biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
It has to be at temp and checked and topped off with the engine running
I can't be certain this wasn't done but when I arrived a mechanic was under the car on a lift. Engine was off bonnet down mechanic was wiping something under the car. I asked what condition the old oil came out and he said it was clean.... lift was dropped garage owner drove the car for 10 mins then gave me the keys
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Same procedure just different oil in the D4 which is 8 speed
So if it's not ran at temp and primed would this lead to issues I'm having also noticed today when I started the car that when changing the selector from park to drive it makes a loud clunk which was not happening before. Garage has well messed up my car.
I feel they have drained it put on new sump topped it up with 3.5 ltrs and thought that's job done
I feel they have drained it put on new sump topped it up with 3.5 ltrs and thought that's job done
If you just drain it via the drain plug only about 3 to 4 litres comes out, easy way on the d3 is to pump it out via the oil cooler hoses next to pas reservoir, this way 6 to 7 litres will come out.
Incorrect oil level can have strange effects on the ZF 6 speeder, under or overfilled will cause driving issues.
Any auto gearbox specialists near you?
If you have a read of consumer legislation or do some googling, the garage might have royally screwed themselves doing your repair using your parts, as I understand it they are deemed as the experts and if they fitted the supplied parts and there is an issue, legally it is seen as their problem.
Thank you.
From the above video I flicked through the procedure I strongly feel it wasn't done correctly if it was I wouldn't have 3.5ltr of remaining transmission oil left looks like they drained approx 4 ltrs and filled it and not run it through the gears.
Yes a gearbox specialist who deals with bmw and range rovers emailed me back earlier and is coming to drive the car tomorrow whilst I'm at work. If procedure wasn't followed what symptoms would happen. High rev gear changes? Transmission fault? Surging gear changes?
Them cars use the same boxes on some model years,I think Aston Martin also used them.
The box is known for weak torque convertors after approx 100/120k.
ur so welcome , just glad the info is useful to u
indeed regarding the level and procedure is extremely important or it will cause all sorts of issues, from the gearbox not being able to select gears , vibration, slipping and even banging , which can in turn cause irretrievable damage
When there working correctly u shouldnt be able to tell when they change gear, plus being extremely smooth
that’s great you’ve got an experienced ZF mechanic , if they can give u a written report that may help get ur money back
time wise if I was replacing the filter and flushing the gear box it would take me at least 3-4 hours
When the filter is changed there’s a metal sump or plastic , the factory fitted one is plastic , have heard the metal sumps can leak ,
the new mechanic coming out may insist on only fitting the ZF lifeguard 6 ATF oil which is the oil that ZF fill the gearboxes up with at the factory , oil should be replaced around every 60,000 miles
plus when the sump is removed it’s always recommend to fit a new mechatronic sleeve along with mechatronic seal , also read that roughly 10 x litres is required to flush the gearbox
hope that all the other threads from various members here have helped
questions to ask the garage
how long did each procedure take , ie, filter / ATF oil flush
How much oil was originally drained out of the gearbox
Was the oil level checked with the engine on or off
What temperature was the oil level checked at
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TheMunster
Active Member
Haven't seen anyone ask the cars mileage yet?
Is the new oil red or gold?
How many miles have you done since the work? It could take approx 250 miles for car to settle down as that's the approx lenght of the adaption cycle.
Is there any marked difference in behaviour from when the car is stone cold to when it's up to temp?
Is the new oil red or gold?
How many miles have you done since the work? It could take approx 250 miles for car to settle down as that's the approx lenght of the adaption cycle.
Is there any marked difference in behaviour from when the car is stone cold to when it's up to temp?
hi
good point regarding the milage , that comma oil is dyed red, did hear that someone used an oil that has dexron in one of these ZF auto gearboxes and done a lot of damage , some required a rebuild, However wasn’t 100% sure of what it was like before hand but that dexron really upsets them
from other people doing a gearbox oil change the majority of them noticed an improvement straight away, from what the OP is saying it’s become undrivable
at the end of the day wouldn’t ever get my gearbox flushed , would always worry me of bits being scattered around the gearbox, plus heard if the oil is changed to then wait around 500 x miles before clearing the adaptions , some just change the oil without resetting
hopefully the ZF specialist will be able to advise the OP of what’s required
Received this from JGS 4x4
Yes, it is definitely the correct transmission sump/filter and gearbox fluid.
It could be one of several things. Have you had the car long? It could be that the previous owner added an additive such as Dr Tranny to the gearbox fluid to help with a failed or failing torque converter and changing the fluid has removed this additive.
Or the garage has not followed the correct procedure, you should have very little fluid left over, the transmissions hold 9.5 litres but it is impossible to fully drain the car without specialist equipment. We supply enough fluid to carry out a double flush, ie drain and refill, run the car and drain and refill again. The level needs to be checked with the transmission at operating temperature, on a level surface, with the engine running, the fluid should come out of the fill plug in a steady stream.
Regards James
JGS4x4 Ltd
Yes, it is definitely the correct transmission sump/filter and gearbox fluid.
It could be one of several things. Have you had the car long? It could be that the previous owner added an additive such as Dr Tranny to the gearbox fluid to help with a failed or failing torque converter and changing the fluid has removed this additive.
Or the garage has not followed the correct procedure, you should have very little fluid left over, the transmissions hold 9.5 litres but it is impossible to fully drain the car without specialist equipment. We supply enough fluid to carry out a double flush, ie drain and refill, run the car and drain and refill again. The level needs to be checked with the transmission at operating temperature, on a level surface, with the engine running, the fluid should come out of the fill plug in a steady stream.
Regards James
JGS4x4 Ltd
TheMunster
Active Member
Good point about the previous owner, they could of had 2 tubes of anti shudder in there, or even lucas stop slip.
How many miles has the car done?
How many miles has the car done?
121,000 approx. Asked JGS regarding the symptoms I'm having and this was the response
What you are describing could be caused by a low fluid level due to the level not being checked correctly. It is very important that the transmission is at operating temperature between 45-65 degrees centigrade and that the engine is running. If the level is checked without the engine running it will give a false reading, when the engine is running the transmission will take several litres up into the pump, torque converter and valve block.
What you are describing could be caused by a low fluid level due to the level not being checked correctly. It is very important that the transmission is at operating temperature between 45-65 degrees centigrade and that the engine is running. If the level is checked without the engine running it will give a false reading, when the engine is running the transmission will take several litres up into the pump, torque converter and valve block.
plus 1 if the Dr tranny has been removed plus possibly having the adaptions cleared at the same time I’d imagine the gearbox would have had a meltdown
also see JGS have quoted temp to be between 45 - 65C which as we know isn’t true
hopefully the OP will get some to look at it who knows what there doing
I have changed the oil and reset the adaptions in mine a few times, the gearbox sorts itself out pdq, and not 250 miles as said above.
Did read one guy said the world will end if you reset the adaptions, but as I am the sort of person who would press the red button that clearly said do not press, I reset them and guess what?
that’s what I also thought that it doesn’t take 250 miles but just a few as it learns again
must get round doing an oil change on mine , trouble is it’s going to be abit or a challenge trying to get underneath to gain access to the plug
did buy 10 x litres of mannol some 2 x years ago and worried if it’s got a shelf life , plus don’t think the fill plug has ever been removed , at the same time would like to replace the mechatronic sleeve and the other seal underneath the mechatronic module , did wonder about a garage doing it but to be honest would be worried in case they messed it up
Recently bought a mechanics dolly , so hoping if it may assist me enough to change it
dam, now look what you’ve done , that’s made cars drive slowly on the motorway as part of u pressing the red button and opening the matrix , lol
TheMunster
Active Member
Approx 250miles was quoted to me by Bristol transmissions as being the amount of 'history' the gearbox remembers and takes into account when adjusting for gearbox wear. When you reset adaptions this is reset to 0 so changes will happen quickly.
It constantly monitors solenoid performance and can make big changes quickly. The official procedure to rewrite the adaptions after a clear is only 10 cycles of 0-60-0.
It constantly monitors solenoid performance and can make big changes quickly. The official procedure to rewrite the adaptions after a clear is only 10 cycles of 0-60-0.
