No it was Crank Technics. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The way they fit seems very odd - no woodruff key, flange on pulley not as long as the recess in the crankshaft and totally reliant on the bolt to stop it turning. I suppose I am not missing a spacer collar or something?? Belts appear to run in line ok.

The way the crank fits, it looks like I could run it without the pulley to confirm all is quiet?? The crank seems to penetrate the oil seal completely to the outside. If anyone has a known good pulley - could they confirm if it clunks when tapped against a block of wood on the outside rim?!!! The pulley looks perfect with no play in between the layers, but it knocks like a machine gun, even with no belts fitted.
 
andyfreelandy said:
No it was Crank Technics. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Freelander-2-0-Diesel-TD4-Crank-shaft-pulley-torsion-vibration-damper/271756606088?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The way they fit seems very odd - no woodruff key, flange on pulley not as long as the recess in the crankshaft and totally reliant on the bolt to stop it turning. I suppose I am not missing a spacer collar or something?? Belts appear to run in line ok.

The way the crank fits, it looks like I could run it without the pulley to confirm all is quiet?? The crank seems to penetrate the oil seal completely to the outside. If anyone has a known good pulley - could they confirm if it clunks when tapped against a block of wood on the outside rim?!!! The pulley looks perfect with no play in between the layers, but it knocks like a machine gun, even with no belts fitted.
Click to expand...
A brief run without the pulley should be OK, I think.

I doubt there should be any clunking at all.
 
Mine was this Crank technics one too..no woodruff key but bolt holds it fine and I presume will only hold it tighter in time as that's the way the crank turns..ie tightens the bolt which is a good thing as I could not tighten it by hand enough as kept turning the engine over...can't comment on the banging on wood senario I just popped it on and my problems solved..
 
Thanks for all the input and research. Another 1/2 day and some conclusions, but fault not resolved. Decided to remove new pulley, refit washer and bolt (to prevent timing pulley moving (in case it did !) and run engine. All quiet, although, as mentioned, engine doesn't sound well at present and another fault or fault is present. This resulted in quiet. While doing this noticed the attached. Pulley had been striking the casting marks on the crank cover. 1531143347693[1].jpg So I thinks, this could be significant, is it crank end float or bearing?? No end float having levered it all ways. Removed casting marks with a power sander almost in desperation. Still knocking. Just to confirm that the pulley is, in effect, the mouthpiece for the fault rather than the cause itself, I substituted another known good pulley from my other TD4. Same noise, knocking at about 3,000 rpm and again on it's down run to idle.

I'm now thinking big ends or crank bearings being amplified by the pulley. The pulley, after all, is 2 concentric sections with flanges running very close to each other, if it were moved laterally it would tap I think.

Put car back together in despair. Think it is new engine time. I think I have eliminated the timing chain as all is quiet without the pulley. All pulleys look good and solid. Most complex fault I've ever had to date !!!

Car has done about 157k and I have little history until I bought it at 80k from when it has been loved and maintained !

Anyone want to confirm the worst or set me on another challenge to try out - very happy to try things as a replacement very low mileage TD4 or V6 looks the next move.
 
And the crank cover photo.........1531137868778[1].jpgAlso - made this to stop spanner slipping with the many times I have put the belt on and off it was invaluable !1531138078429[1].jpg
 
So couldn't get to the bottom of this annoying noise causing the crank pulley to rattle, tried 2 new pulleys and a known good one from another car.

Driving today, car going well, rattling on hills, going down hill, lost engine (power steering and brake servo too), managed to control car and cruise to roadside layby. Engine cranked, would fire and run, stopped abruptly when put into drive - no power. Clanking when it stopped and was stopping dead when it did.

Called friendly AA guy, he thinks injector flood and hydraulic lock in one or more cylinders. Back to injectors again !!!!

Will be putting in another pair tomorrow to replace the ones not serviced - let's hope - noise not good, but then stopping engine by jamming piston is not the best way to stop it !!! Hope noise is purely stress at time of stopping.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Clanking when it stopped and was stopping dead when it did.

Called friendly AA guy, he thinks injector flood and hydraulic lock in one or more cylinders. Back to injectors again !!!!
Click to expand...

Sounds like the crank has failed. I think I'd be dropping the sump for a look.
 
Blimey. I thought P38's were a real PITA. This sounds like the vehicle from hell sent to test a mans sanity and endurance.
 
Just before pulling sump, I went through the injectors again, one (cleaned and tested in the last few weeks) was black with tar. Changed this for another known good one. Tried car - same result, runs for a few minutes and then 'bang' locks and stops. It is hard to tell if it is fuel lock or crank failure. I isolated the fuel feed to each injector in turn and hoped it may run on three, but no change. Cause of tar on injectors anyone?? How to test crank without stripping engine anyone??

Car looks at the end of the road - just been out and bought a V6 - MOT failure on brakes - must be easier !!
Thinking, maybe worth buying up some of these MOT failures and either getting them back on the road or breaking for parts - what does everyone think?? Would it be worthwhile on a small scale to serve current owners and preserve the massive waste of scrapping and crushing vehicles needing work or providing parts.

I picked up a TD4 which someone had stripped out to repair clutch and then left it when they worked out the cost. I will, in time, refurb the engine and pop it into mine. Meanwhile some fun in the V6 until I run our of petrol money !!!!!!!
 
the cause of tar on the injectors is that injector is leaking and needs cleaning and a new copper seal or it could be leaking from the top I had it many years ago also
 
Thanks, sadly that is probs the least of the TD4 worries then, the bag of nails and locking up when cranking is terminal I think. I will post what it failed of when I find out, it started as simple 'pinking' type noise that turned out to be a good pulley rattling due to crank imbalance - I am expecting a broken bearing or crank or worse when I drop the sump. Any comments on my 'save a Freelander' plan / parts etc.... Would it fly and help owners as the vehicles get older and worth less, buying new spares is not going to be viable for many......................
 
I love mine so much I have just spent £2500 at least I know this car I know people who have gone and brought brand new and have problems
 
Buying up old freelanders and stripping for parts to sell on to owners is great for us owners but you'd need a fair bit of storage space to keep them in, and an understanding wife.

Col
 
Thanks - I've just bought a small Farm with a 20 metre square barn ! :)

The wife will come round to the idea !
Started a new thread to cover the repair of the V6 and my broken TD4 as it may be of some interest and, of course, I'll need lots of advice and support - I've wrapped up all the loose ends covering the story to date and a new one kicks off tonight ! Called it TD4 & V6 Rebuild Projects.
 
Hi Andy

i think i have just the same symptoms as you.

Was it definately ther crank pulley that was dead ??

Was the replacement one good quality ???

thanks

JOhn
 
thanks Andy - I got lucky - it was just the plastic splash guard rubbing against the crank pulley !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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