owas

owas

Well-Known Member
Early 110 with the pipes facing down.

Everywhere says you need to remove the whole assembly, but the heater matrix in mine is really loose ,hence why its rubbed through and leaking badly (bypassed for now),

Is there anything stopping me just drilling out the rivets on top, bending back the metal and pulling it out? It doesnt feel as if there is.

Then just stick a load of foam on it so its a tight squeeze back in witn a abit protection to stop it chaffing again
 

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owas said:
Early 110 with the pipes facing down.

Everywhere says you need to remove the whole assembly, but the heater matrix in mine is really loose ,hence why its rubbed through and leaking badly (bypassed for now),

Is there anything stopping me just drilling out the rivets on top, bending back the metal and pulling it out? It doesnt feel as if there is.

Then just stick a load of foam on it so its a tight squeeze back in witn a abit protection to stop it chaffing again
Click to expand...

That's what I did to mine about two years ago and its still fine. I did pop rivet the metal back in place so it looks like it hasn't been touched.
 
In theory, if you were to be able to, you might be able to drill out all of the rivets around the top, and remove the matrix.
However, you would need access from underneath the wing to get at the motor side.
I would seriously consider removing the whole unit and doing it 'as per the book'.
 
as per @mikescuba, I managed to get mine out by drilling out the pop rivets and clamping off the pipes. from memory, I think I also had to remove the screen washer bottle but it was a an old TD (19J) engine!

you might also need some foam of some description to put around the pipes as they exit the box as mine had completely perished!
 
Ill give it a go without removing it this weekend, it looks like i only need to drill out the plate just above the matrix and bend it back out the way, just noticed my expansion bottle is leaking too so ill add that to the todo list aswell:rolleyes:
 
I think it's only 5 bolts to undo the whole thing anyway, I found camping mat was good for mounting the matrix. In fact, I completely blocked off the matrix bypass channel with a bit of mat, which has helped the heater output quite a bit.
 
It would be good to remove the heater box anyway and check the top of the footwell for hidden corrosion.
 
zeaphod said:
I think it's only 5 bolts to undo the whole thing anyway, I found camping mat was good for mounting the matrix. In fact, I completely blocked off the matrix bypass channel with a bit of mat, which has helped the heater output quite a bit.
Click to expand...

I will take the whole thing out if i find i cant get it out without removal, everything looked nice and clean when i had the wing off and ive already replaced the air intake seal, so i dont want to remove the whole thing if i dont need to.

The picture shows how i think itll come out.
 

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Recently took mine out to renovate, couple of clips, 4 bolts iirc, wing vent etc dead easy tbh; as pointed out it's likely to expose some other issues which can be addressed.
 
I’ve done both techniques. Much better to just take the whole thing out. It’s not hard and means you can make sure the whole box is resealed properly and the foam seal between box and foot well is ok (often it’s just rotten)
 
Ive removed the rivets for plate above the matrix and bent it back, the matrix is completely free in there , but i cant bend it far enough back to get it out :(
Only took 5 mins to get to that, ill tie the bonnet back and try make abit more room tomorow,

Times the issue taking the whole thing out tbh, its usualy the easy jobs that end up taking me ages :oops:
 
Came out easily with the bonnet out the way.

But i changed the expansion tank for a spare (def didnt leak) which has now also started leaking from the bottom so there must be something overpressuring the system,
Instead of using the cap that was on the spare i used the same one, probably why im now getting leaks
 
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