstuart said:
must confess doesn’t look to bad, just time consuming , alas though my main issue will be if I can actually get under the disco
Click to expand...
I do appreciate how much your physical problems stop you doing what you want to do, wish I was somewhere near you to be able to lend a hand.
As you say, similar to changing the water pump on the Disco 2 TD5, not difficult as such just fiddly, complex in all you have to take off to get at it and time consuming.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I do appreciate how much your physical problems stop you doing what you want to do, wish I was somewhere near you to be able to lend a hand.
As you say, similar to changing the water pump on the Disco 2 TD5, not difficult as such just fiddly, complex in all you have to take off to get at it and time consuming.
Click to expand...

bless u and that’s extremely kind of u , don’t mind admitting on some days it seriously upsets me when I useto be extremely fit and well, then changed overnight , have now got a car creeper which I hope will make life a lot easier , getting the actual fill plug out worries me as I don’t think it’s ever been removed , at the end of the day I’ll more than likely just see if I can change the oil as and leave the rest, seeing I won’t have to touch the sump, filter or mechatronic sleeve

Plus learnt a big lesson when I had to change the turbo inlet pipe, then replaced my turbo intercooler hoses with new silicone ones and t bolt clamps , alas though that took me around 6 x months to complete due to the lack of access , bought some more tools as some bolts were virtually impossible to reach

found the following items brilliant and really made life easier , including some proper pliers that remove plastic clips with ease , seeing there were many on the inside to secure the plastic inner wheel arch liner , the UJ crow feet with some extensions and the long reach rachet were also very useful

once again thank u so much for the very kind offer of help if u has been nearer

ps, hopefully in around 18 x months I might be able to move down to dorset , also looked at the new forest but blimey it’s expensive , just going to take a lot of saving but most of all assistance as it will be virtually impossible for me to pack everything up myself, then may have to rest up overnight due ti the distance which is around 130 x miles

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gstuart said:
bless u and that’s extremely kind of u , don’t mind admitting on some days it seriously upsets me when I useto be extremely fit and well, then changed overnight , have now got a car creeper which I hope will make life a lot easier , getting the actual fill plug out worries me as I don’t think it’s ever been removed , at the end of the day I’ll more than likely just see if I can change the oil as and leave the rest, seeing I won’t have to touch the sump, filter or mechatronic sleeve

Plus learnt a big lesson when I had to change the turbo inlet pipe, then replaced my turbo intercooler hoses with new silicone ones and t bolt clamps , alas though that took me around 6 x months to complete due to the lack of access , bought some more tools as some bolts were virtually impossible to reach

found the following items brilliant and really made life easier , including some proper pliers that remove plastic clips with ease , seeing there were many on the inside to secure the plastic inner wheel arch liner , the UJ crow feet with some extensions and the long reach rachet were also very useful

once again thank u so much for the very kind offer of help if u has been nearer

ps, hopefully in around 18 x months I might be able to move down to dorset , also looked at the new forest but blimey it’s expensive , just going to take a lot of saving but most of all assistance as it will be virtually impossible for me to pack everything up myself, then may have to rest up overnight due ti the distance which is around 130 x miles

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The magpie in me is attracted to the flex head sockets/spanners, have no use for them, its just they are shiny!

Creepers are okay, but I find if you are a chunky monkey the limited space becomes even more limited.
 
lynall said:
The magpie in me is attracted to the flex head sockets/spanners, have no use for them, its just they are shiny!

Creepers are okay, but I find if you are a chunky monkey the limited space becomes even more limited.
Click to expand...

i know I’m guilty of buying some tools that I could have used something else ;)

luckily I got one that hasn’t got sides , just a headrest so at least I can hang over the sides, lol

still thinking I should just change the oil , fit new filler and drain plug and leave the rest , just that filler plug bugs me due to its condition and being plastic , suppose if I clean it up with a dremel that has a fine wire attachment it will help

or might shop around to see if there’s a local garage where I can hire a lift , at least then I’ll be able to stand underneath making life a lot easier
 
gstuart said:
i know I’m guilty of buying some tools that I could have used something else ;)

luckily I got one that hasn’t got sides , just a headrest so at least I can hang over the sides, lol

still thinking I should just change the oil , fit new filler and drain plug and leave the rest , just that filler plug bugs me due to its condition and being plastic , suppose if I clean it up with a dremel that has a fine wire attachment it will help

or might shop around to see if there’s a local garage where I can hire a lift , at least then I’ll be able to stand underneath making life a lot easier
Click to expand...

What plug is plastic?
 
So no response for the guy who was going to look at the car. No response from the garage who did the work in regards to resolving the issue. Ready to throw the towel in and scrap the car haven't the patience right now so annoyed that this job hasn't been done properly and i can't seem to do anything about it. Concerned to ask another garage to change the fluid again as my trust in garages is at a low right now.
 
Jay8135 said:
So no response for the guy who was going to look at the car. No response from the garage who did the work in regards to resolving the issue. Ready to throw the towel in and scrap the car haven't the patience right now so annoyed that this job hasn't been done properly and i can't seem to do anything about it. Concerned to ask another garage to change the fluid again as my trust in garages is at a low right now.
Click to expand...

sorry to hear that and indeed so infuriating when people let u down

hope it’s not to personal to ask but have u got someone who could do it for u if we talked him/ her through it step by step, as in its current position can’t drive it, if someone did help u

best to write something that there’s no guarantee that changing the oil will work or be responsible as damage may already have been done

or maybe one of the members here might be able to help that’s near u , another thought is posting on the D3 forum

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/

At the end if the day would u name the main garage please so we will then all know not to go there , thks
 
lynall said:
I have no idea what that plastic plug is for, the 6 speed level plug is in the gearbox main body, mine needs a 6 or maybe 8mm allen key.
It is located just above and slightly rearwards of the gear selector pivot spindle.
Click to expand...

maybe it will be better once I’ve cleared the area, hopefully after doing that will also not be hard to remove , thks as always
 
Taking car to another garage tomorrow who is going to inspect the work carried out. I've sent numerous messages and emails to the 1st garage but zero response going to do a bit of ringing about tomorrow and see what action I can take.
 
Jay8135 said:
Taking car to another garage tomorrow who is going to inspect the work carried out. I've sent numerous messages and emails to the 1st garage but zero response going to do a bit of ringing about tomorrow and see what action I can take.
Click to expand...
Good luck. I hope this garage knows the correct oil fill and check procedure.
 
Jay8135 said:
They reckon it sounds like it was given a dry flush going to check works carried out and give me a report and a price to correct it.
Click to expand...

hiya

must confess never heard of a dry flush , really hope they didn’t run ur engine with no oil in the gearbox as that could be a serious consequence, Plse let us know how u get on and what this garage says

Hope u don’t mind me asking , would u be prepared to name the other garage please as then it can warn everyone else not to go there, as they sound a bunch of cowboys

At a guess the new garage I expect will quote u for 10 x litre of ATF oil, plus labour which could be up to £500 if they use lifeguard 6 which can be £26 per litre , there are other oils

thks and look forward to see what this garage says
 
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